Hi, I own a 2001 2.3L Automatic 2WD Ranger with about 116k miles. Last week I noticed it overheated because my coolant tank cracked and started spitting coolant.

I quickly plugged in my scanner and saw that it was about 250 degrees, extremely hot. I did a scan and code P1432 came up, I went ahead and ordered a new thermostat, replaced it and cleared the codes. The truck still over heats quick, temperature rises nonstop.

I bled the coolant hoses and disconnected the battery for a while to see if it would reset anything or perform a relearn, but the code still comes up and the truck heats up quick.

I cannot find any answers on Google than the obvious Thermostat Heater Control Circuit Failure, but that doesn't help me at all. Is this a wire, a fuse, something?

I also installed a new coolant tank reservoir.

FYI: When I removed the old thermostat I noticed it didn't have the spring, so the previous owner removed it, not sure the reason for it.

Thank you.

Step 1 - buy thermostat for 2004+ rangers

Step 2 - install new thermostat.

Step 3 - Remove electrical component out of old thermostat

Step 4 - plug electrical component in, tie it out of the way and away from other wiring


The 2001.5-2003 Duratech 2.3 rangers had a bunch of wonky things. One of them was the "heated thermostat" Ford for some reason built them with 210 degree T-Stats, and they should of been 190s. So to fix that, they built a thermostat that had a heater in it, to increase the thermostat ambient temp from 190 to 210...silly, I know. The 2004+ thermostats are standard 190 degree mechanical units. Nothing fancy to have to fix.

The temp is controlled by a combo reading input from the CTS (coolant temp sensor) and the CHTS (Cylinder head temp sensor) The CHTS is the plug between cyl 2 and 3 spark plugs. The CTS is behind the head, on the aluminum water neck. It is very difficult to access this, and I'd recommend unbolting the trans mount and tilting the engine forward to gain more room, by lifting the transmission up (safely, and correctly, I may add) It would be a good idea to try and check their temp readings before assuming they are bad. If the "heater" of the thermostat is not plugged in, or otherwise faulted, it will throw that control system failure as well.

What I have also found is you have to overfill the hell out of the coolant system to purge air out of the heater and upper radiator inlet/bypass tube. I would fill that overflow tank to the brim, start, run for 5 mins, and then fill it between MAX and the lid. The overflow tank had a recall on the cap as well, if you are running the original expansion tank cap, GET RID OF IT and buy an OEM FoMoCo cap and expansion tank. Do not use anything but OEM for this part. The combo should be about 100 shipped to your door. I used other parts. Been there/Done that.

You don't want to do that, LOL

P.S. If I were you, I would get rid of the heater core bypass system. It doesn't activate unless you run MAX A/C, and otherwise causes another point of failure in the cooling system. Mine has broken twice, second time around I got rid of a hose and used a brass union to join the passenger side hose to its mate.

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2001.5 2.3 213xxx and counting
M501-HD L154 Manual
Don't bother looking for 1st gear synchros, I bought the last one