Just wanted to thank everyone on this post regarding changing the plugs on a 8-plug Ford Ranger 4-banger. I, too, thought this would be impossible without removing the upper-intake, but am now ready to give it a go.
My '98 Ranger is the standard cab and long bed that I use for a weekend driver and for hauling music equipment to gigs, etc. I am curious- Anyone have an idea of the total miles one can rack up on this engine w/ auto-trans combination prior to a rebuild?
I am at 140K and have the two rear plugs and wires to replace to wrap up the plug-change. This little truck is getting an average of 23-25 mpg and I have gotten up to 27 mpg with the cap off and a motorcycle in the back (2008).
Looking forward to many great years ahead and have done quite a few repairs including ball-joints, starter, Steel-wheels with chrome covers that rusted out way too early, etc.
I will try to take pics during the plug-change and do a write up and post in the near future....

My 1998 2.5L has almost 210,000 miles on it. This truck was parked for over two years and never started. Not pretty to look at, but it runs like a top.

I don't understand how everyone has problems with Bosche double platinum plugs. I've had my Bosche plugs in farther than I wanted, but haven't had the time to replace. Got around 80k miles on then and the truck runs like a champ still. I put the 8.5mm spark plug wires on. Absolutely no idea if this is a rip off or not over the standard 7mm, but I went with the stronger ones. Only advice I could offer on changing the plugs, it helps if you have a smaller hand to get to the ones under the manifold. I could get to them, but not grasp (yes I didn't have the plastic piece in the spark plug socket, but now I do) so it was a pain but my friend with small hands could reach through and changed them with ease.

Good luck and stay calm!

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT
2.5L 4cyl - everything is pretty much stock!

I used a loop in a clothesline rope through the manifold and over the tab on the boot (#3 and #4 drivers side. 3/8" extension and the plug socket working through the slots in the plenum went straight on. Used a 1/4" drive on the #4 to get it started (aligned better). Passenger side was a breeze. Didn't have to use a swivel at all and the whole thing took 4 hours.

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bad*dawg 96 Ranger 4x2 stick with 135K miles.

Alright, just to share my headache experience today on a 1998 2.5L 4 banger (8 plugs)...and 145,000 miles. Im pretty sure the driver's side plugs have never been changed, or the plug wires, looked like total crap. It usually ran pretty good the 5 years I've owned it, but started idling rough these past 2 weeks. Sorry if this is too long for you, I try to include all helpful details.

Things I used: 3/8 socket driver, 5/8 magnetic spark plug socket, 18 inch 3/8 socket extension, 3/8 universal joint for the sockets, 3/8 clicking torque wrench, 11 inch needle nose pliars, anti seize for the plugs (matter of opinion, use or not), can of air, small bright flashlight, plug gapper, Autolite double platinum plugs and Autolite pro wires (pre siliconed).

I dont have a lot of experience as a mechanic. Never worked as one, though I do find it interesting. I've just done some things myself over the years for myself, friends, and family in order to save money and because I sometimes enjoy it (or I didnt want to over pay for it, $450 in this case for a plug/wire replacement, knowing I can do it if I just try). Ive replaced battery terminals, alternators, water pumps, serpintine belts, brakes, rotors, coils, and I've done quite a few plug and wire replacements. But this one was by far the worst headache.

Thanks to this forum and other information on the net, I did this job w/o removing anything but the throttle cable cover (pushed to the back to make it easier to see and feel around) and the air filter housing and hose (the housing because I was also replacing the serpintine belt, needed room for the pipe I added to the socket wrench to make the tensioner easier to manipulate). But do the driver side plugs and wires first w/o removing that. You want to start the truck to test after those 4 are replaced, just to be sure. Then remove it and start on the passenger side. Also, be sure you do the plug wires one at a time.

