fixing a 98 ranger for a friend, 2.5l 5 speed manual thats been sitting for 7 years.

Work done:
new fuel pump, new fuel filter, fuel tank removed and cleaned
injectors cleaned
new plugs (8) new wire set (8) new ignition coils (2)
new O2 sensors both upstream and downstream, new muffler
new upper intake manifold gasket, new EGR gasket, new exhaust manifold gasket.
new main seal and transmission rear shaft seal

new clutch cylinder both master and slave.

radiator flush and fill, oil change (0w20 at his request, will be changed to 5w30 after its finally running properly) new oil filter.

new stainless brake lines all 4 sides and down the frame

issue: after the radiator flush, oil change, new pump and filter, new plugs wires and coils the motor was tested, started and ran without majors issues except a small headgasket leak on the left rear side.

i was unable to engage the clutch and on inspection the slave was wet and the master was leaking fluid when the pedal was depressed.

transmission removed, slave replaced and transmission reinstalled (truck jacked up and set on ramps and jackstands, me on a tarp on my back under the truck wresting the thing out and back in. clutch alignment tool used to align the clutch plate when reinstalling after changing the main seal.

i am still unable to fully bleed the clutch and remove all the air via bench bleeding the master before installing it, going to attempt to vacuum bleed it next.

as far as i can tell the slave cylinder will move the required distance to engage the clutch but the pedal is very soft.

major issue:

after reinstalling the transmission the engine will crank and start but its loping and running very rough, engine surges and stalls before dying.

when starting the engine will twist violently in its mounts and shake roughly.

fuel filter was installed in reverse by accident, filter removed and installed properly after the transmission was reinstalled but before starting the engine the second time.

i believed it was an O2 sensor as when i was installing the transmission the upstream connector for the sensor was accidentally pinched between the block and bellhousing and ended up getting crushed ( the sensors connector, not the plugin connector)

after changing both upstream and downstream O2 sensors the issue remains.

i own a 81 b2000 pushing 1.8 million miles now which the ranger is loosely based off of so its is similar enough for me to do most of the work and a chiltons guide got me the rest.


work still to be performed: clean MAF and IAC.

where did i go wrong on here, it has to be something during the transmission reinstall.

possibly transmission grabbing when attempting to start but i am unable to tell.

i can get a video of it tomorrow so you can see exactly when its doing if needed and add it to this post.

after the engine dies theres a sound almost like draining water up front, not at the radiator but somewhere in the engine, possibly the waterpump.

Given one wire was pinched, it is possible that another wire has problems. I'd check that the engine is grounded properly to the cab. There is at least one bare woven-wire ground strap from the engine to the cab, likely at the rear of the cylinder head. If you don't connect, the voltages would float from an unknown ground level, and confuse everything involved. The computer would be fed 'different' data, and react accordingly.
Worth a check.
tom

i did have to remove the upper grounding strap to remove the exhaust manifold but that was when i had to change the upstream O2 sensor, the engine was choking out before then.

Many words...
...
issue: after the radiator flush, oil change, new pump and filter, new plugs wires and coils the motor was tested, started and ran without majors issues except a small headgasket leak on the left rear side.
...
new clutch bits
...
after reinstalling the transmission the engine will crank and start but its loping and running very rough, engine surges and stalls before dying.
...

i believed it was an O2 sensor as when i was installing the transmission the upstream connector for the sensor was accidentally pinched between the block and bellhousing and ended up getting crushed ( the sensors connector, not the plugin connector)
....

Obviously something happened between when you had it running with a head gasket leak and now.
The area of work was the clutch/bell housing, and resulted in a pinched 'something'(I do not understand 'sensor connector not the plugin') getting squished.
The wires reversed or cut, or smashed such that they are shorted together. Cain't tell from here.
You might try disconnecting the O2 sensor wires, making sure the disconnected wires are not damaged or shorted, and attempt another start up. You may have done some damage to the computer if the wires made contact and fed the 'heater' power back to the sensor input. Sensor produces volts from ~.1 to ~.9V, and the heater is likely 12V...
tom


Added:
Have you connected a code reader or scan tool? If there was a computer problem, it might show up in a scan or retrieval.

I noticed the o2 was crushed and removed it before attempting to start the motor

By plugin i mean the wire end of the sensor itself was crushed not the end it plugs into that goes back into the splice. Did not crush the powered connector.

I said headgasket, ment valve cover gasket.

I have cleaned the MAF and IAC, no change.

I had to use his beam wrench instead of my click wrench to torque the flywheel and clutch plate on, would improper torque cause an issue similar to this?

Recheck the egr valve and make sure it's tight, check the heated o2 sensor fuse, and all vacuum lines.

__________________
2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

A 'beam type' torque wrench was all that was available for many many years, and they will function properly if you use them properly.
Being a bit off on the flywheel or pressure plate torque will have ZERO effect on how the engine runs.
You must have removed the transmission, and also the rear transmission support crossmember. That would allow the engine to 'hang down' on its mounts. The hanging might have stretched some wire(s) causing loss of connection or failed wiring.
I'd consider putting a jack under the tailhousing, removing the support, and allowing the engine to droop once again, while watching to see if any wires get stretched or damaged. If all you did was the above, and that caused engine malfunction, the only way is a damaged connector or sensor that got squished(in addition to the O2 sensor connector). That's where I'd look.
tom

Are you sure the engine is running rough or are vibrations more noticeable?

When you pulled the tranny you could have strained the motor mounts when the engine leans forward and maybe tore one of them. Bad motor mounts give rough idles and violent movements in the engine.

__________________
Automotive Electronics Engineer
2000 XLT 2.5L A/T
Mods:
Explorer OHC
Explorer Autodim Mirrors w/ Autolamps
Explorer Sport White Face Gauges

was finally able to get a video of it trying to run, hope this helps diagnose the problem.

To me I'm thinking major vacuum leak.


Just to be clear state what was done from the time it was running fine to where you are now.

__________________
Automotive Electronics Engineer
2000 XLT 2.5L A/T
Mods:
Explorer OHC
Explorer Autodim Mirrors w/ Autolamps
Explorer Sport White Face Gauges

transmission removed, slave cylinder replaced, main seal replaced, transmission reinstalled, 2 new 02 sensors installed, fuel filter installed in correct direction.

clutch bled, new brake lines installed and bled.

MAF and IAC cleaned.

I'd check the vaccum lines, pcv valve (sometimes the grommet is worn and the valve comes loose). If all fail check lower intake for leaks...

2x on vacuum lines.

__________________
Jeff

Weirton WV
1995 Ranger 3.0 Splash 3.73 limited slip.

Disconnect the O2 sensors and see what it does. Should run fine in Open loop mode.

Have you tried keeping it running until it has warmed up? What does it do then?

__________________
Automotive Electronics Engineer
2000 XLT 2.5L A/T
Mods:
Explorer OHC
Explorer Autodim Mirrors w/ Autolamps
Explorer Sport White Face Gauges

cant keep it going long enough to warm up.