Quote:
Originally Posted by spry85
Thanks for all the input Tom, their recommendation didn't make any sense to me either. They claim that they think the cycling is from a worn out clutch in which my reply was then why don't you just change out the clutch instead of the whole compressor and they said well the compressor might be worn out from engaging/disengaging so much that it would be better to just replaced the whole compressor while you're at it. I said alright thanks, grab my keys and left. Haha As far as the pressure readings that you mentioned, I have no clue but I think I'm just gunna invest in some gauges and dig into this myself. I hate that you can trust mechanics anymore, I literally walked away with the feeling like they were just loading there shotgun and shooting from the hip lol
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Theyre full of it. Never take your vehicle there again. Follow tomw0's advice which is exactly what I would want to see. If the pressures are right, I would be looking at the pressure switches (unlikely) or a worn clutch assembly (much more likely). Usually pressure switches work or dont, but I've seen stranger things.
As for leaks, use refrigerant with uv dye (and only uv dye- no stop leak crap) and borrow a UV light to try and find the leak. You will likely need to evacuate the system, replace the part, have the system vacuumed, then recharge by weight. Recharging by PSI (using gauges) can work, but charging by weight is the right way. When my truck sat for 8 months it slowly leaked pressure until it was short cycling like yours is- I hooked up my hi/low gauges and charged using the cheapest R134a I could get- its still working fine 3 years later. Basically unless the leak is big enough where you're losing all your refrigerant multiple times in a season, generally its more cost effective to just throw a can of R134a at it once a year.