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  #1  
Old 09-16-2009, 05:08 PM
RangerFixer RangerFixer is offline
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Question Cranks... But Won't Start

Hey guys, I'm new on here but I've been working on this Ranger for a few years now. Y'all looked like the best site for help.

Issue: Pulled into my apartment parking space, truck shook violently and shut off. Felt like it ran out of fuel, but I've never done that before and the fuel gauge was showing at least an 1/8 of a tank and no light on. I've yet to have a fuel light issue.

I added a gallon of gas thinking that it was just low and I had a gauge problem, but the truck still won't start. Turning the key gets a very healthy cranking sound with the belts spinning and everything, but the engine just will not fire up. I get the idea that there's just no fuel coming in to light things up.

I did notice that there is quite a bit of movement in the motor when its cranking, but thats probably an unrelated problem with a motor mount.

My plan of action at the moment is to start simple. I'm going to replace the fuel filter [thanks to this guide!] first, then maybe take a stab at replacing the spark plug wires. I worry it could be the fuel pump, but obviously I want to try other options first. I did follow the instructions for the fuel pump relay reset, but it didn't make a difference.

I'd imagine someone else has had a similar issue (and there's a good chance someone has written about it on here... I couldn't find it though) so if you've got any tips or directions to head, let me know.

And of course, let me know if you need any more information.
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2009, 06:11 PM
98blownranger 98blownranger is offline
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do you have fuel pressure? my quess is the pump went bad
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2009, 06:27 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Hoosier huh, Me 2.
Hmm, shaking violently, First thing I would do is manually align the timing marks and ensure it did not jump time. Then I would pull the plug wires one at a time and have someone turn the car over checking for spark. Hopefully you understand how to do this. . . otherwise it can be a shocking experience. If you have good spark then I would use some starter fluid and spray it in the intake hose(generally you want to use the little red straw and loosen the hose to the MAF on the motor side ensuring you are bypassing the MAF, but also make sure you snug the hose down on the straw) See if it'll try and start. If it does, then you possibly have water in your fuel and it'll be a bear to start alone as the water can block the injectors individually from getting fuel causing violent reactions in a 4banger, generally if it is a failure you'll get a bit more controlled reaction evenly across the cylinders and typically it'll start and run, just have an all out lack of power. But with this kind of reaction I recommend doing the things I mentioned in that order to avoid screwing the pooch. For reference I do not believe it is water in the fuel as typically it should start back up and it can either immediately or after a second or two it'll just bounce all over the place and tend to die.

A-typically a 4banger in time will not be all over the place even with a bad mount if it is in time and hitting right.
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Last edited by 02'4.04x4; 09-16-2009 at 06:30 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-16-2009, 06:53 PM
RangerFixer RangerFixer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98blownranger View Post
do you have fuel pressure? my quess is the pump went bad
What's the best/easiest way to check for pressure?

Also, you both seem to have ruled out the fuel filter. Would I be spinning my wheels there?
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  #5  
Old 09-16-2009, 07:03 PM
Tech Tech is offline
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02'4.04x4 is that honestly the first thing you would do??

the first thing that I would do is check the shrader valve on the fuel rail and see is fuel even comes out.. second I would see about spark after that there is many other things to check but go for the basics first..

suck bang blow
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  #6  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:05 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Yes, it is, "shaking violently", being the call for that.
yes he can, check the valve but even with a failing pump, there is some pressure and it is a tough call for a novice. I am not familiar with whether or not the 2.3 is an interference motor. It is a simple enough "to do" and can save an awful mistake.
His discription of the way it died did not call out for lack of fuel in a fuel injected car.
and the fact that it will not start puts it out even further. From cranking freely, and having excess movement, I cannot see any reason why a inline motor in time with everything right except for fuel would move in any excess at all. . . . There are 101 things he can check, but in the case of shook violently, it is always best to start with the basics, especially if there is the possibility of it cranking with starter fluid and catching enough to jump again and bend a valve or worse. IMHO

Sure filter could be an issue, but it is not likely(at all) that it would cause this degree of failure in an 01.
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White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

