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  #16  
Old 09-18-2009, 12:39 PM
RangerFixer RangerFixer is offline
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Hey guys, just wanted to post an update.

Last night, we replaced the fuel filter, and while it was dirty, it still allowed fuel through. We checked for ignition and each cylinder was getting a spark. A look with a flashlight through the oil filler cap while the engine was attempting to be cranked revealed movement -- indicating the timing belt was working.

Finally, we checked the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and the pressure was quite low. In fact, with the ignition on the ON position [which should start the fuel pump] there was no new pressure coming out of the valve and fuel stopped coming from it all together.

3 gallons of fuel have been added to the truck, as well, so the tank isn't dry.

We've come to the conclusion that it is in fact a bad fuel pump due to the lack of pressure and no noise coming from inside the gas tank with ignition in the ON position. I had my ear right on the plastic of the tank and couldn't hear an electric hum or any signs of life from the tank.

The plan now is to remove the truck bed and replace the fuel pump with a brand new Bosch pump. I was told the AirTex brand, while cheaper, is highly unreliable.

Does this make sense to everyone?
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  #17  
Old 09-19-2009, 05:49 AM
98blownranger 98blownranger is offline
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if the timing chain broke it acts like you just turned off the key, a shack or sputter is usually it getting fuel and losing pressure causing it it miss a few times before you loss full fuel pressure.

you can press the pin in on the Schroeder valve to see if you have pressure, free and easy way to check,, be carefull some fuel may spray out. you will also hear the fuel pump turn on if you know what to listen for
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  #18  
Old 09-21-2009, 12:41 AM
Bird76Mojo Bird76Mojo is offline
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Before you replace that fuel pump, check this:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnbaum13 View Post
WAIT! Before spending money and going to a staelership and checking timing, look at the simplest and most common cause. Fuel pumpm inertia switch.

located on the passenger side firewall, there's a little switch with a push button plunger. Push the plunger in to reset it. This switch is designed to kill the fuel pump in the case of an accident, but has been know to randomly trigger at the most inopportune times.

if just resetting it doesn't fix the problem, have someone hold the button in while you try to start it. If that works, you need a new switch.
GB
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  #19  
Old 09-21-2009, 07:01 AM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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Did you check the Inertia switch?
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  #20  
Old 09-21-2009, 07:07 AM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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x2 Bird and Johnnie
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  #21  
Old 09-21-2009, 10:12 PM
RangerFixer RangerFixer is offline
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I flipped the inertia switch twice to see if it made a difference. No change.

Also, when we got the bed off and we're attempting to change the fuel pump, I used a 12 volt test light and was able to confirm that power was coming to the pump and it simply would not operate.

We had the new pump ready to go until we took the old one out and realized the pump model number we had ordered was correct, but the one that came in the box wasn't.

So... two more days and we'll have a new pump on the Ranger and everything should be good to go.

I must say that changing the pump with the bed off is really a breeze. It's got to be much easier than trying to drop the tank.
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  #22  
Old 09-24-2011, 02:00 PM
bobberjohn bobberjohn is offline
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Default Re: Cranks... But Won't Start

My 98 ranger w/4.0 has starting problems also but will push start right away. What gives?
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  #23  
Old 09-26-2011, 06:44 PM
MikeyRanger MikeyRanger is offline
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Default Re: Cranks... But Won't Start

Let me know if it was the pump. I am having a similar issue
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  #24  
Old 09-28-2011, 01:48 AM
SneakyBandit SneakyBandit is offline
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Default Re: Cranks... But Won't Start

I am having the same type of issue, can you give a run down of all you did in one paragraph for us n00bs. ty

please let us know of your results.
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fuel filter, fuel pump, won't start

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