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  #1  
Old 10-27-2018, 08:10 PM
fallbalance fallbalance is offline
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Default Shorter drive belt considerations

Ello'.

I have a 95' ranger (4 cylinder manual). I've had a bit of trouble lately, in an otherwise pretty reliable timeline.

My air conditioner compressor seems to have died... I recently came home from a long trip, where I heard a whirring noise coming from the engine suddenly, and a strong burning rubber type smell when I finally pulled into my driveway. Upon inspection, I'm 90 prevent sure that it's coming from the AC unit, with the off chance that it is the power steering motor that rests underneath.

My air conditioning didn't really work well anyways -- it probably needed a recharge... It would give me a few minutes of cooling, but that's it.

Anywho, I was with a friend who recommended the idea of buying a shorter drive belt, and just bypassing the AC compressor. He said I might get more power / efficiency as well. This sounds like a good idea. Before I do try this though, I wanted to run this by you guys to make sure I'm not missing something... Is it as easy as just replacing the belt, or is there another consideration here (resistance, belt speed, balance)?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 10-28-2018, 04:26 AM
tomboy tomboy is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

You can get belts for trucks without air, just slip it on and go, the crank is what drives things, and it only changes speed with rpm's.
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2018, 06:12 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

If you look under the hood, you may find a chart/diagram showing the routing of the serpentine belt. If there is a non-A/C version, it will be shown with a belt bypassing the normal A/C pulley position. In that case, it is simple to get a shorter belt that will fit properly without question.
If you remove the belt, you should be able to spin the A/C pulley freely. It rides on a bearing and spins 100% of the time the engine is running. The 'center' section of the pulley is connected to the crankshaft of the compressor, and only rotates when the clutch clamps the pulley to the center. You should be able to rotate the center with some resistance, but smoothly(no 'chunky').
While the belt is off, try spinning the power steering pump pulley. It should turn smoothly also.
tom
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  #4  
Old 10-29-2018, 03:00 PM
fallbalance fallbalance is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

Hey guys -- thanks to the both of you for the responses. This is exactly the info I needed. I think I'll give the shorter belt a try, and see if that gets the ol' girl back in shape again.

Now I have another bit to figure out... What is the easiest way to figure out what size belt I need? I read that I can wrap a rope around the path and then measure that length... Sure, that will work, but is there a database or reference that already has the measurement I need?
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  #5  
Old 10-29-2018, 04:38 PM
dvrich dvrich is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

All these replies and not one post asking whether the noise is there when the compressor isn't cycling.
If the clutch assembly is OK then why not just unplug the compressor and leave it at that?
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  #6  
Old 10-29-2018, 11:20 PM
fallbalance fallbalance is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

Oh right, I should have noted that the noise is still there when the AC is off.

I was wondering, though, if there is a possibility that the unit failed and the clutch became permanently engaged, regardless of whether it was turned on in the cab or not... I don't know...

I wish I could isolate the sound better when the engine is running, but the closest I can tell is that it's either the power steering pump or the AC compressor, which is mounted directly above. I guess a shorter belt bypassing the AC would tell me which one is failing just by process of elimination...
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  #7  
Old 10-30-2018, 06:09 AM
dvrich dvrich is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

The problem with just bypassing the compressor is if you turn on Defrost which calls for the compressor.........if no compressor is present then the engine will rev high to compensate for the added load.
I don't know how to remedy this, but it won't be evident with an auto transmission.
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  #8  
Old 10-30-2018, 07:27 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

DV - I did note the pulley should spin freely with the belt removed in the last sentence of my reply. Obviously, if it did not spin freely, that would indicate a problem with the clutch.
The IAC should note that the rpm is higher than expected when the load of the A/C clutch engaging is present, and adjust back to normal rpm setting. It should not keep the idle rpms higher than normal just because the clutch is being supplied power. That is the whole idea of having a smart idle control( well, not that smart), to keep the idle within reason no matter the load. Back when carburetors were more common, it was problematic to have a decent idle when the compressor engaged without having a 'racing' idle when the compressor was idle. Higher priced cars sometimes had solenoids that would extend when the A/C clutch was powered that would holt the throttle open more when the engine was supposed to be at idle. Very similar to the anti-runon solenoids of GM vehicles in the late 1960's. The throttle plates would go to full closed when the solenoid was de-powered to starve the engine of air, and make it stop. To set them for normal idle, you had to turn the key to ON, and step on the gas pedal, and then the solenoid would extend. They were not strong enough to open the throttle on their own.
Things have changed
tom
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  #9  
Old 10-30-2018, 08:19 AM
fallbalance fallbalance is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

Well, between the recently never ending rain here in NY, not having regular access to a dry garage, and 'regular' work, I still haven't gotten to this... soon though, and then I will have more to report.
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  #10  
Old 11-02-2018, 09:43 PM
fallbalance fallbalance is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

Good news here. I replaced the belt, and disabled the AC compressor. That was indeed the problem! It's running quiet again, and even seems to have just a little more power and responsiveness... cool!

Now I need to figure out why my heater isn't working... It hasn't been working properly for about a year now... This might be grounds for a new thread, but I would like to know if it is somehow related to the AC compressor...? It doesn't seem like it would. The heat is warm for a couple seconds, then tapers down to luke warm, then barely warm after just a minute or two...
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  #11  
Old 11-03-2018, 02:03 PM
dvrich dvrich is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

[QUOTE=fallbalance;2748276

Now I need to figure out why my heater isn't working... It hasn't been working properly for about a year now... This might be grounds for a new thread, but I would like to know if it is somehow related to the AC compressor...? It doesn't seem like it would. The heat is warm for a couple seconds, then tapers down to luke warm, then barely warm after just a minute or two... [/QUOTE]


Clogged heater core or bad heater control valve according to what you have posted, I am assuming the engine runs at normal temperature.
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2018, 09:53 PM
fallbalance fallbalance is offline
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Default Re: Shorter drive belt considerations

Ah, ok -- I'll do some Google research on that. Thanks again for all the input! I'm really impressed with this forum and the effort you folks put forth to help those seeking advice... pretty great.
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a/c, compressor, drive belt, serpentine

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