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  #76  
Old 02-18-2017, 08:16 AM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 101
Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

No worries - I always appreciate you chiming in!
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2003 Mazda B2300
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4 Cylinder
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Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #77  
Old 02-18-2017, 08:41 AM
Tyler46 Tyler46 is offline
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That does spark a lot of my interest. So ideally a 2001.5-2003 Duratec would heat to 208 as the "normal range" (i.e. Halfway mark) on the temp gauge?

I do know there was another member a while back I got into a discussion with about the temps and the sensors, etc. I believe the UltraGauge reads actual coolant head temperature rather than the water temperature, for example 265 degrees, 300 degrees. So if the OP hooks up an UG then that would pose a problem too.
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  #78  
Old 02-18-2017, 09:12 AM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

I bought the Motorcraft RT1157, which is 190F rather than my original 208F, because I had it hammered into my head by various reading online posts that I need to replace the thermostat with Motorcraft - and ONLY Motorcraft - or else I'd eventually be sorry. And the 190F thermostat is the one recommended by Ford even for those earlier models that originally had 208F, because I believe they found that those ones were running too hot, and that 190F was optimal. I feel good about the choice to go with 190F Motorcraft RT1157.

For example, here's an interesting post on this subject:

"The 2001.5 through 2003 Ranger has a really crappy electric thermostat, and it runs the cooling system too hot. The thermostat runs from 208 to 235 deg F while cruising, and only operates as a 190 thermostat when you really get on the throttle. The problem is, Ford didnt get the programming right and the thermostat always opens too late. To make matters worse, it causes excess pressure in the cooling system which eventually causes things to break...........Fix: rent coolant system pressure checker from advance and put 16 psi on the system. Note what leaks and replace. Put new motorcraft cap on degas bottle. Go on rock auto and buy a motorcraft thermostat for a 2006 2.3l ranger and install (Fits exact no mods needed)."

https://www.reddit.com/r/fordranger/...ottom-comments
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2003 Mazda B2300
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4 Cylinder
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Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #79  
Old 02-18-2017, 11:43 AM
Soledad Soledad is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 172
Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

Yeah, ok, I had actually ordered and used a RT1157 also. I found that even though it was listed as a 190* thermostat, the CTS temp would still hang out around 220*+ or so. I now have a non-electric 2006 Motorcraft thermostat in it and my temps range from 205*-215* on a fully warmed up engine and depending on whether I'm climbing a hill or not. The cooling system on these Duratec's really confuses the heck out of me. I would love to talk to a Ford engineer who designed this system so they could explain exactly how it works.
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2003 Ranger XL | 2.3L | 2wd | 5spd manual | standard cab | short bed | 112" wheel base | 3.73 rear (open diff) | no power windows or locks but at least it's got A/C!
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  #80  
Old 02-18-2017, 12:51 PM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soledad View Post
Yeah, ok, I had actually ordered and used a RT1157 also. I found that even though it was listed as a 190* thermostat, the CTS temp would still hang out around 220*+ or so. I now have a non-electric 2006 Motorcraft thermostat in it and my temps range from 205*-215* on a fully warmed up engine and depending on whether I'm climbing a hill or not. The cooling system on these Duratec's really confuses the heck out of me. I would love to talk to a Ford engineer who designed this system so they could explain exactly how it works.
I assume you've installed a RT1194.

I wonder if the 190F refers to the temperature that the thermostat is designed to begin opening at, rather than the temp that the engine is supposed to always remain stable at?

Also, the thermostat, the Coolant Temp Sending Unit, and the CHT are all in such different places under the hood that to me it makes sense that there are temperature differences between all those different areas.

I'm not into monitoring specific temps with OBD-II like you guys are - I feel satisfied if my gauge needle climbs to the right position and stays put there. So I'm very pleased with how my RT1157 is performing. Twice in the past, I've been driving a vehicle when that temp needle starts to climb and the engine starts going weird, and the vehicle craps out. Not fun.
At this point, the gauge needle staying put where it's supposed to is enough for me.
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2003 Mazda B2300
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4 Cylinder
Automatic Transmission
Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #81  
Old 03-20-2017, 03:36 PM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

My coolant level still slowly drops, my coolant level in the overflow tank drops down to the Min level about every 30 miles driven. Yet I find no evidence of a coolant leak, and I don't have any symptoms of a failed head gasket (no smoke from tailpipe, coolant is clear, motor oil is clear, no loss of power or weird symptoms...).

The mechanic never burped my coolant system 2+ months ago after draining & refilling my coolant. He WAS in the process of burping it but I literally said to him "Can you please stop burping it" because he was revving my engine, which is a pet peeve of mine. lol.

So because my system was never burped, I really doubt that the full 2.75 gallons (10.9 quarts) was put into my system, and my suspicion is that I have been continually adding coolant to it because every time the truck gets up to temp and the thermostat opens, more air is being worked out of the system, and so the level in the overflow tank is going down more and more. For someone who drives their vehicle a lot, this bleeding process would go on for a few days or a week maybe. But because I only drive this truck a couple times a week (and fairly short distances), the bleeding process is still occuring even now, and will continue to occur until the full 2.75 gallon capacity of coolant is present in my system.