Before I started on the drivers side, I gapped the plugs at .044. Something else I did was match each individual plug wire to the size of the one removed. Some werent perfect matches, but close enough. I also checked the fit of the plug to the plug wire before hand to make sure it was just a snug snap for a good fit.
Now to remove the hardest ones, the 2 furthest in the back (driver's side), wanted to get those knocked out first....plus I had shade for a little while this morning (no garage)....man was it hot later!
Used the long needle nose to go between the manifold (very little room) and pull the plug wire off. Had to look at it from the front side of the truck to see what I was doing after the needle nose was down in there. Very hard to get off, pulling and twisting multiple places at the boot and when it finally came off, the metal connector from the wire stayed attached to the plug. Got it off no problem though with the needle nose. Then used the flashlight to check for trash around the plug, of course there is some. Used the can of air to clean it out. Attached the 18' extension to the spark plug socket, fished it down until I felt it settle around the plug, hooked the socket wrench on and worked the spark plug out. Put anti seize on the new plug, fished it down, went counterclockwise a little to feel if Im going on straight, then clockwise and hand tightened (make sure its turning easy, if not, you're not on straight and will strip the threads, back up and try again). Hooked the torque wrench onto the extension. Torque was at 160 inch/lbs. Tightened her up.

Now comes the fun part >>8D . Putting the plug wire on. I had to remove the plastic hook from the boot because I just got aggravated with it, and the plug wire that was on before didnt have it. Maybe others with more exp. figured how to get it on w/o problems, but after about 10 minutes I was so darn mad I could eat a wasp. Now remember, you want to place the plug wire boot onto the plug first, then fish the rest of it to the coil pack. I used the needle nose and fingers, lots of maneuvering, and lots of cursing and somehow magically, got that darn boot to center onto that plug. Used the needle nose to push on the top of the boot and felt it snap into place. Up until I felt that snap, I felt like I was standing bare foot on fire ant hills, attacking a hornets nest while some naked crazy man was laughing his ass off trying to get a flame thrower lit with his almost empty lighter to finish me off. Thats just what best comes to mind in me trying to describe the horror....plus I was a little hungover (yea, a remnant from that movie "the hangover" crept into my imagination).
The other plugs werent that bad, followed about the same procedures but used the universal joint to make them easier. Got the plug wire on the 2nd to the back on the drivers side w/o any problem. All the others were a cinch after that.

So I spent about $100 total, got a few tools that will come in handy in the future, and gained a lot more desire for a V6 Ranger. But until then, this one is my baby and she's been VERY faithful and reliable. I paid $3800 for her in 2007 and have had to do very little....tires, battery and ball joints. But I'll say this, after the test drive, there was a very noticable difference. The coil packs will probably be next on the list...and timing belt. Well, I hope this helps anyone who wants to try it. Good luck.

any pics max?^^^

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1999 xlt 2.5l 5-speed Supercab 159k
83 diesel 2.2l na
06 F250 6.0l psd
{click for lol}

Na, I figured most would know whats going on. I thought about doing a vid on utube beforehand but that would have been heavily censored, lol.

You don't know how much I thank you. I just got a very sweat 1996 ranger 4 cylinder. I looked at the driver side plugs and thought... I'll just get another beer and forget it. Now I'm going to try it. I was told by the parts store to just take the intake off, yea right. Anyway, I do thank you. I didn't know where to start

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1996 XLT / Stock 2.3L / 5 speed / mileage 223,472

I purchased this truck from an individual in July 2012. He was the second owner. He had the truck for 4 years. His son could not drive a stick and needed a car. During the time he had it, only regular maintenance was performed. To my knowledge, no major work has been done.

When they say "built Ford tough" they aint lying.
Glad my story helped. So did everything go ok?

Haha! Thats right! Oh yeah and Bosch r crap so never use em, i can tell u by experience and by the experience of others. I do not recommend them.

GO GO POWER RANGER!!!

Well i have a mechanic friend that is licensed and certified and everything. He had just the 5/8 deep socket with the swivel already attached with it i think its just a plug socket set. Took like 2 hours had to cut the wire to get it out just cuz it was easier to take out, just not to hastle with it if u have a friend thats know what hes doing just get the hook up from him.

I just wanted to say a big thank you for this, i am attempting to get a truck that was given to me running, this was a huge help, I really didnt want to have to take the manifold off. with your help i didnt have to.

Looking to replace my Plugs / wire has anything change or make it easy since the original posts!

PU Runs fine, still has original Battery, but getting weak. Just hit 100k this week. great truck average 23 mpg yearly.

It is cheaper to keep it rather than getting a new PU. Who can afford them.

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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4-Cly stick. Original Battery still in vehicle. Looking for it to Die soon Only 100k on Pick-up as of July 4, 2015