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  #1  
Old 09-18-2018, 01:41 PM
CP30 CP30 is offline
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Default Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

2003 Ford Ranger 2WD 4cyl - 296,000 miles

I've developed a little issue with the idle dropping out at a stop. Everything is fine while running. AND I'm getting a "system to lean" code tripped which I have found is mostly likely a vacuum leak, but..

..one day I tried to resolve the idle issue by cleaning the MAF sensor, changing out the air filter, and cleaning the throttle body with TB cleaner. After I did these 3 things the idle was great for several days with no problem. So, not so sure it's a vacuum leak.

What I've decided to do is replace all fuel injectors, replace the IAC motor and remove the throttle body and soak it for 24 hours in (something).

I was fixing to completely submerse and soak the throttle body in high test gasoline for 24 hours. But, the TB frame is made of plastic. Will a 24 hour gasoline soak weaken the plastic frame of the throttle body? Or is there a better solvent to soak it in?

I've already gone through the process of repeatedly spraying TB cleaner in through the front of the TB without removing the TB. That doesn't last long. This think needs a good soaking.

After I do all these things if I'm still getting the idle drop-out problem at a stop then I will focus on finding a vacuum leak.

I know the vacuum hose that attaches the PCV valve to the intake manifold is looser at the PCV end and is usually the cause of the "system to lean" code trip. I fixed that problem. The problem there is that the connection at the intake manifold side (at the rear of the engine) is bigger than the connection at the PCV valve. So when you get vacuum hose big enough to go onto the manifold connection tube, that size vacuum hose is to big for the PCV valve tube. Which makes it loose, which makes it leak. I fixed that by getting hose just big enough to get onto the intake manifold tube/connection and then adapting it down to smaller vacuum hose at the PCV valve tube/connection for a tight fit at the PCV valve.
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2018, 05:51 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Wow.. holy over analyzing..

First..

Available everywhere...

And you could throw a heavy duty cleaning agent like Berrymans fuel Inj cleaner through there for two tankfuls if you deem it necessary. To run out and just throw new injectors on it without even being able to verify that being an issue seems relevant of just throwing parts at it until it fixes itself.

You are either dealing with a bad IAC valve or a possible vacuum leak. And NO need/nor should you soak the T/B in gasoline unless you're stripping it down for a rebuild and I don't even think they set them up for that anymore.

Furthermore you're changing too many things at one time and may have an issue of identifying the sole issue.

Do the IAC valve first. Throw the berrymans afterwards just for a good cleaning and I recommend it once every 6-9 months especially if you're one of those folks who put the cheapest shit gas you can find cause you think your saving some money from it..

If the vehicle is stalling, the biggest culprit is usually the IAC. Vacuum lines would usually give you a higher idle and or a rough idle. Very few things I can think of at the moment would "stall" out the truck in leak form.
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  #3  
Old 09-19-2018, 06:17 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Ayup. I would add that removing the throttle body and using a tooth brush(or equivalent) over a cake pan to catch the brake clean(TB cleaner) so you can re-splash it onto the gunk to give it more time to work. If you do use brake clean, it will evap from the cake pan leaving behind a layer of sludge/dirt that you removed, to be scraped out and the pan is good to go for the next time. I use 13X9 sheet cake pans. Also good, lined up side-to-side as catchers for draining automatic transmission when the only way is to drop the pan. You can 'surround' the big pan with these cake pans(wife no longer liked them) and you'll catch 99% of the ATF.
If you do remove the TB, look on the edge of the butterfly, and on the area just inside the TB behind the butterfly. Generally coated with a buildup that removes the 'crisp' from throttle action, makes it kind of 'doughy'(pronounced doe-ee).
tom
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  #4  
Old 09-19-2018, 07:12 PM
CP30 CP30 is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrstm8ed View Post
Wow.. holy over analyzing..

First..

Available everywhere...
I have both CRC throttle body cleaner and CRC brake cleaner and have been in possession of both of those products for over 25 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrstm8ed View Post
And you could throw a heavy duty cleaning agent like Berrymans fuel Inj cleaner through there for two tankfuls if you deem it necessary. To run out and just throw new injectors on it without even being able to verify that being an issue seems relevant of just throwing parts at it until it fixes itself.
I threw some heavy duty fuel injector cleaner in with a tank of 93 octane gas about a month ago. I've read your not supposed to use fuel injector cleaner to frequently.

I use my vehicle for my job and yes, I use nothing but regular gas. It has saved me hundreds and hundreds of dollars over the years. Downside is varnish on the injectors. I already knew that going in.

The thing is this. I got oil in my spark plug tubes. I've got to fix this. I plan on popping the valve cover off and fixing the leaky plug tubes. In order to do that I gotta pop off the intake manifold. Once I do that the injectors are right there where I can get at them. This vehicle has 300,000 miles on it. I fugure why not go ahead and replace all four injectors. I got four reman injectors from Rock Auto for $100. I'm only shelling out $100 for four perfectly clean injectors with perfect spray patterns. That's pretty cost effective considering that regular cheapo gas usage probably saved me $1000 over the last 8-10 years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrstm8ed View Post
You are either dealing with a bad IAC valve or a possible vacuum leak. And NO need/nor should you soak the T/B in gasoline unless you're stripping it down for a rebuild and I don't even think they set them up for that anymore.

