First off I apologize if this is a redundant help me thread, I searched in advance and have used the advice gained from a few different threads here based on those searches, I am posting in hopes that someone may have overcome the same situation I seem to have arrived at with their own truck and can help out. I have exhausted just about every possible means to get the truck running. Also, apologies if the title is misleading, the truck will crank, but won't turn over - as in start under its own power.

It's a '96 2.3L manual 2WD step-side, one owner, 160,000 miles.

*All parts are Delphi or Motocraft

Did a compression test, 130psi. (Not the timing belt then)
Replaced fuel pump, and fuel filter.
Replaced the front coil for the two. (I said almost everything, one coil is original)
Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve
Checked fuel at the Fuel test port, have fuel.
Checked spark at the coil, have spark.
Starting Ether down the intake, still no start.
Replaced the Inertia Switch.
Tested the Fuel Pump Relay, and the subsequent wiring. All good that I can tell. (Swapped relays as well)
All fuses are checked and good.
Cleaned the MAF

Now I also must add, that the first night I worked on the truck, I tried pouring some gas down the intake, and assuming that it was flooded - was lucky enough that a good Samaritan saw me struggling (working on this in the street) towed me around the neighborhood in his Ranger with the truck in gear to clear out any excess fuel. Smelled some starting fluid, but no gas.

The only items I have not replaced that I believe were possibly at issue are the Fuel Pressure Regulator, sitting atop the injector log, and the Rear Coil, and the Ignition Control Module.

The truck will crank until I have to charge the battery, but no smell of fuel from the exhaust, really beat on this one . Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED as I intended to take it to a mechanic, but being thanksgiving week it seems the shops are slammed.

are you 100% sure its not the timing belt? It can have compression but if the belt slipped or teeth sheered off it probably won't start. there is something wrong, especially if it won't run on ether

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From my understanding if the compression test checks out, and there is no OBDII code stating that the Crankshaft/Camshaft position sensor is not getting a reading or fouled, then best I can tell the timing belt is Ok. I have not gone as far as to remove the cover, but I am majority wise sure that the compression test would have failed if the valves were partially or fully open from the camshaft not rotating.

Perhaps the belt has slipped - hence the timing is off. That has been suggested once to me already but without a teardown or the specific tool to hook into the ICM/Timing control (if that is what the box is called) I cannot be 100% sure, just 51% sure that it is not the timing belt being broken. Also, there has been zero ignition even with start fluid and gas down the intake. Not even a misfire. Perhaps I should buy an inspection camera to look inside the timing belt cover.

Thanks for the input, going to bust my knuckles a bit more trying to replace the ICM and fuel regulator.

Can confirm it is not the timing belt, pulled back cover to inspect it, it is not broken.

Fuel system tested at 40psi, which is to spec. So it is not the pressure regulator as is advised by the FSM to replace when the fuel filter is replaced. Bled a little bit of air out of the line but nothing significant.

Still not turning on, have not tried replacing the second coil yet, but as I said before I get spark from the original coil. Again, no OBDII codes.

Seems like this is an electrical demon that I have overlooked, or some other gremlin lurking around where I cannot see it. Maybe time to try circuit testing everything for the umpteenth time.

I you continue throwing parts at it, eventually you'll replace the bad part.
The timing belt isn't broken......well maybe it slipped a few teeth.

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As you gave no history except it won't start and you replaced parts, it is a bit harder to figure out what is going on.
At first, it would seem something is amiss, timing wise.
If you get pops and stumbles, as in it is burning fuel, but at the wrong time, it could be you have the wires in the coil in the wrong place. There's a sketch on the site somewhere. Given also that 1&4 plus 2&3 both fire at the same time, it might be a good idea to check that even though you have spark at the coil... you may not have it at the spark plugs. As I understand, one plug has spark from center to side electrode, the other from side to center, and then back to the coil, more or less. If one plug has damaged electrodes, the spark may go so far, and go right to ground. I think.
I'd pull the plugs, inspect, and clean or replace. They are not expensive, and are a good maintenance item. All could be totally fouled or covered with deposits.
I would also check with a length of tubing, a screwdriver, or fingers to hear/feel the injectors pulse as the engine is cranked over. No pulse== no fuel injected.
First thought was cam/crank position sensors. Without, no sparky. Do you have cranking spark at the plug wires? You mentioned getting the coil to spark, not how. Using 12v to energize, and then removing the voltage will cause the coil to spark, but does not test the other components nor the plug wire position. I have lost track of which model year has ignition control modules, and which depend on the computer to operate the ignition system. Given you have OBD-II, you may not even have an ignition control module.
tom

I am wondering at this point if that is the case. The timing belt from the backside of the timing cover appears pretty worn, usual tiny cracks etc. The truck was my step-mom's, and my dad has mentioned that the timing belt was replaced, but supposedly at a quick oil change joint. Which given what that requires makes me question if they did the work or just charged her and sent her on her way. It was never driven hard, off roaded, or even used to haul anything until about 2017, when I hauled some compost in it.

The truck does not stumble, or even begin to crank with spark. It just runs on the starter until I have to charge the battery.



Wires are installed correctly. I may have only a few posts but this is not my first automotive rodeo. Plugs were replaced > 20,000 miles ago with Ford Platinum series plugs, wires as well. One of two coils was replaced with a motocraft unit. When I pulled a plug to do the compression test, it was not fouled or any dirtier than is typical for a spark plug that has been run a few thousand miles.

Had a few very nice people who've seen me working on the thing in their neighborhood come to help - while I sat in the driver seat turning the ignition, they arc'ed the spark from the end of a plug wire to the corresponding port on the coil. Also tested spark from plugwire sparkplug end to a ground.

I have not tested this myself as I cannot be two places at once. But I trust that it sparked, and I heard it arc.

Also, this 1996 has OBDII, Ford must have produced some models with OBDII that year and some without, 1995/96 was the first production years with these systems, (OBDI and OBDII if I am not mistaken.) I mention the ICM because I was simply eliminating what components it could be - and I do think you are correct that I do not have an ICM on this truck, though Haynes manuals and FSM searches are scant on this topic anyhow.

Thank you everyone for your input so far.

To give a little background on the situation in which the truck stalled out - I parked it on a hill, it started just fine as it always has, drove about 1/2 mile, got to a stop in traffic, motor began to stumble, (A/C was off) and then stalls out. Not a single time since has it misfired or fired up even for a moment. Not with gasoline down the intake, or starter fluid.

As a guess, given you have spark, air, compression and fuel, and it won't fire, the spark is happening at the wrong time.
At the least, I would check the cam timing, as in put the crankshaft at TDC(keyway at noon will do), and check the cam triangle on the sprocket edge is at the pointer(about 4 o'clock). I am not up on 96 version cam/crank sensor position, but your aux shaft maybe should be in time also. I do not know the specs, but there is a pointer/mark also from what I understand.
Once you are sure all that is correct, it should work.
tom