InjectorS not firing.

[RangerUSA]

Hey there. Was able to track down the no spark by replacing icm and cps. Engine will crank and start with ether but then dies immediately. Fuel is at rails. Fuel pump was just replaced as it was completely shot. Just drained old almost black gas and put some fresh in. I disconnected the exhaust side coil and cranked the engine with the pedal down, checked the plugs on exhaust side and they were dry. Guessing injectors aren't firing for some reason. There is no MAF or airbox on the vehicle but have read that maf can't force a no start. Could the fact that it just has an open intake give the engine too much air causing it to stall? What other sensors could prevent injector spray? Tried a new TPS but no dice. Car has been sitting for a few years probably. could the injectors rust themselves shut? (muck fichigan) All contributions are appreciated

1991 2.3l

[tomw0]

Cranking with WOT will disable the injectors from what I've read. It is the condition where you have somehow flooded the engine, and you need to clear it, so you go WOT, and crank. The computer cuts the injectors to allow excess fuel to get moved on and does not add more fuel.
If you disconnect the exhaust side coil, it will never start. The exhaust side functions 100% of the time, the intake on an as-needed basis as determined by the computer.
There is also a small filter in the inlet to most injectors. It looks like a very small tube sock, made of metal screen(looks stainless steel, FWIW), which can get plugged with gunk(tech term) if the filter has allowed it through, or gas has turned to XyxAAfgyA after sitting in the fuel rail for years. Previous reference was to unknown substance after years sitting, but for sure no longer gasoline...
tom

[rangeredge2014]

i would get a noid light and check for injector pulse there sould be 12v constast at the red wire and switched ground from the pcm at the other wires on each injector if your getting power and switched ground id say you have bad fuel injectors

[RangerUSA]

Originally Posted by rangeredge2014

i would get a noid light and check for injector pulse there sould be 12v constast at the red wire and switched ground from the pcm at the other wires on each injector if your getting power and switched ground id say you have bad fuel injectors

I had 12v at injectors. Ordered new injectors off eBay over the weekend. I'll test the grounding wire asap

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Originally Posted by tomw0

Cranking with WOT will disable the injectors from what I've read. It is the condition where you have somehow flooded the engine, and you need to clear it, so you go WOT, and crank. The computer cuts the injectors to allow excess fuel to get moved on and does not add more fuel.
If you disconnect the exhaust side coil, it will never start. The exhaust side functions 100% of the time, the intake on an as-needed basis as determined by the computer.
There is also a small filter in the inlet to most injectors. It looks like a very small tube sock, made of metal screen(looks stainless steel, FWIW), which can get plugged with gunk(tech term) if the filter has allowed it through, or gas has turned to XyxAAfgyA after sitting in the fuel rail for years. Previous reference was to unknown substance after years sitting, but for sure no longer gasoline...
tom

OK I'll try to clear it then start. Will be replacing injectors but the gas has been cycled through to mostly clean.

[tomw0]

The injectors open to spray fuel when the ground appears on one of the conductors. The computer provides the ground when it wants to squirt fuel. If there is no pulses to ground, then the computer is not commanding the injectors to fire. The 12V you see is 1/2 of the circuit, as the electricity must flow to do anything, so you need to see the ground or feel the injectors as you crank(helper?) as they should have slight 'bumps' as the valve opens and closes. You can pull the whole fuel rail, injectors attached, and see if they are working. Again, they might be functional, but need the screen cleaned.
tom

[Longhair61]

I came to this topic bc I have not been able to get my 3.0 started for awhile now , pump works pressure at rail , will start if i spray fuel in throttle body and today i checked the 3 easy to get to injector plugs with noid and it wont light up , so i dont have voltage going to injectors .. A friend said puter no good ? . But if puter no good why did my code reader work today ? And it show a " No Codes. So im stuck .. Any advice TIA

