Had a tough time heating up the cab last winter but after a few miles on max heat I'd be warm enough. This year turned the heater on and got cold air only. Heater core hoses equally warm. Coolant level good. Checked out information on blend door. Haven't pulled that apart yet but was wondering if this sounded more like a heater control valve problem. Vacuum line checks out OK with no cracks. For $20 I thought I'd replace the heater control valve and hope I don't get into the blend door problem. Any thoughts out there?

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1997 Ford Ranger 2.3 L xlt

How is the engine temp? Does the engine warm up? If so, your thermostat is good. Your control valve could be bad but your heater core might be plugged too.

Try removing the heater hoses and flushing the core one direction, then the other and see what you get. If the flow is good, they it's the valve or a vacuum line to the valve.

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Sgtsandman's Work in Progress
2011 Ranger XLT, 4X4, 4 door Super Cab. 4.0L, 5 Speed M50D-R1HD, 3.73:1, 8.8" open differential, Jason Pace cap
2019 Ford Ranger STX FX4, Super Crew, 2.3L Ecoboost, 10 speed automatic, 3.73:1 with rear locker, Leer 100XR cap

Thx Mike-
Engine heats up fine. Doesn't seem to be a thermostat problem. Going to work on it saturday. I'll post the results from the core flush.

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1997 Ford Ranger 2.3 L xlt

if both the heater hoses are hot then i wouldn't think it'd be the control valve. also, if they're both hot i dont see how it could be a clogged core either, because they're both getting hot, so coolant is circulating. i vote blend door. i dont know if they're vacuum controlled or not, but you could also look into a vacuum problem.

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1995 Ranger, 4/6 drop, 26x,xxx on a 2.3!!"

do you smell coolant in the cab if so your heater core is cracked i just replaced mine only 24.00 dollars well worth it you also might have an air lock while the truck is running pull off each hose that goes into the heater core than quickly push it back on. that will let all air out.

I bet you have a 1994 or older.......piece of cake to change those........the 95+ you have to pull the dash.......

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

if the heater hose coming out of the engine does not get hot if it is only warm..........it is your t-stat.........if it is hot and then when it gets to the heater control vale it is warm on the other side then your valve is not working. You must have AC right?

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

haha yup 94 good call man

Well I worked on my 97 Ranger this weekend to fix the no heat issue. I bought a heater control valve for $20. Pulled off the hoses and drained the coolant. The heater control vave seemed to stick as I manually moved it. I flushed the heater core and the old coolant from the engine. Replaced the heater control valve and started up the engine. Great heat within a few minutes. I think it was the control valve because it was sticking a little but I'm sure flushing everything out didn't hurt either. Thanks for the responses!

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1997 Ford Ranger 2.3 L xlt