Will a 1997 automatic trans from a 3.0 fit my 1991 with a 2.3 engine? What wiring issues would I get into? Thanks in advance.

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"Papa" Ron
2000 Extended Cab 3.0 4R44E 2wd
No mods - it's a "run to town" truck

Not possible. Your 91 has a A4LD while the 97 has a 4r44e. Mechanically they are the same transmission but the 4r44e is electronically controlled via solenoids. The ecm controls the solenoids so there is simply no way to add the electronics necessary unless you swap the entire power train and wiring.

I sure appreciate your response. Looks like I'll be pulling it out and rebuilding it. Although I've done a few C-4's, an FMX, a Mopar 727 and a couple GM 350's, I am still uncomfortable inside most automatics. Wish me luck.

__________________
"Papa" Ron
2000 Extended Cab 3.0 4R44E 2wd
No mods - it's a "run to town" truck

The A4LD has a bad reputation, but it can be built to last, and even stock, out-of-the-box, it can last close to 200k, behind a 4.0, pulling a horse trailer.
You will not need many special tools, except a good snap ring pliers, and a compression tool to swap out the clutches and steels, and replace the seal in the clutch packs.

Take it apart and lay out the pieces in a long row, all facing the direction they came out.

The center support section has Teflon O-rings that need to be installed without cutting. When installing, put them in hot water to make them expandable, and slide onto the support hub. When installing the center support, gravity should apply enough force that it should just slide into place, if things are aligned properly, and lubed.
Check the splines on the input shaft for 'twist' damage, and replace with used/new as needed. The 'basket' can be welded to increase strength. Do not flip it over as that won't work for some reason.
I did one about 10 years ago, and would have flipped the flat plate with the three 'fingers' to equalize wear, but was told by a shop to pay ~$30 to have it welded instead. I was also told to replace input shafts with twisted splines( very fine, almost too fine to have any strength), which had a piece that could not be removed... Been a long time.
You can get a 'banner' kit for around $150, which should be fine, and you should replace damaged hard parts, such as accumulators, OD drums, sprag clutch, bands(if worn unevenly), servos, servo pistons, and hubs if scored or worn.
Be careful with Torrington bearings or thrust washers/bearings and insure you keep them pointing the same direction as original. I was fiddling with a sun assembly(?) and the washer fell out(checking the bearings for smooth), and I started to put it back in what seemed 'normal' direction. The builder was watching, and corrected me... Would have cost a bit to repair that, so keep them in order/faced. Replace the thrust bearings/washers that are worn or damaged(scored).
tom