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Old 02-21-2017, 11:45 AM
hellrods ranger hellrods ranger is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 16
Default 2.3 runs weird when warm

im going to try and keep this as concise, and to the point as possible. 1988 2.3 ranger with 254xxx miles, 5 spd.

got it for my first vehicle, trying to work out a problem. ive had it since august of 2016, and it sat in my grampaws yard for a few years before that.

anyways heres my problem, i drive along when its warm out, bout 75 degrees. all of a sudden i get a lack of power, and on lack of power i try and press the pedal some more, such as to get up a hill, well then the engine cuts out until i let out of the throttle, and if i happen to leave my foot in the same spot where the engine cuts, my revs drop down and i get what sounds like all 4 cyls misfiring.

so lets also keep in mind this only happens when its a nice day out. i drove this daily over winter, now its getting warm out again and being a pain.

let me also say this "misfire" happens no matter where i am, only as long as the engine is at operating temp and its moderately warm out.

to restate, my ranger will run and drive until its at operating temp, then it loses power. shortly after, if i just leave it in neutral and rev it, it revs fine until a certain point in the throttle where the entire engine cuts out, drops back to 1.5 grand, and sputs, coughs, misfires, etc until you let out of the pedal, then bam. idles fine again.

to add, if i shut it off and turn it back on, it temporarily goes away, and drives fine about 1/4 mile, until the proble returns again.

WHAT IN GODS NAME HAS GOTTEN INTO THIS VEHICLE. I JUST WANT SOMETHING THAT WILL RUN CORRECTLY!!!!!
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88 ford ranger 2.3 manual

new trans, calipers, pads, fuel filters, in tank pump, sending unit, map sensor,
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  #2  
Old 02-22-2017, 04:52 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 751
Default Re: 2.3 runs weird when warm

Things that can go wrong in a warmed up (closed loop) system causing an engine to fall on its face when the throttle is opened include:
1)low fuel pressure - the injectors are being controlled more closely in closed loop.
2)low fuel delivery - see above
3)faulty MAP - MAP senses manifold vacuum or engine load. YOu step o the gas, and the MAP is expected to report the drop in vacuum, thus the increased load, signalling the computer get with it, and send more fuel. Will also make the idle rough and unstable when it flickers to life and then not.
4)water in the fuel - melted due to warm weather, and allowed into the intake sock, pump, etc Will act as if you have lost 1-4 cylinders for a few seconds, and then 'come back to life' as the water 'pearls' have been passed. Sometimes noticeable after doing turns that slosh the water around to where it gets picked up by the pump.
5)spotty TPS - throttle position sensor with 'dropout' that signals the throttle position intermittently or incorrectly, leading the computer to drop fuel injector pulse time.
When warmed, and in 'closed loop', the computer uses TPS, ACT, ECT, MAP, (MAF if newer), to adjust the fuel injection time and ignition firing timing(BTDC). In open loop, it used 'fixed' values for the previous variables.
Most times the computer will adjust the injector time more finely when in closed loop, and a marginal fuel supply or problematic supply will be more noticeable.
I'd first check fuel pressure, delivery volume, and take a look at the captured fuel for water droplets at the bottom of the container. They will look similar to little bitty pearls.(not white, but shape wise)
tom
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2017, 11:28 AM
hellrods ranger hellrods ranger is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 16
Default Re: 2.3 runs weird when warm

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw0 View Post
Things that can go wrong in a warmed up (closed loop) system causing an engine to fall on its face when the throttle is opened include:
1)low fuel pressure - the injectors are being controlled more closely in closed loop.
2)low fuel delivery - see above
3)faulty MAP - MAP senses manifold vacuum or engine load. YOu step o the gas, and the MAP is expected to report the drop in vacuum, thus the increased load, signalling the computer get with it, and send more fuel. Will also make the idle rough and unstable when it flickers to life and then not.
4)water in the fuel - melted due to warm weather, and allowed into the intake sock, pump, etc Will act as if you have lost 1-4 cylinders for a few seconds, and then 'come back to life' as the water 'pearls' have been passed. Sometimes noticeable after doing turns that slosh the water around to where it gets picked up by the pump.
5)spotty TPS - throttle position sensor with 'dropout' that signals the throttle position intermittently or incorrectly, leading the computer to drop fuel injector pulse time.
When warmed, and in 'closed loop', the computer uses TPS, ACT, ECT, MAP, (MAF if newer), to adjust the fuel injection time and ignition firing timing(BTDC). In open loop, it used 'fixed' values for the previous variables.
Most times the computer will adjust the injector time more finely when in closed loop, and a marginal fuel supply or problematic supply will be more noticeable.
I'd first check fuel pressure, delivery volume, and take a look at the captured fuel for water droplets at the bottom of the container. They will look similar to little bitty pearls.(not white, but shape wise)
tom

thanks. ill take a closer look, but i have checked all this stuff and im doing alright.
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88 ford ranger 2.3 manual

new trans, calipers, pads, fuel filters, in tank pump, sending unit, map sensor,
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