How do I turn the crank to leak test #2,3,4 cylinders?
I did a compression test on my 98 2.5 to try and figure out why it randomly stalls sometimes. I thought it was a fuel system issue. However, I bought a new fuel pump and a new fuel pump tester gauge. It's good 65 PSI and doesn't drop instantly when the key is shut off. Thought I had a leaking check valve or injector because my old tester showed that. Looks like my tester was just bad. I let the engine warm up for about 5 mintues so I wouldn't get burned removing the plugs because it's not reliable enough to drive right now to get up to temperature. I checked compression it was 180PSI on all 4 Cylinders. Cylinder 3 was probably 175-176 PSI but everything else was dead on 180. I did forget to press the pedal to the floor when checking cylinder 1 compression but it was still 180 PSI. I was able to get #1 cylinder tested with the leak down test by checking for air blowing on my finger while turning the crank. At TDC it was between 30-35%. That's not good already. I checked it twice with the same results. Compressor was regulated to 30 PSI. I couldn't figure out how to set #2 and #3 cylinders but I tried #4 and it seemed to line up with the mark TDC while air was blowing on my finger. It was at like 20-22%. When I tried the air on the finger trick for #2 and #3 it the mark on the crank pulley doesn't correspond to when it is happening. What's the right way to check those? It's my first time doing this leak down test.
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1998 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5 4R44E Automatic Regular Cab, 4.10 non-limited slip
1993 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3 M5 Manual, Regular Cab, 3.45 non-limited slip
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