Truck doesn't start, but cranks.. help. - Page 2

NewShockerGuy · #16 01-18-2018, 08:40 PM

Couple more pictures.

-Nigel

tomw0 · #17 01-19-2018, 07:20 AM

If I perceive properly, it appears your tail pipe(the pipe after the muffler) is not there. If so, you are bathing your chassis in hot/warm humid air. Mixed with other exhaust gases. Not good for longevity.
Were it mine, and I had access, and some tools, I'd try to chip off the loose scrabble rust down to something approaching metal, and then apply a 'rust stop', such as the Rustoleum product available at Wally. It comes in regular spray cans, ~8oz containers and quart size(I think). Get the loose stuff off, and paint with the coating. Then spray with Rustoelum primer and some regular paint.
If you slow it down, it will last longer. If you hit it with a hammer, you want it to not deform. If it bends, you may need to think about welding on some reinforcement.
I would not clean things up to the point I could remove nuts and bolts, but enough to slow down the oxidation and prevent creation of more rust.
Now that you have the bed unbolted, it will make attacking the rust a lot easier.
You might consider getting one of the Harbor Freight $9.99 spin-a-ma-things. Grinder? They also have a $7-9 kit of 'twisted wire' brushes, and stuff, you attach to use on rusted equipment. I did the bed of my Ranger using the grinder and the twisted wire 'brush', and it got down to 'bare' metal pretty quick. Mine was getting down to the primer coating, all the Red was gone, and it was starting to show surface rust through the primer. Got it totally close to bare metal in several sessions of about 15-20 minutes each. Wear a face mask. It's messy.
You can get a muffler that fits a 302 Maverick in addition to fitting your 2.3, it flows a lot better... and a new tailpipe is less than $20(or, was.). Mine was Holy near the tailgate, and turned the tailgate into a rusty mess. Yours seems to be getting the chassis.
tom

NewShockerGuy · #18 01-19-2018, 08:31 PM

Appreciate all the info!

Going to clean up the rust over the weekend. I got the bed off with the help of my neighbor. Wife wasn't strong enough to lift the one side..lol

Checked the rest of the frame and honestly it's not bad at all. I've seen MUCH worse on here. With the bed off I have access to everything.

I ordered a gallon this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1AUFI5NHGNZ61

I'm going to do the entire frame and the bottom of the bed of the truck since that's off... might as well.

From the pictures it doesn't look like I have an exhaust but I do and it sticks out past the fender. See pictures below.

Overall I'm more at ease now seeing the rest of the frame. I was imagining rot everywhere but luckily not the case. Good old cleaning and then paint it up!

-Nigel

NewShockerGuy · #19 01-20-2018, 10:44 PM

Welp wanted to update.

Tested the old pump with a computer psu that I used to test out 12v stuff. Touched the 12v/ground lead. Nothing. No noise no buzz...etc. Tried it a couple more times, out of all the times I tried, only once did it buzz and then it stopped not to turn on again. Safe to say it's done.

Put in the new fuel pump. Went in a lot easier than the old one coming out. Plugged everything back in and while I did that I changed out the fuel filter just for safe measure.
Turn the truck to on but not crank and I did not hear the fuel pump at all.. Did it a second time and still didn't hear it... thought, GREAT still not fixed.. Said F it and cranked it. Started right up.

SUCCESS!

Did that multiple times and it started each time no problem. I even waiting some time and then cranked it again just to see. Started right up. Before it would hesitate somewhat... I suspect this was the first signs that the pump was going bad. I'm just thankful that it didn't quit while I was at work in the parking garage as I wouldn't have been able to get the truck out since tow trucks can't fit in the garage, or left me stranded on a road...etc.

I must say that the new motocraft assembly is much quieter than the old pump. You can't hear it, it's silent pretty much. Don't know if that's good or bad.

I'm replacing the fuel filler neck and hose since that's rusted and I have the bed off, might as well. Get my new bed bolts and clips next week so in the mean time I am going to paint the entire frame and bottom of bed with Chassis saver paint.

Stock pump was 17 years old with 185k miles on it.

w00t w00t!

-Nigel

rno5 · #20 01-21-2018, 07:08 AM

My 1992 ford ranger would do the same thing then one night I had a friend try to start it and the battery cable was arking out moved it started right up

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