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  #16  
Old 03-06-2011, 06:11 PM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

the gauge comes up and a lil after the first bar for temp. but as soon as i turned on the fan it drops below the first line. i always figured just at that line was normal op. temp. also the air temp will get hot then like said as soon as i turn on the heater fan it cools down to where u might as well almost have the windows open.

i kno for sure i put the t-stat in correctly i made sure of it. i'v done t-stats in many vehicles before this ranger. i hope it not defective its a PITA to replace on the 2.3l

when i can get into the garage again i'm gonna dig under the dash and see if the vaccum line got somehow disconnected.

how can i check to see if the blend door is broke?
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1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

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  #17  
Old 03-06-2011, 06:20 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: heater question

You're describing a pump or t-stat problem. Normal temp reading is the gauge in the MIDDLE.
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  #18  
Old 03-06-2011, 06:29 PM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

yea way down there it hardly ever goes up. the t-stat house get hot and pressurized.

do u think its the pump then?

----------

also could the temp sensor be bad?

----------

also could the temp sensor be bad?
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1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

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  #19  
Old 03-06-2011, 06:32 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: heater question

If the pump is failing, it will inadequately circulate coolant. Some parts get hot. Some parts get nothing. This includes the heater since it is the highest point. This includes the sensor.
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2011, 06:46 PM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

out of ur opinon what all should i replace?

the pump is cheap

what about the fan clutch?

and the sensor should i change that too just to be safe? or wait to see if the pump is the problem

----------

out of ur opinon what all should i replace?

the pump is cheap

what about the fan clutch?

and the sensor should i change that too just to be safe? or wait to see if the pump is the problem
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Colin S. AGE: 18
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

https://www.facebook.com/colinshriver

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...anger-4x4.html
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  #21  
Old 03-06-2011, 08:56 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: heater question

The fan is not the problem. A properly working pump and thermostat will maintain operating temperature with the fan blasting, going 80mph, with it -20 outside. Start with the pump. If its stock, it's quite old and served its time. I bet you'll find the impeller is rotted out to nothing.
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How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
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How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide
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  #22  
Old 03-07-2011, 05:23 AM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

thanks fireranger and every one else. looks like i kno my next project after i get the busted window fixed lol
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Colin S. AGE: 18
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

https://www.facebook.com/colinshriver

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...anger-4x4.html
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  #23  
Old 03-07-2011, 03:41 PM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

here is a picture of where the gauge goes to also this is going 70mph in fifth gear and was going at that rate for about 45 min on the highwayish

also at idle it does not seem to move anywhere but down

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Colin S. AGE: 18
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

https://www.facebook.com/colinshriver

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...anger-4x4.html
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  #24  
Old 03-07-2011, 04:04 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: heater question

Yup. See the word "Normal". The needle should be in it. Still either a bad pump or bad t-stat.
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How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2011, 05:36 PM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

thanks man just replaced my window time to do the pump sometime this week
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Colin S. AGE: 18
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

https://www.facebook.com/colinshriver

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...anger-4x4.html
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  #26  
Old 03-07-2011, 05:52 PM
pooleo pooleo is offline
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Default Re: heater question

I dont think the pump is the problem, there mechanical and simple. If the belt is grabbing the pulley, then its turning the fins inside. Unless the fins are completely worn flat. Usually the bearings will fail in the water pump, cause it to loose coolant. When the bearing goes out, it will leak.

Even if your t-stat is bad, eventually it will warm up, say its staying open, this would just take longer to heat up, but it will get hot. The function of the t-stat is to stay closed until the motor reaches 190*, then the t-stat pops open, allowing it to cool the motor.

As far as the gauge goes, it could be a faulty gauge that is not sending the correct temp. This is very common and I personally have seen it numerous times. You say you get heat until you turn on the blower, well, if you have good heat then it is obvious that your temp is at least around 160 but the gauge is reading about 70. I would not trust the gauge.

How about your alt. is it charging at full? maybe the tensioner is going bad and the belt is not grabbing the water pump causing it to slip and turn improperly...? maybe your belt is just bad causing this.

