Okay so I'm new to actually posting on forums so bare with me , but here's the run down.... gonna be extremely as descriptive as possible. HERE WE GOOOO

VEHICLE:
94 ford ranger 4 cyl 2.3L
I've owned for a month now
PROBLEM:
Engine hesitation on take off
Very low power when driving
Must floor it 95% of the time
HISTORY/INFO:
Got the car last month , when I bought her she had a bad bog down issue that would make it dang near impossible to drive anywhere on the actual road ways. (Still did it anyways) drove her an hour home. Randomly bogging down while holding consistent throttle, could barely take off and would get random moment I couldn't accelerate to save my life.
Coolant temp doesn't seem to work... but it moves from below cold to on the cold line after driving a while
THINGS IVE DONE:
(First things that were done prior to me purchasing in attempt to fix bog /no power)
Previous owner replaced
New coil packs
New plugs
New maf sensor
Changed throttle body (used)
Changed intake manifold (used)
(Things I've done since I got her )
Replaced fuel filter
Drained the tank
Replaced the tps
Cleaned out the throttle body
Cleaned the intake manifold
Cleaned the maf
Put new calipers and brakes on the front
Cut the catalytic converter off and replaced with pipe

Checked all the voltage on sensors tps /maf /egr
(Here's where things got weird)
My 12v constant reads 14v (maybe a wiring issue/but I know the alternator puts out 14v while charging)
I was testing out my voltage for my maf sensor
Had the positive probe in the 12v constant hole
And the negative probe in the signal wire hole
And turned it to 20k on the ohm setting
And the truck immediately started idling better
I've been driving it with the multimeter hooked up still and cut on because it's my work truck , since then I have tried a different maf I got from the junk yard. Still has the same issue unless I cut the multimeter into 20k ohms . The truck idles better and doesn't bog down like it did when I purchased it. But I still have no power ! Esp during take off I have to floor it and then clutch and let off to take off. And she still wants to die on her face. Once she's going on the highway about 45-50 I can be in third and get what I believe is normal power but then shift into fourth and unless I'm all the way tached out In third. I can floor it in fourth and will actually start going slower.
The truck seems to reach high rpms but it doesn't go as fast as the truck sounds.
When driving I hear a whirling sound that sounds like the tires running on the road but it stops when I let off the pedal. I tried a different egr sensor as well. Also from the junk yard and it seemed to do worse then the one that came on there. So any one have some advice for me ? Sorry for long post. I just wanted to give as much info as possible.

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Also it's hard to get her started takes usually 2 cranks and she barely turns over and idles really rough until you let off the clutch then the battery meter jumps up and the car idles "normal"

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Obviously getting terrible gas mileage with this as well, and most of my dash lights are burnt out so my check engine light doesn't work. Currently working on getting that taken care of this weekend so maybe I can check what codes I got throwing around


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You can check the codes with your meter even if the light on the cluster is broken.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/OBD_I.shtml

Just curious - have you tested fuel pressure?

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1999 5.0/4R70W/4406 Ext. Cab

No I haven't tested fuel pressure and do not have a analog multimeter. But I should have a bulb for my mil light today. So tomorrow at the latest I will have some check engine codes. Cause I'm tired of trying to troubleshoot without them (why didn't I buy a 96) lol


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Most people would have started with basic diagnostics, something that is not mentioned anywhere on that long list of spray-n-prey part replacements. Parts that according to the what's been done list, were never proven to be bad before being replaced, so the predictable outcome was the result. With this said, there's just one place to start on this one, there's the advice.

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

Sorry I wasn't clear enough with everything that I stated above (hint my first disclaimer at the top)
Everything that was replaced outside of regular tune up parts was due to bad voltage readings when running sensor tests.



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Did you specifically find any problems during the first part of properly doing diagnostics, and replace them before moving on to the next phase, which would be pulling codes? And when you pulled codes, you did note that there are three groups of codes that apply to the EEC-IV engine management system you have, and that it's VERY important to follow not just the correct sequence in resolving codes withing each group, but you MUST follow the correct sequence of code diagnostics and problem resolution for EACH code within a group, one code at a time, fix, clear codes, test, and if another exists, repeat this process until there is a code free condition. If you did not do this, and if you didn't do the first step in diagnostics before digging into code(s), then the rest was pretty pointless. FWIW, while possible for all these parts to be "bad", the probability of all of them being bad at one is about nil, and was proven by replacing them and the problem not being fixed. With that said advice would be to do the diagnostics starting with a THOROUGH visual (and correct any and all problems and marginal items), then continue on through the diagnostic process. do NOT buy any part until diagnostics prove for a fact that replacing it will fix the problem. If you don't have the FSM and assuming codes are found, it may really help to get a copy. This because, the diagnostic flow charts for resolving codes in the shop manual are easy to follow and make diagnostics a very systematic, organized process.

