cold air intake - Page 10

smsranger · #**136** 12-02-2009, 08:58 PM

o and dam...u have to get pics up of those cars..thats alsome. 270 whp. thats crazy for a camry..arnt they like 125 stock? not sure just ballparking it.

Jay FX4 · #**137** 12-02-2009, 09:50 PM

He did post a pic of the Camry. Not sure what stock HP for the V6 is, but I'd like to think it's more than 125....

twinjetguy · #**138** 12-03-2009, 09:53 AM

I think my 2001 V6 Camry was rated at 179 at the crankshaft, so figure around 150 at the tires. The guys that are getting 270hp to the ground are using auto transmission. If you have the 5 speed manual, you can get even more power down to the ground. The guy who helped with mind had his dynoed at over 320 to the tires! The best part is even with all that work, it's still a completely reliable Toyota.

With mine putting a ball park of 210 to the wheels, it's suprisingly fast and smooth. You don't realize how fast you're going until you look at the speedo.

smsranger · #**139** 12-04-2009, 04:33 PM

dam...do u remember were u posted pictures so i can go look at them?

Jay FX4 · #**140** 12-04-2009, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smsranger

dam...do u remember were u posted pictures so i can go look at them?

If you're talking about the Camry, page 13 of this thread. Post #128.

Clem · #**141** 12-05-2009, 08:24 AM

Got this from another forum for anyone who might be interested:

A true CAI for 01+ 2.3L....a little something I wrote up.
For those of you who want a true Cold Air Intake for you duratec 2.3L. Basically what I did was was flip the intake tube to the other side of the engine. You need to have a K&N cone filter or one similar for this to work. Before starting this, make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable.

Here's the steps:

1. Take off the plastic resonator near the throttle body. It's there to help keep the intake quiet...who wants that. You'll have a hole in the intake tube where it was attached, for some reason some models had two connections to the resonator...in that case you'll have two holes. To patch these holes I used something called a "Galvanized pipe plug" they sell them at Lowes in the plumbing supplies. I used the 2" plug...all it is is a piece of rubber between two round metal plates with a bolt through the center...when you tighten the bolt the plates squeeze the rubber and it expands. I had to put a little oil on the plug to squeeze it in the hole..you gotta work it in there. Here's what the resonator looks like.

2. Next we have to relocate the powersteering res. After you remove the plastic resonator you will notice that it was mounted to an aluminum bracket...this bracket is where the PS Res. will be moved to. All the holes on the bracket line up perfectly with the PS Res, the mounting holes and the threads for the bolts are the same. Remove the PS Res. from the black bracket that it is on and move it to the old Resonator location...you just reuse the bolts that were holding it on. I think the aluminum bracket was meant to be a PS Res. mount originally because it fits perfectly.

3.Next, loosen the hose clamp that holds the intake tube to the throttle body and also unplug the breather hose from the intake tube. Then unplug the MAF harness. Now that that is done just flip the intake tube to the other side of the engine bay (over by the battery) and bend the tube at a 90 degree angle and stick it down by the frame. Now plug the MAF harness back in and make sure you zip tie the MAF wires to the intake to keep them away from the fan and belt. In order for the breather hose to reach you will need about 12-18" of vacuum line to extend it, you could also use some rubber tubing from lowes.

4.Now retighten the clamp that holds the intake to the TB and make sure everything is connected correctly. Check all the bolts and make sure they're not loose. ie: the PS Res. bolts. Give everything a good look over and tidy up...reconnect the battery cable and YOU'RE DONE!!!

This is NOT my write up, it came from another gorum.

Ray

CURTS04 · #**142** 12-05-2009, 09:22 AM

ok i havent read through the hole thing but a CAI is a COLD AIR INTAKE... that means it gets fresh cooler air from outside the engine bay. usually it is a tube that goes down behind the bumper and gets clean air. a intake or intake mod that just elimates the box is know as a short ram intake. it is worse than what we have now. the box we have now acts as a heat shield. if your not going to get a true COLD AIR INTAKE. you are sucking hot air from the engine bay.

smsranger · #**143** 12-05-2009, 09:25 PM

ok so once again this helps all the newer guys. but wat about the older ones?

Clem · #**144** 12-06-2009, 07:52 AM

CURTS04: you are right, you didn't read the whole thing. Would you have understood what the man did if you had?

