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  #1  
Old 08-15-2009, 03:40 PM
david david is offline
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Default truck stutters and jumps when coasting

Hi folks,

my 86 2.3L ranger has an issue... When I'm ambleing down the street and I'm not accelerating much or at all sometimes (about 50%) the truck will start to stutter and jump as if its not getting fuel or running out of gas or something... I dunno.

it seems to fix itself when I depress the clutch and release it again. it'll start doing it again within a few minutes of coasting or mild acceleration.

however,
when I'm accelerating at any ferocity above mild it drives just fine, and the engine runs peachy when the clutch is depressed always.

any clues?
could it be the fuel pump? could it be the plugs and wires? could it be a timing issue? could it be the clutch? the clutch was replaced not too mong before I bought it and the in-tank fuel pump was replaced a short while ago as well.
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2009, 05:03 PM
david david is offline
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ok so a friend of mine suggested it was a timing issue. I am going to try and check that out soon as I get some free time.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2009, 05:37 PM
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Does it idle just fine?
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:44 PM
david david is offline
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yes it seems to idle fine. does that eliminate timing?
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2009, 05:53 PM
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Ya if it will sit and idle fine

My sisters 98 mystique had a timing belt slipping. When you were at a dead stop and floored it up to 30mph it would bog down and have nothing. Once it got going fast enough drove just fine.

Only other time it would do it is if u hit between 20mph and 30 mph seemed to be the lucky numbers. It finally came off after a month
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Old 08-17-2009, 05:56 PM
kinda_fellin kinda_fellin is offline
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have you thought about ignition coil? Does this one even have ignition coils? If not maybe bad distributor?
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2009, 06:14 PM
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That old back I think it was distributor
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:14 PM
david david is offline
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hmm,
would it be a bad thing to keep driving the truck with this problem until I figure it out or will it destroy my engine(if it's distributor)?
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:16 PM
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Personally I don't like to drive a vehicle that is acting up Specially if it is acting like u say. Never know when it may die and leave u stranded

Do u wanna walk or have to call a tow truck?
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Old 08-17-2009, 07:20 PM
david david is offline
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Well I certainly don't want to walk or call a tow truck but I gotta drive to work so I suppose I have no choice until wed.

what's involved with swapping out a distributor? special tools?
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  #11  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:34 PM
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1. Rotate the engine until the No. 1 piston is on Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke.
To find TDC pull the #1 spark plug, insert your figure and slowly turn the engine over until the piston reaches TDC. you'll know when it is TDC cause it will blow your finger out of the hole

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the vehicle wiring harness connector from the distributor. Before removing the distributor cap, mark the position of the No. 1 wire tower on the cap for reference.

3. Loosen the distributor cap hold-down screws and remove the cap. Matchmark the position of the rotor to the distributor housing. Position the cap and wires out of the way.

4. Scribe a mark in the distributor body and the engine block to indicate the position of the distributor in the engine.

5. Remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp.

Some engines may be equipped with a security-type distributor hold-down bolt. If this is the case, use distributor wrench T82L-1270-A or equivalent, to remove the retaining bolt and clamp.

6. Remove the distributor assembly from the engine. Be sure not to rotate the engine while the distributor is removed.

To install:

7. Make sure that the engine is still with the No. 1 piston up on TDC of its compression stroke.

If the engine was disturbed while the distributor was removed, it will be necessary to remove the No. 1 spark plug and rotate the engine clockwise until the No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke. Align the timing pointer with TDC on the crankshaft damper or flywheel, as required.

8. Check that the O-ring is installed and in good condition on the distributor body.

9. On all vehicles:

9.1. Rotate the distributor shaft so the rotor points toward the mark on the distributor housing made previously.

9.2. Rotate the rotor slightly so the leading edge of the vane is centered in the vane switch state assembly.

9.3. Rotate the distributor in the block to align the leading edge of the vane with the vane switch stator assembly. Make certain the rotor is pointing to the No. 1 mark on the distributor base.

If the vane and vane switch stator cannot be aligned by rotating the distributor in the cylinder block, remove the distributor enough to just disengage the distributor gear from the camshaft gear. Rotate the rotor enough to engage the distributor gear on another tooth of the camshaft gear. Repeat Step 9 if necessary.

10. Install the distributor hold-down clamp and bolt(s); tighten them slightly.

11. Attach the vehicle wiring harness connector to the distributor.

12. Install the cap and wires. Install the No. 1 spark plug, if removed.

13. Recheck the initial timing.

14. Tighten the hold-down clamp and recheck the timing. Adjust if necessary.
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Last edited by STL; 08-17-2009 at 07:38 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:38 PM
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distributor mounted ICM distributor


remote mounted ICM distributor

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  #13  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:40 PM
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You can test to see if yours is working or not

1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.

2. Remove the coil wire and ground it.

3. Touch the negative (-) lead from a volt/ohmmeter to the distributor base.

4. Disconnect the pin-in-line connector near the distributor and attach the positive (+) volt/ohmmeter lead to the TFI module side of the connector.

5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

6. Bump the starter and measure the voltage levels with the engine not moving. Allow sufficient time for the digital voltage reading to stabilize before taking the measurement. Record all values for possible use in additional tests.

7. If the highest reading is greater than 90 percent 90% of battery voltage, go to Step 8. If the highest value is less than 90% of battery voltage, replace the stator assembly.

8.1 If the lowest value is greater than 0.5 volts, remove the distributor from the engine. Remove the TFI module from the distributor and check the stator connector terminals and TFI terminals for misalignment; service as necessary. If OK, replace the stator assembly. If the lowest value is less than 0.5 volts, go to Step 9.

9. If all values are between 0.5 volts and 90% of battery voltage, replace the stator assembly. If no values are between 0.5 volts and 90% of battery voltage, go on to the EEC-IV/TFI-IV Test.
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:44 PM
david david is offline
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Wowee STL that was quite alot of information! Thank you.

I can't see this being a super difficult install if I just follow the instructions, however I am going to wait until next week and get a friend to help me so I'll be more confidant.

thanks alot STL, hopefully this is the answer to the problem.
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  #15  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:52 PM
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Hopefully he knows what he is doing. If you have never taken one out I suggest strongly against it you can mess stuff up fast. Been there done that HAHAHA

if he knows his stuff he can teach u some stuff which is good to learn other than the fact they don't use distributors anymore
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