Last edited by 02'4.04x4; 09-16-2009 at 08:09 PM.
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  #7  
Old 09-16-2009, 08:36 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Here's a thought, if there is someone on here who has a different opinion, that they believe is better, why don't they offer it to the guy who's in trouble, instead of just questioning my methodology. I would go so far as to say I could diagnose and have his truck running within 10 minutes, less needing a part replaced. . . . . if I could have it in front of me.
I suppose he could also take it to a stealership and have it run for codes and $300 later get his truck back. . . . .
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Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come
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  #8  
Old 09-16-2009, 09:03 PM
RangerFixer RangerFixer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02'4.04x4 View Post
Here's a thought, if there is someone on here who has a different opinion, that they believe is better, why don't they offer it to the guy who's in trouble, instead of just questioning my methodology. I would go so far as to say I could diagnose and have his truck running within 10 minutes, less needing a part replaced. . . . . if I could have it in front of me.
I suppose he could also take it to a stealership and have it run for codes and $300 later get his truck back. . . . .
Hey man, thanks for the help. Don't get all worried about someone asking questions. What your suggesting is a little bit further into the process of troubleshooting, I'd say. There's nothing wrong with that, but I think its a possibility that I can look at a couple of other things before I start messing with timing and the like.

Plan of action right now is to 1) Listen for fuel pump to run and 2) Check Schrader valve for pressure.

I'll update from there. Until then, if you've got an idea, it's much appreciated. I've got a girlfriend to see this weekend and 2 hours thumbing it won't be too much fun.

Thanks.
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  #9  
Old 09-16-2009, 10:50 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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The reason for checking the timing is good is to ensure you do not possibly hurt the motor. If in fact it did jump time 1 attempt could cost a lot of money. It should'nt take but a couple of minutes to check the marks. You know I think stress from company is getting to me lately.
Tech, sorry for being a rooster previously, its just with shaking bit I would recommend checking the timing to anyone on here as I do not know their skill level, and with that their judgement with something like this. There are certain cues that can spell trouble and I am just trying to help out like they were a friend of mine. I am not sure why but I have been touchy lately.
Peace.
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Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

Last edited by 02'4.04x4; 09-17-2009 at 12:06 AM.
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  #10  
Old 09-17-2009, 07:25 AM
RangerFixer RangerFixer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02'4.04x4 View Post
The reason for checking the timing is good is to ensure you do not possibly hurt the motor. If in fact it did jump time 1 attempt could cost a lot of money. It should'nt take but a couple of minutes to check the marks.
No worries, man.

I was under the impression checking the timing wasn't too easy. I can toss that in the list of to-dos if you can give a quick explanation on the steps to take.

Thanks.
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  #11  
Old 09-17-2009, 08:37 AM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Hmm, someone on here might know more specific details but basically you need to be able to see the cam sprocket you'll se a little triangle pointing out from the center to the edge of it and possibly a dimple on the lip at that point, it lines up with a marked point on the inner timing cover plate(remover outer cover to see) you can either use a socket to manually turn the crank or put a manual vehicle into 2nd and nudge it with your knees to align the marks if they check you are good, if not, you know.
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Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:10 AM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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WAIT! Before spending money and going to a staelership and checking timing, look at the simplest and most common cause. Fuel pumpm inertia switch.

located on the passenger side firewall, there's a little switch with a push button plunger. Push the plunger in to reset it. This switch is designed to kill the fuel pump in the case of an accident, but has been know to randomly trigger at the most inopportune times.

if just resetting it doesn't fix the problem, have someone hold the button in while you try to start it. If that works, you need a new switch.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2009, 09:42 AM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Hey Johnny B, the whole Stealer thing was said a little on the sarcastic/stupid side.
I was having a bad day and pointed out the all the more than obvious things one could check. . . . .
The fun part here is figuring why his truck shook out.
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Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:23 AM
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I was not busting balls.. I was just getting to the easy stuff first... that most people can do
most people will not wanna get into timing concerns.
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  #15  
Old 09-17-2009, 01:59 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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I understand.
That being said I spoke with a friend today, he said it is possible the the filterwas clogged badly and that the straw that broke the camel's back, hit home. But he said "it is more likely that you broke the rubberband."(timing belt) Noted from the died out shaking badly.
He also noted that the engine would turn over rapidly and unbalanced in said case.
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Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

Last edited by 02'4.04x4; 09-17-2009 at 02:23 PM.
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