If you can't buy what you want for a CAI, I guess you will need to buy a newer truck.
I have an 86 B2 that now has a 4.0 OHV in it, you can't buy a factory made CAI for it, but it has one, home built, looks like $hit, but is functional. Total cost, less the cone filter, about $35 (priced the parts 6 months ago at Lowes). I built the one for my B2 in the early 90's, ran it for over 100000 miles, no problem. Before you complain about it not being a 4 cylinder, who cares, they all do the same thing.
My best suggestion to everyone who wants a CAI, and can't buy a factory built, disregard the naysayers who are telling you they don't do this or that, they don't know, because they haven't installed one and are relying on what others have told them, they do help, maybe not a lot, but make up your own mind. The cost of building your own is negligible, think for yourselves and build something that is functional. You can get all the parts from an auto parts or hardware store. Think about where to install it to keep it away from as much heat as possible, it doesn't have to be installed where your OEM is, you are building it, put it where you think it will do the most good. I.E., the opposite side of the engine compartment, down low, run a large hose to it, what ever it takes, use your imagination. That is what the design engineers did when they drew up the first one.
Second suggestion, if you construct a CAI of your own, bigger is better, build it as large as you can get away with, it makes no difference whether the engine won't draw all the air in that is available, but remember that the more volume that is moved threw the intake, the cooler the charge of air will be at most times.
Look at the picture, the 3"x4"x4" down spout adapter mounts to the radiator support behind a hole, the 4" duct hose runs along the top of the frame rail, the Spee-D-Basin mounts to the inner fender well, the black tube is stock part from the engine, I will change that to a smooth hose or metal tube when I find one.
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Now all those who don't like what I say or how I say it, complain away.
This thread has been running for 2+ months, I have posted to it, read almost all other posts, and no one seems to want to help with ideas on how to construct your own, just whether it is a waste of time, money , doesn't do any good, yada, yada, yada.
To those who are in the later category, go post where you may do some good.
Be part of the solution, not part of the problem. 4 cylinders need what ever help they can get, whether it be 1 or 2 HP makes no difference, it come down to product availability for most of these guys with older truck. If you have a newer one, good, go buy a kit for it, if you have an older truck, build your own, that is about the only way you are going to get what you desire.

Ray

Jay FX4 · #**145** 12-06-2009, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clem

disregard the naysayers who are telling you they don't do this or that, they don't know, because they haven't installed one and are relying on what others have told them

Disregard the naysayers who call people naysayers based on nothing. Claiming to know what someone does or doesn't know makes you guilty of the speculation you accuse others of.

EDIT: Just to clarify, I'm neither agreeing nor disagreeing with you on your comments directly related to CAI's. Personally, when I say things it's based on first hand experience, and when I speak of things I've simply read on forums, I point that out.
All I'm saying is there's no way for you to know what people have actually done themselves or not.

Clem · #**146** 12-06-2009, 11:50 AM

Then you understand what I stated.

Ray

whippersnapper02 · #**147** 12-06-2009, 11:58 AM

15 pages long? Damn. So I had a "cold" air intake. It was crap. I got better throttle response or so I think and maybe I picked up a horsepower or two but I couldn't feel it. I got rid of the intake because it wasn't really a cold air. The K&N FIPK had some crappy little heat shield that didn't block anything. So during stop and go traffic I lost noticeable power because it was sucking up a bunch of hot air.

In the end though if you think you will get major gains from just an intake then you are thinking like a ricer. If you really want an intake get it as a last mod right before you tube for everything. Also don't just get a cone filter at the end of a pipe.

Mayguy · #**148** 12-07-2009, 10:12 AM

Well, I ran a whole tank on the "mod" and results showed no improvement, matter of fact worse.

I had 26mpg on a tank, made this mod a month ago and ran a whole tank and just filled it up today and got 24mpg. No changes in my driving, a little more highway mileage (55-60mph) on this tank.

Just got done putting the stuff back on and see how it goes for the next tank. I did keep the K & N filter in place.

Buddythetruck · #**149** 12-07-2009, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mayguy

Well, I ran a whole tank on the "mod" and results showed no improvement, matter of fact worse.

I had 26mpg on a tank, made this mod a month ago and ran a whole tank and just filled it up today and got 24mpg. No changes in my driving, a little more highway mileage (55-60mph) on this tank.

Just got done putting the stuff back on and see how it goes for the next tank. I did keep the K & N filter in place.

Cold weather = terrible gas mileage

Mayguy · #**150** 12-07-2009, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buddythetruck

Cold weather = terrible gas mileage

Temps were warmer for Nov than Oct. But yeah when it's down to 0˚ or colder, it does kill on the mileage.