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

I agree with Cowboy, you need to start with basic diagnostics.

If this were my truck that I did not know the history on I would start with a compression test.

Post your compression gauge readings for each cylinder.

Next would be connecting a fuel pressure test gauge, check fuel pressure with the key on engine off, then test it with the engine running.

Shut the engine off and watch the gauge to see if it drops rapidly, post your results.

If the above two test are good obtain and connect a vacuum gauge to a central port on the intake.

Once you get to this point let us know and we can further advise you from there.

Yes if you have spare time getting the check engine light operational will be helpful.

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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

1) test fuel pressure. Pump failure is common. ($20 for the gauge.)
2)check for codes?
3) could the TB have jumped? Inspect the TB. Is it old or new? Is it loose?
4) clean grounds on ICM. The ICM could be bad? You can run a temp ground jumper from ICM to body, does it run better? If you pull the ICM off you need to put new grease behind it?

You can buy an OBD- I code reader for about $25

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2004 Ext Cab, 4WD, 4.0, Auto, 154k. (4.0 engine is out of a 2009 Ranger w/96k) ( as of 7/1/2017)

2004 Ranger, Ext Cab, 2WD, 3.0, 5 speed , 4WABS, crank windows, no cruise, Edge 116k.(6/5,2014) (SOLD).
1999 Ford Ranger, Reg Cab, 2.5, 5 speed, 2WD, no AC, 150k (SOLD).

Okay i am picking up the fuel pressure gauge now. (Otw there )
I have the bulb now so I can check codes (coming shortly must get star keys)
I've taken the tb off and clean it and stuff so I don't think it's jumped.
What is the icm that your referring to (I'm new to ford still) but I was going to check my grounds as well today and add some ground straps.


I was not aware that you can get a obd1 code reader where do they have this ?


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Obviously I put everything down that I did. So the sarcastic questioning is pointless. Good day sir. You are here to shit talk not help.


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Really? When you find codes and don't understand how to address them without dragging it out for weeks on end + mega frustration and either have trouble clearing them and/or new ones pop up, and begin to wonder why it matters so f*cking much to follow the sequence I spelled out for you, you'll see how shit free the advice you got actually is. There's more that could be said on focused diagnostics but oh well. Good day to you too.

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

Okay bud. I'll shoot you a message whenever I fix it and don't gotta go thru all that,
I still daily the truck so no frustration here. I have 3 other cars.




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Ok I am lost here, at what point did Cowboy deserve your crappy attitude?

I read and his post a few times, sure he did his best to try and help you.

Perhaps he is a bit rough around the edges like we all get when trying to help others online yet you sir are out of line and out of luck getting any real help from this Forum.

Good luck, your gonna need it with that attitude.

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2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

I'm sorry if calling someone bud is crappy attitude in comparison to the crappy attitude and shit talking fuck storm I got in reply to my uninterest in talking to him.

Good luck getting help from anyone in this forum cause none of you apparently know what your actually tAlking about. Can't read. And just wanna spout your "superiority complex" around to people like I'm devastated I can't get your help. There are no other avenues I can take. Woe is me. Go cry somewhere else.


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Mind you loss is the key word cause apparently you didn't read at all


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If you don't like the advice you're getting here, and you DID ask for advice, then instead of complaining about the advice that you sought, I would highly encourage you try somewhere else. In fact, I would strongly encourage you to go post over on pirate4x4.com Believe me, not only do they know what they are talking about but they help those with special needs and advice and they don't mince their words in the least.

*Are you related to a forum member with the screen name "Scottydog"

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2004 Ranger FX4 Level II, 5R55E, Sonic Blue Pearl

Proudly JAP/RICE free since March 2000

I never complained till someone cried about my response of telling you I wasn't interested in your help.


Btw trucks fixed.
Was the fuel pump hose was ruptured.
Replaced and fixed.


But I'm so glad I did a leak down test
And back pressure
And all these other things that had to be done in order to fix the problem.
This thread is now useless. Like your comments. And I won't be using this or any forum related to it again.

I do know Scotty dog.
We both railed your moms last night there missure cry baby.


PLEASE BAN ME NOW BEFORE ALL THESE PUSSIES CRY A RIVER THAT FLOODS ALL THE WAY TO MY BACKWOODS HOUSE


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