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Old 03-17-2017, 10:37 PM
Rycerz Rycerz is offline
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Default duratec need some help diagnosing issues

Ok so some of you may already know but I just done a motor swap in my 04 ranger. I pulled out the knocking motor and put in an 02 that seemed to run just fine. I used the 02 intake manifold(flappers removed) and every thing else other than the block and sensors on the block 04. Since I got this motor running I have noticed I have a cel and it's way down on power. The check engine light is for low cranking voltage(starts just fine) and just low voltage. The alternator checked out great on the test(14.3v) and it has a brand new battery that has never died and cranks just fine. Later I noticed I'm blowing black droplets out the tail pipe and it smells like it's running a little rich. It did have treated and diluted bad gas in it when I first started driving it but I have been through 3 tanks now. Intermittently it blows a little bit of white smoke out the tail pipe. But it constantly blows out them black droplets and smoke(I will upload a pic). It burns about a quart of oil every 200miles. Dry compression checks out from 1-4 at 145,152,155,148(for two compression strokes) even though #1's within tolerance I went ahead and done a wet compression test on it and it came back at 147. I have a brand new distributer,spark plugs,and wires on it. Very occasionally it goes from having less power than a Lima with a cracked head(which is how it runs normally) to actuall full power(according to my butt). The cel half the time isn't on when I first start the truck and will come on about half a minute afterwards or when I start moving. Twice now it has gone completely limp and just wants to die. Both times I turn off the truck turn her back on and boom just fine again. I have checked all of my ground straps and connections twice(there's a lot so I could do it again). I have not done a leakdown test. If anyone can give me any insight to what motors issue may be that would be lovely. (If it's top end related I do have another head in storage). Thank you all in advance.
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04 Ranger single cab reg bed 2.3l Duratec row your own gears(manual transmission)
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Old 03-18-2017, 07:21 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: duratec need some help diagnosing issues

In a lot of cases, when something 'goes bad, but resets after cycling the key to OFF and back to ON', it is an electrical problem. Your compression readings are all in the ballpark, so I'd suspect things other than the block, pistons, rings, heads, valves.
EXCEPT: It burns about a quart of oil every 200miles.
That points to rings, valve guides, or cylinder walls. Or, possibly stuck oil control rings. The PCV could also be plugged or gummy, letting manifold vacuum suck oil out of the crankcase along with blowby fumes. A clogged oil separator could also be passing oil through the PCV.
Have you checked the fuel pump relay? Looked for a dirty MAF? Bad ground? Disconnected wires that were not tightened?
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Old 03-24-2017, 08:50 AM
Rycerz Rycerz is offline
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Default

Pcv is good. Oil separator? I haven't installed a catch can if you are talking about what I thought was called the breather plate for the pcv I cleaned that whenever I replaced the pcv. Maf looked good I went ahead and new one in there anyways that I had laying around and I still have the issue. Is there any way I could check for a bad valve guide cause I do have a head I can put on there I just don't want to go through the work to put it on to realize that isn't my issue. I'm hoping I don't have bad rings. I went through checked all grounds loosened them and retightened them and I still have the electrical issue those dang electrical gremlins 😑. Sorry for the late reply I have been sick.
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:55 AM
Rycerz Rycerz is offline
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Default Re: duratec need some help diagnosing issues

I haven't been on in a while had a lot going on but I have found the electrical issue and am now actually getting diagnostics the fuse for the pcm was dirty as all gets out I replaced it and then the cel went away for a little while I figured let it run through its cycles and the cel will come back again which it did for low coolant tempurature and the downstream o2 so I replaced the cylinder head temperature sensor(didn't fix the lack of a temperature reading) and I'm working on getting another o2 and figuring out how I'm going to get to the coolant temp sensor in the back of the motor(haven't put to much thought into it yet as I have had a lot going on)
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