Long story short, (don't let that fool you, after explaining everything, it turned into a long enough story haha), I was driving it just fine then parked it for the night & bam, it would never turn over. Tried to fix it myself but couldn't so I had a mechanic friend tow it & work on it. It ran decent except the fact that I had to drive around with the MAF sensor unhooked at all times, he said for me to go buy one, install it, & hook it back up & it should run good as new & the CEL will go off. That didn't happen. Still had to keep the MAF unplugged for it to barely run. Then one day it just would not start for anything. Had another guy work on it & he replaced the new MAF I put on, saying it was bad straight from Auto zone & he also replaced the idler control valve or something like that (I believe that's what it's called) it's right beside the intake manifold with a little black wire connector going to it near the firewall of my truck. Well it ran & drove fine for the 15 miles I drove home then I had surgery & it sat for a month. Now I am back to the very original problem. MAF unplugged just to get it started, have to keep my feet on all 3 pedals just so it won't cut off at a stoplight & it seems the motor is struggling more than before this happened the first time. I have to hold my foot on the gas barely when I turn the key over & then it'll spit & sputter & as I push the gas a little more, it Revs right up but still running shitty. I know this is a long ass post but it is everything I could think of right now that it's doing that I could explain to you to try & get some help. I've spent enough money on fixing it. I'm running outta options & this is my D.D. Any help, comments, suggestions, or questions to ask to help is very greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.!

__________________
1993 Ford Ranger XLT, 5-speed, blue, 2.3L, regular cab
Mods: recovered headliner, throttle cable mod, painted door panels, explorer visors, lights under hood
Coming soon: ohc install, repaint dash, bucket seat swap, center console install, new to me gauge cluster

Is the new Mass air flow sensor installed correctly? Did you look at the arrow on the MAF?

Are there any codes in the computer is so what are they?

When the check engine light was on what code did you have ?

__________________
2002 Ford Ranger 2 Dr Standard cab 2.3 5 SPD 7.5 373 gears

Yeah it's put on the right way, & as far as codes idk. Every time I get someone to hook up to it so I can find out it doesn't work. According to one place, my truck isn't sending out any info to their scanner or something​ like that. & My CEL is still on. It's never went off at all. Every now & then when I'm driving the CEL will start flickering but then go steady again

__________________
1993 Ford Ranger XLT, 5-speed, blue, 2.3L, regular cab
Mods: recovered headliner, throttle cable mod, painted door panels, explorer visors, lights under hood
Coming soon: ohc install, repaint dash, bucket seat swap, center console install, new to me gauge cluster

This might help you...
Have you checked fuel pressure?

__________________
1995 Ranger XLT 3.0L OBDII
Trans: A4LD (E) 2WD
Rear: 7.5 / 3.45 NL LHD
Tires:GY P235 75/R15 (orig 225 70/R14)
Long Bed, 20 Gal Tank
Up to 229,900 miles

When you first start the engine, the idle speed should be higher than normal, hot idle. The gizmo that does that is the IAC - Idle Air Control - which keeps the idle steady when the A/C or power steering add loads, or if an auto, when you put it in gear.
If you do not have a 'cold fast idle', I'd check the IAC.
If you have problems accelerating, I'd check the MAF and the fuel pressure regulator.
I'd check the fuel pressure just because it seems to be lacking in pressure, and possibly volume.
You should be able to pull your codes using a VOM, or perhaps a flashing SES/MIL on the dash when you jumper the connector under hood. You'll have to count flashes to know the numbers being displayed. If your SES/MIL come on, the computer is doing something rather than being dead. If you have EFI, the computer runs that also. In addition, it diddles with the ignition timing. You can check that it is doing that with a timing light.
The shop may not have a tool to check older systems, or may not want to do the job as it takes brains to decode the flashes, write them down, and read what is causing the blinks. The newer systems do all that, and they may not have a reader that will work with your system. You can buy devices to connect that will flash and beep as the codes are delivered, but a VOM or the SES/MIL will work at lower cost.
tom

I've done the self test thing a year ago & got a lot of codes from what I could​ tell but I can't remember what it said they were. I know my MAF comes into play with a lot of it bc of it being unplugged in order for me to drive it. Sitting still at a light I have to keep my feet on all 3 pedals with barely pushing the gas so it won't sputter & cut off on me. & Also when I go to start it, if I just turn the key like normal it never fully turns over, it will start to but then acts as if there's not enough gas going to it. But as soon as I push the gas while cranking it, it will start after a few bog downs.( If that makes sense.)

__________________
1993 Ford Ranger XLT, 5-speed, blue, 2.3L, regular cab
Mods: recovered headliner, throttle cable mod, painted door panels, explorer visors, lights under hood
Coming soon: ohc install, repaint dash, bucket seat swap, center console install, new to me gauge cluster