Furthermore you're changing too many things at one time and may have an issue of identifying the sole issue.

Do the IAC valve first. Throw the berrymans afterwards just for a good cleaning and I recommend it once every 6-9 months especially if you're one of those folks who put the cheapest shit gas you can find cause you think your saving some money from it..
I've already got a new IAC motor ready to go. Rock Auto $45.

The spacial tolerances in an IAC valve are in the thousandth of inches. It could be that spraying TB cleaner in through the TB on several prior occasions may have contributed to a partially blocked/clogged IAC valve. When you spray TB cleaner into a TB, it dissolves the offending residue in the TB. Now what you got is a solution of TB cleaner mixed with dissolved residue, and that concoction gets pulled into the IAC valve when you start the engine. Where once air only passed through the IAC valve, now there is a film of TB residue in the IAC valve. I think

I have already thought of/planned on installing the IAC motor first to see if that resolves the idle issue. But, I also already got the new injectors and the new valve cover gaskets for when I go in to fixing the leaky spark plug tubes. So I'ma be taking the TB completely off at some point and I will be submersing it for a total soak. I'm gonna get the TB as thoroughly cleaned as possible before I put everything back together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrstm8ed View Post
If the vehicle is stalling, the biggest culprit is usually the IAC. Vacuum lines would usually give you a higher idle and or a rough idle. Very few things I can think of at the moment would "stall" out the truck in leak form.
Thanks for the input.
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  #5  
Old 09-19-2018, 07:53 PM
Dirtman Dirtman is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Just a heads up, ford puts teflon coatings on their throttle bodies. Using anything but 'coating safe throttle body cleaner' can remove the coating and cause more issues. If you screw up the coating your only option is to buy a new throttle body. The CRC stuff is safe. I would never recommend gasoline, brake cleaner, carb cleaner or anything else harsh. You wont need to soak it. The teflon coating makes the gunk come right off, just spray and wipe. Use an old toothbrush a bit for the hard to reach spots and your done.

Last edited by Dirtman; 09-19-2018 at 07:59 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-19-2018, 11:18 PM
Undrstm8ed Undrstm8ed is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CP30 View Post
That's pretty cost effective considering that regular cheapo gas usage probably saved me $1000 over the last 8-10 years.
Use to have the same mentality however, the progressive loss of power, damage as you're indicating, and the fact that as I run premium fuel in my 351K+ 93' 4.0L is I get on average about 14-17 miles more out of a tank of gas and although a few miles short of an average "per gal" measurement, I still get to enjoy the overall better performance afforded to me from the get go.

And to be honest, just MY particular outlook example.. a complete fill up on my 17gal yesterday was at $3.36g Premium vs 3.07 cheap gas here in Vegas.

3.36 x 17 = $57.12
3.07 x 17 = $52.19
-------------------
Saved $4.93 - $3.36g extra mileage = Actual savings $ 1.57

I bet you waste more than a $1.57 twice a weeks worth in gas than whats worth putting into a college savings fund.. lol saving a $1000 dollars spread out in pocket change over 8-10 years, yet not going towards anything investment wise to actually MAKE you any real money on the back end isnt saving money.. thats just squandering. You dont buy double rolls of toilet paper just to unroll them onto old rolls and have single sheet based shit-tickets in your rest room do you? LOL just giving you shit, NO pun intended!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtman View Post
Just a heads up, ford puts teflon coatings on their throttle bodies. Using anything but 'coating safe throttle body cleaner' can remove the coating and cause more issues. If you screw up the coating your only option is to buy a new throttle body. The CRC stuff is safe. I would never recommend gasoline, brake cleaner, carb cleaner or anything else harsh. You wont need to soak it. The teflon coating makes the gunk come right off, just spray and wipe. Use an old toothbrush a bit for the hard to reach spots and your done.
I remembered that today around lunch and figured I'll just edit it..