This is my current theory, just thought I'd update.
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2003 Mazda B2300
2.3 L
4 Cylinder
Automatic Transmission
Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #82  
Old 03-20-2017, 05:01 PM
Soledad Soledad is offline
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Posts: 172
Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

If you would like to perform the Ford burping procedure on your truck here's the procedure. The only thing I would add to it is to put the front end of the truck up on ramps so that it's at an incline but it doesn't necessarily have to be on the incline. Flat is fine. If after burping it correctly it's still losing coolant slowly then you've got seepage somewhere and I would highly recommend a proper cooling system pressure test.

Starting with the engine cold:
1. Fill the system through the degas bottle cap to the max fill level.
2. Start the engine and run for approximately ten seconds at 2,500 rpm to prime the heater circuit then turn the engine off.
3. Top off the coolant level to 0.6 inch above the max fill level.
4. Install the degas bottle cap.
5. Start the engine and hold at 2,500 rpm engine speed for approximately eight minutes until the thermostat opens.
6. Maintain 2,500 rpm engine speed for an additional three minutes.
7. Increase engine speed to 4,000 rpm and hold for five seconds.
8. Return engine speed to 2,500 rpm and hold for an additional three minutes.
9. Repeat the previous two steps.
10. Stop the engine and check for leaks.
11. Verify correct fluid level after engine cools for 20 minutes. Top off the degas bottle to "max" line.
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  #83  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:12 AM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

Thank you, Soledad! If the burping procedure requires revving the engine, then I don't want to do it because I've read that revving can put wear & tear on the engine, and my high-mileage engine doesn't need anything else stacked against it.

I think I will rent a pressure test kit from Advance Auto sometime very soon, and I might also need to get a dye kit and buy a small blacklight (because the reviews say the little blacklight pen that comes with the dye kit is basically worthless).
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2003 Mazda B2300
2.3 L
4 Cylinder
Automatic Transmission
Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #84  
Old 03-22-2017, 12:20 PM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

Hey everyone,

So last night I drained some oil and looked closely at it. It's clear, there's no milkiness or signs or water/coolant. Thank goodness.

Today I rented a cooling system pressure test kit from Advance. I put my overflow tank under 16 PSI and it seemed to maintain pressure good, I saw no obvious leaks. But after about 10 minutes, I looked closely at the pressure gauge and saw that it was very slowly going down slightly in pressure toward 15 PSI, so it was not maintaining pressure. I climbed under the truck with my flashlight, and after a while, I found the leak. It's back near the firewall kind of: if you drew a straight line connecting the back of the front wheels, it's located along that line, but way down in there. The leak is right at the meeting of a black hose that's clamped in place. The black hose says "HEATER" on it. (Please note that I had a major coolant leak 2+ mos ago and the mechanic replaced my heater control valve. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if this is the same area as that was...so not sure if I should ask him fix this coolant leak for free, or what).

I shined the flashlight way up there and snapped some pics with my phone. Can anyone tell me what this hose/connection is called and what I should do about the leak? It seems super inaccessable...Here are pics:



And on the left side of this image:
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2003 Mazda B2300
2.3 L
4 Cylinder
Automatic Transmission
Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #85  
Old 03-22-2017, 12:35 PM
Soledad Soledad is offline
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Posts: 172
Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

Nice find! Unfortunately I can't get out to my truck now to look at that connection but I "think" the far right side of that hose connects to what I call the Octopus hose (I believe it's actually called the Coolant Tank Recovery hose) that runs behind the engine to the other side.

The leaky side there I "think" connects to the heater hoses.

It looks like it's a simple screw clamp. You should be able to just snug that up a little more IF you can even get a screwdriver in there.
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2003 Ranger XL | 2.3L | 2wd | 5spd manual | standard cab | short bed | 112" wheel base | 3.73 rear (open diff) | no power windows or locks but at least it's got A/C!

Last edited by Soledad; 03-22-2017 at 12:38 PM.
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  #86  
Old 03-22-2017, 03:53 PM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

Thanks!
Yes, you're right - I need to get a long screwdriver in there and tighten the clamp. If I can manage to get some good access - either from below or from above (more likely) I think I'll loosen the clamp and try to slide it a little bit further up the nipple before re-tightening, just for a more secure connection.

Thanks again, Soledad, I'm glad I took your advice and got the coolant system pressure tester. So nice to know it's not a head gasket leak. ;-)
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2003 Mazda B2300
2.3 L
4 Cylinder
Automatic Transmission
Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20

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  #87  
Old 03-27-2017, 02:42 PM
Harbor_Handed Harbor_Handed is offline
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Default Re: Do I really need a new radiator?

I found that I can see the hose clamp from above with a flashlight so I bought an uber-long screwdriver today. It didn't work though. In fact, I couldn't get any of my screwdrivers to go into the flathead screw slot. The only thing that worked was sticking my hand way down in there and attaching my 8 mm socket, then sticking my hand back in and attaching my 1/4" drive ratchet. (I love my new socket set SO much! Stanley black chrome, baby!)

Anyway I gave the ratchet a few yanks to tighten the screw, then pressurized the system. It seemed to hold 16 psi of pressure. Drove 10 miles w/ AC on, then crawled under truck w/ flashlight. No dripping!! Woohoo!

Hopefully now I will not have to think about my cooling system any more at all for a long time!
__________________
2003 Mazda B2300
2.3 L
4 Cylinder
Automatic Transmission
Approx 145,000 miles on Odometer
Engine Oil: Mobil 1 5W-20


Last edited by Harbor_Handed; Yesterday at 06:32 AM.
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