Zeke here...read my sig: I've got a similar truck to yours.
Anyways, here's what your mechanic should check. First off, check to see that the filters are clean and not clogged. Second, make sure the fuel pump is working, when the key is turned on. If those two things are okay, you have one side of what I call the Running Triangle. Looks kind of like this: Fuel + Air + Spark = Running Vehicle
Now, if the Fuel part is okay, and your air is okay (most of the time, the plumbing and/or sensors are fine for air flow, namely your Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor and your Mass Air Pressure (MAP) sensor), the final thing you need to check for is spark.
With a 1992, like I have, you have solid state coil packs on the intake manifold that are grounded to the manifold (your spark plug wires connect here). If you follow the one wire that DOES NOT go to a plug, it should lead you to your Primary Ignition Coil. Take it off and, if you can, have it tested for resistance. If the reading does not match spec, replace it. Next, take your coil packs for your cylinders and do the same. Once again, if one doesn't test out, replace it; the lucky thing is, if you get new coil packs, you'll get both, so no big deal there. Next, your wires and plugs. Most of the time, you can tell from the insulation if your wires need replaced; if in doubt, do so. Your plugs, however, will tell you everything you need to know about what's happening in your cylinders. If you have a Hayne's manual, there are pictures in the back of the different conditions that a plug can have, and most likely causes. If any plugs need to be replaced, do so.
Also, one final note: Have your mechanic check and verify your relays underhood. If any of them related to your computer system have malfunctioned, it could also be a reason for your no-start condition.
Hope this information helps.
Billie, my "sparkly" blue 1992 Ranger
SPECS: 2.3 I4; Rebuilt motor at 194,263 miles; straightened driveshaft when engine was rebuilt
FIRST MODS: 2" suspension lift and rear disc brake conversion