LOL

Good looking out for the guy.
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Last edited by Undrstm8ed; 09-19-2018 at 11:22 PM.
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  #7  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:29 AM
CP30 CP30 is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtman View Post
Just a heads up, ford puts teflon coatings on their throttle bodies. Using anything but 'coating safe throttle body cleaner' can remove the coating and cause more issues. If you screw up the coating your only option is to buy a new throttle body. The CRC stuff is safe. I would never recommend gasoline, brake cleaner, carb cleaner or anything else harsh. You wont need to soak it. The teflon coating makes the gunk come right off, just spray and wipe. Use an old toothbrush a bit for the hard to reach spots and your done.
Thanks. That's the information I was after.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrstm8ed View Post
MY particular outlook example.. a complete fill up on my 17gal yesterday was at $3.36g Premium vs 3.07 cheap gas here in Vegas.
Gas in Richmond VA is around $2.59 for regular and like $3.20 for premium. That's around .60 cents higher per gallon. Reg gas saves me about $20 a week. When I switch out injectors that'll prob boost my gas mileage a good deal also. It works out ok.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Undrstm8ed View Post
Vacuum lines would usually give you a higher idle and or a rough idle. Very few things I can think of at the moment would "stall" out the truck in leak form.
One thing about that. Start your engine and pull the vacuum line going from your intake manifold to your PCV valve, or pull the little vacuum line going from your valve cover to the air duct in between the MAF sensor and the throttle body and watch your engine stumble so bad it stalls out. Yeah a "leak" is not gonna be as massive as a completely open line on one end, but still.. just sayin. Low enough vacuum on one or more those lines and your engine will deffinitely stumble
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Old 03-13-2019, 09:15 PM
CP30 CP30 is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Six Months Later.....

Found the problem to my idle issue. The whole thing is detailed right here in this thread:

2003 2.3l Fuel Pressure Range?

Turned out to be a vacuum leak on the hose going from the PCV valve to the intake manifold AND a failing fuel pump giving the fuel rail less and less pressure.

Got a new fuel pump module and fixed the leaking vacuum hose and no more idle issues and no more system lean codes.
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  #9  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:28 PM
Dirtman Dirtman is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Those oem pcv lines are trash. They break if you look at them wrong and are a pain in the ass to remove or reinstall. Next time you do the pcv valve get yourself a 3 foot length of 5/8" silicone high heat vacuum line on amazon (costs about 8 bucks). Remove the factory half plastic half rubber contraption, throw it in your neighbors yard and replace it with the single piece of silicone. Doesn't hurt to add a catch can as well given the terrible location of the pcv valve and the inherent lack of proper maintenance.
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  #10  
Old 03-15-2019, 01:22 PM
CP30 CP30 is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtman View Post
Those oem pcv lines are trash. They break if you look at them wrong and are a pain in the ass to remove or reinstall. Next time you do the pcv valve get yourself a 3 foot length of 5/8" silicone high heat vacuum line on amazon (costs about 8 bucks). Remove the factory half plastic half rubber contraption, throw it in your neighbors yard and replace it with the single piece of silicone. Doesn't hurt to add a catch can as well given the terrible location of the pcv valve and the inherent lack of proper maintenance.
I actually used fuel line hose. I got rid of the original pcv to intake hose about a year ago. I would hear this weird squealing sound sometimes during cold temperatures when the engine was idleing and it turned out the hose at the intake side was partially collapsing and vibrating and causing the sound like air being let out of a baloon haha. That's when I noticed the manifold intake nipple was way bigger than the pcv nipple and made the stepdown rig. Originally i did have regular vacuum hose on my stepdown rig at the pcv nipple side and that's what broke this time but now I've made the entire rig out of fuel line hose.
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  #11  
Old 05-27-2019, 12:00 AM
Dustyt90XLT Dustyt90XLT is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

Man they make cleaner specifically for throttle bodies... not trying to play captain obvious but dont soak it in anything else without removing the IACV and TPS first.. you can clean it with TB cleaner with them attached just make sure it's completely dry before plugging them in, however whose to say its completely dry inside those electrical components until it's too late and you've shorted them out.. I just did this about a month ago.. seafoam upper engine aerosol works well too

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  #12  
Old 05-27-2019, 12:22 AM
Dustyt90XLT Dustyt90XLT is offline
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Default Re: Fixing To Remove Throttle Body For Cleaning - What Is Best Solvent?

I'd say that its prob the IACV though or on a long shot it could be the MAF.. the TPS would only really make it hesitate with a throttle blip but you can check the TPS and the MAF easily just unplug them one at a time..

MAF-you will notice a difference right away at idle when you unplug it if it's working properly, if not or if it needs cleaning there wont be much of a change(there's a specific cleaner for this at a parts store near you BE GENTLE AND DO NOT GET AGRESSIVE WITH THE TWO HEATING ELEMENTS IF YOU USE A CUETIP)

TPS-well if it's not working properly, and you have a hesitation when you snap the throttle open, it will get slightly better with less of a hesitation however you dont need to try and drive without it as it's input is combined with the MAF input and combined, along with your EGR & O2 sensor(s), they give the ECU the info it needs to get the air/fuel ratio correct for peak performance and Unfortunately crippling emmissions..

If you have an EGR issue you can replace it or you can simply make a plate from sheet metal using the gasket as a template to block the input of scavenged exhaust gases from the EGR.. this is the only way to defeat it without having it deleted from your ECU all together which will be pricey if you can even get someone to do it.. you cannot just simply unplug it.. <-from experience

Anyhow I see this thread is somewhat old but hey someone else might need this.. all learned from trial and error.. might save someone else the time and money

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