I think this is cold-weather related as you said it only does this in 20- temps. If it did this at all air temps then I would say something mechanical.
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  #27  
Old 03-07-2011, 06:02 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: heater question

Jason, first, please don't freak out. I am not trying to be a dick despite what you may think/assume. I am not posting this to attack you. I am not posting this because it is you. I am posting this because it is correct information regardless of who posted the wrong information. Please don't read more into it than that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo View Post
I dont think the pump is the problem, there mechanical and simple. If the belt is grabbing the pulley, then its turning the fins inside. Unless the fins are completely worn flat. Usually the bearings will fail in the water pump, cause it to loose coolant. When the bearing goes out, it will leak.
Actually the usual pump failure is the impeller rotting out and being totally flat. That's what I've been saying. Exactly these symptoms have been caused by this problem many times on here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo View Post
Even if your t-stat is bad, eventually it will warm up, say its staying open, this would just take longer to heat up, but it will get hot. The function of the t-stat is to stay closed until the motor reaches 190*, then the t-stat pops open, allowing it to cool the motor.
Actually that's not how it works. The t-stat opens and closes (fully or partially) regularly while the engine is running. It does NOT just stay open. The cooling rate in the radiator varies based on airspeed, air temperature, density, humidity, etc. The t-stat does whatever it has to do to maintain ~190 and that involves a lot more than just opening and staying open. It varies it's state to accomplish it's task.

With the t-stat stuck open, the engine will not just warm up slower. It will not warm up at all. Even on a hot summer day, it will never reach operating temperature. The T-stat has to regulate flow through the radiator to regulate the temperature.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo View Post
As far as the gauge goes, it could be a faulty gauge that is not sending the correct temp. This is very common and I personally have seen it numerous times. You say you get heat until you turn on the blower, well, if you have good heat then it is obvious that your temp is at least around 160 but the gauge is reading about 70. I would not trust the gauge.
Its actually very common to have some heat until you turn on a fan or start driving. Once you do that, you're removing what little heat that simple convection and conduction has allowed to be there. The gauge is indicating exactly what he is describing and nothing is indicating otherwise. It's a stuck stat or bad pump. The engine isn't warming up. I'd put money on that gauge working just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo View Post
How about your alt. is it charging at full? maybe the tensioner is going bad and the belt is not grabbing the water pump causing it to slip and turn properly...? maybe your belt is just bad causing this.
Pretty unlikely I think. The belt slipping like that would be VERY obvious and at this point it would probably have shredded.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pooleo View Post
I think this is cold-weather related as you said it only does this in 20- temps. If it did this at all air temps then I would say something mechanical.
Its not the weather. With a working t-stat and water pump, our trucks can maintain operating temperature just fine in the extreme negatives. 20's and 30's is not even cold! I guarantee you it does the same thing in all temperatures. Nobody ever notices in warm weather because we don't use the heat. That's why everyone finds these pump and stat problems in the winter.
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How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
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Last edited by FireRanger; 03-07-2011 at 06:18 PM.
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  #28  
Old 03-07-2011, 08:09 PM
pooleo pooleo is offline
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Default Re: heater question

^^^Dont worry now, I was not in any way trying to attack you. Just stating my thoughts on problem. As I said before we agree to disagree. Thats that, and is in the past.
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  #29  
Old 03-07-2011, 08:26 PM
FireRanger FireRanger is offline
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Default Re: heater question

OK good. I know you weren't. I have no desire to argue either.
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How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2011, 04:55 AM
ColinS ColinS is offline
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Default Re: heater question

thnks you two. my truck sat for 3 yrs before i bought it off the old man next door becaue he went senile and could not drive. and itt had the worst coolant in it ever. when i did the flush and cleaning a whole bunch or rust and some chunks came out with the water.

and yesterday it got up to 45 and that is when that picture was takin and i noticed the other week when it got to 60 it did the exactly the same thing.

my belt is fine i checked it it is real tight and i cant hear it slipping.

I think i'm gonna do a mix of what both you say.

i'm gonna replace the WP and replace the temp sensor for safe being.

today i'm doing the carbboard thing just to see if that helps.

thanks again for all the input i really do apprciate it
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Colin S. AGE: 18
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 reg. cab 4.0l 5spd, 2" SL , Summit Nomads 15x8, 30x9.5x15 Trail Digger M/T's, cab lights, spray in bed liner, custom tube bumper,

1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3l 5spd ext. cab. the loaner truck

1987 Camaro z28 383 to much to list

https://www.facebook.com/colinshriver

http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...anger-4x4.html
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