[tomw0]

longhair, you're better off starting a new thread .. 2.3 4-cylinder vs 3.0 6-cylinder - not the same engine.
But. The computer has individual transistors, one per injector for SEFI systems, that provide a ground to each injector to make it open. Older, non-SEFI systems 'gang' the injectors, and fire them in pairs. If the transistors are cooked, or shorted, the injectors won't work properly. The rest of the computer can be fine, even with bad 'driver' transistors. Before condemning the computer, it would make sense to test that it is functional. Ford computer failures are more rare than some other brands.
Did anything happen to the vehicle? Connect jumper cables backwards? Dead battery? Bad alternator? Take for a swim in a flooded crossing?
It would be unusual for ALL the transistors to get cooked at one time without some sort of catastrophe that affected them all.
tom

[Longhair61]

Thanks TomwO, ok so i had put the Noid in plug and turn key over and there wasnt any light on Noid so as in post im like its all dead , So today i went out and used test light and turn key to On went and probed the pos side and she and all 3 lite up , So there is power to injectors and all 3 injectors tested out at 14.5 ohms , so now im like ok the pos side is from battery and from what ive read the Neg terminal ( lite flashing is done by puter) so im woundering why noid didnt flash as I cranked engine ? Also i had the injectors all out and installed kit but didnt know at time how to change filters so i reinstalled everything and later learned how to change them , I cant see how all6 are plugged up causing a No start
So im thinking i should really take itall apart and put New ones in and theres 45,6 lbs at rail i here fuel pump , still stuck , and icouldnt find on mobile app were to start New Thread and didnt read this Heading that well and rushed into posting here

[Longhair61]

And nothing has hapened to truck , just its nota daily driver anymore since i got it , so after i tore it all apart someone said hey bad fuel ;( huh so i drain tank amap and put new gas and put everything back together hoping she would be kind and Start .... Not , spray gas in TB and it started n stop, so back to square one , this Spring i had went out tomove truck and no start , so i thought frozen lines ? And waited for it to warm up outside few hours and went over and she fired right up , then i moved it and later it sat a month and then i needed to move it again and same thing happen No start then few hours later itstarted until just this last time , it wont start period so i took box off to get to fuel pump to later see pump still works aft i buy gauge to test at rail , not sure what to do , I hate working on Veh always did , thou no funds to send it out , so i need to fix it myself

[rangeredge2014]

The engine has to be turning for the noid light to work

[tomw0]

edge, read his first sentence in #8... "ok so i had put the Noid in plug and turn key over and there wasnt any light on Noid"

I may be mistaken, but figured 'turn key over' meant crank the engine over as if trying to start it.

From the description of the cold weather nostart/start/nostart sequence it makes me wonder if you have an electric problem. Most times, if the computer is fried, it is fried, and will not work intermittently. Since you have basically done nothing with the truck since winter, it should not have changed due to external events. Things like oxidation,(rust), loose connections that worm by temperature change, and slowly extract from connection, animals chewing on wires, and oxidation on relays due to non-use are common things.
You might just try re-seating a lot of connections. If you have a 'PDB - power distribution box', you can remove and replace the individual relays. If you don't you can remove and tighten all the connections on the battery side of the starter relay. All the fusible links are attached where the large red cable attaches, and that is "THE" source of power for the rest of the vehicle.
One caution is if you ever jumped the vehicle and got the cables wrong, you may have fried the computer, but I think that means FRIED!! as in 'nothing.'
tom

[Longhair61]

Finally located why no start , TPS shot
My neighbor came over with his $4k puter and it said 4.3v at TPS = PCM thinks its flooded and wont pulse injector , we swapped tps and trk runs like new , unreal had i just called the guy in begining like back in march , so idiot me replaced fuel pump cam& crank sensors , pcm relay, fuel pump relay tore up wiring harnesses , cleaned all grounds went over fuses 3-4x So all i can say now is i learned abunch about thee electrical systems on these computerized veh

[02RangerFX4]

Originally Posted by Longhair61

Finally located why no start , TPS shot My neighbor came over with his $4k puter and it said 4.3v at TPS = PCM thinks its flooded and wont pulse injector , we swapped tps and trk runs like new , unreal had i just called the guy in begining like back in march , so idiot me replaced fuel pump cam& crank sensors , pcm relay, fuel pump relay tore up wiring harnesses , cleaned all grounds went over fuses 3-4x So all i can say now is i learned abunch about thee electrical systems on these computerized veh

Really? Interesting. Only experiences I've had with bad TPS's caused idling and acceleration problems. Good to note.