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  #61  
Old 07-01-2017, 07:09 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

If you have an automatic transmission, the cooler lines connect the transmission to the side tank of the radiator. If they leak, you can get an rust-proofed engine bay. There may be a transmission cooler in front of the radiator, or there may also be a power steering fluid cooler, both of which could be dribbling liquid into the airflow going into the engine compartment.
If it was the fan, it would leak for a short while as there is not a lot of fluid inside. I'd guess there's more leaked than from the thermostatic fan.
Given the 'features' enabled by the tech, I'd be inspecting everything they did. Don't want to remove all confidence, but they may have left of a few little things.
Take a look at the vacuum diagram on the radiator support or underhood for a routing and connection diagram for all vacuum lines. Check their work, more or less.
Low power could be plugged air filter, flow fuel flow, ignition timing, cam timing, excessive friction of a new engine, dragging brakes, and a throttle cable that does not open the throttle fully, for just a few ideas.
tom
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  #62  
Old 07-01-2017, 08:54 PM
Tyler46 Tyler46 is offline
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The 2.3 Duratecs don't have power steering coolers, and they don't come with an auxiliary air cooler in front of the radiator, just the water cooler in the radiator tank. The fan clutch doesn't connect inside the motor and there is no oil inside it. The oil is leaking from somewhere else and the fan is spraying it everywhere.
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  #63  
Old 07-02-2017, 07:41 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Quote:The fan clutch doesn't connect inside the motor and there is no oil inside it.

I beg to differ. The fan clutch is filled with silicone oil, which is the driving fluid. As the clutch body heats, a bi-metal spring on the front(spiral) twists, turning a valve that closes/opens based on temperature. The valve controls the silicone oil being here or there, which affects how 'stiff' the connection between the fan clutch and the input shaft(turned by the pulley) becomes. Cool, and the fluid allows the fan to spin rather easily on the input shaft, heated, and the fluid causes the fan to spin closer to the input shaft rpm. At least that's my understanding.
There's not a lot of fluid, as I noted, so it is unlikely to be the cause of the rustproofing going in.
Were I trying to find the leak, the first thing I'd do is take it back to the 'techs' that installed the engine/short block/what ever, and have them check their work. This is not likely a coincidence, but something that was damaged or not installed properly.
If it is power steering fluid, don't run the pump dry as it will learn to whine all the time, and will never shut up.
tom
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  #64  
Old 07-02-2017, 12:56 PM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

The mass air flow rate should be where???? Mine is reading when driving live data -g/s....whatever that means. I don't think it should be there in the negative

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  #65  
Old 07-08-2017, 09:45 AM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

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Originally Posted by EaOutlaw1969 View Post
Sorry it took so long to reply, when I tried to log on early yesterday the site was down for maintenance.

The Fan clutch is the part you need to order if you haven't already.

The grey vacuum line connects to the heater control valve ( the part next to the engine oil dipstick )

I would look for other vacuum leaks or disconnected lines.

What happened to the blower motor ?

It seems to be missing from in the picture you took.

You should take many clear pictures of your engine, so we can look them over to see if anything obvious jumps out at us.

Post a video as well if you can.
Great! Took care of that vacuum line. So far not noticing any other vac lines disconnected.

I took out the blower motor because it was making a squeak sound. After taking it out I turned it on and it's no longer squeaking. need to check into it a bit more.

Ill get the pictures taken today, sorry so late. Thanks a bunch for all your help

----------

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Originally Posted by tomw0 View Post
Quote:The fan clutch doesn't connect inside the motor and there is no oil inside it.

I beg to differ. The fan clutch is filled with silicone oil, which is the driving fluid. As the clutch body heats, a bi-metal spring on the front(spiral) twists, turning a valve that closes/opens based on temperature. The valve controls the silicone oil being here or there, which affects how 'stiff' the connection between the fan clutch and the input shaft(turned by the pulley) becomes. Cool, and the fluid allows the fan to spin rather easily on the input shaft, heated, and the fluid causes the fan to spin closer to the input shaft rpm. At least that's my understanding.
There's not a lot of fluid, as I noted, so it is unlikely to be the cause of the rustproofing going in.
Were I trying to find the leak, the first thing I'd do is take it back to the 'techs' that installed the engine/short block/what ever, and have them check their work. This is not likely a coincidence, but something that was damaged or not installed properly.
If it is power steering fluid, don't run the pump dry as it will learn to whine all the time, and will never shut up.
tom
Great info, haven't replaced it yet just saving up a bit more cash.

Last thing to go is just the shaking every now and then and wanting to die at idle sometimes. I do have a smart obd2 reader that I can have connected while I road test. What should I be looking for? And where should that particular reading be at?
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  #66  
Old 07-09-2017, 01:29 PM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Bump

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  #67  
Old 07-10-2017, 05:50 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Too many posts... A guess. Look at the 'controlled idle' requested or IAC/idle percent. There are numbers about the load on the engine, where the throttle plate is, and what the commanded idle speed is and the actual idle speed. If you wanna fish around, look at the long/short term fuel trims and the O2 switching - B1S1, not the S2 value(s).
Last but not least, fuel pressure. That's enough variety for a good sub or grinder...
tom
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  #68  
Old 08-16-2017, 07:19 AM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Hey Hey,

OK, so I replaced the battery with a new one so stalling is at a bare minimum. I noticed the truck lacks the power it once had with the old engine. This ones brand new lol! When in fourth gear its having trouble getting speed and when its eventually there and I switch to fifth; fifth gear isn't maintaining the speed. The speed is dropping so I have to go back in fourth.

Check engine light hasn't came on. ANy suggestions with this one?
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  #69  
Old 08-20-2017, 04:42 PM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Anyone
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  #70  
Old 08-20-2017, 05:46 PM
stateranger stateranger is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

I'd keep checking for codes especially pending codes and keep looking things over. Try cleaning the mass air flow sensor with maf cleaner.
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Last edited by stateranger; 08-20-2017 at 05:54 PM.
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  #71  
Old 08-20-2017, 06:36 PM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

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Originally Posted by stateranger View Post
I'd keep checking for codes especially pending codes and keep looking things over. Try cleaning the mass air flow sensor with maf cleaner.
That's the thing no codes. Could an obd2 pick up codes even if check engine light isn't on? And yes purchased a new maf and still the problem persists
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  #72  
Old 08-21-2017, 09:43 PM
stateranger stateranger is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Some obd2 scanners can read pending codes which are caused intermittent problems or something that hasn't caused a big enough change to cause a check engine light.
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HELL TO THE NO!! Abort abort abort!! That's the first thing to go!!! Ewwwww! I'm not no vampire! I don't enjoy red tea
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  #73  
Old 08-22-2017, 02:41 AM
Hey Hey is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

Well hell, guess it's time to take it to a professional blahh
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  #74  
Old 08-23-2017, 02:54 PM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
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Default Re: Engine Gone....Need a replacement

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Originally Posted by Hey View Post
Well hell, guess it's time to take it to a professional blahh
I would check Long Term Fuel Trim with the OBD2 reader, and I would check fuel pressure. Low power is generally it being starved of fuel. Other possibilities are more complicated- camshaft timing (or maybe the cam position sensor), low compression (unlikely if its a new engine- possible if a wrecking yard motor), errant knock sensor causing excessive retardation of timing, massive vacuum leaks, and as someone else says the MAF sensor. Ignition usually Just Works (tm) or it doesnt, and generally misfires caused by ignition are going to throw codes.

Is the engine the same year as the ECM in your truck?
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