Hi Guys,

My 1988 Ranger has the 2 fuel pumps system with the single-use fuel reservoir
(with no filter) between the pumps. The truck had not been starting or running
well and I traced the problem to the fuel reservoir. The reservoir bowl
o-ring leaks and the reservoir inlet check-valve is bad. The valve has
"jumped" its seat and rattles around loose up inside the reservoir top along
with the spring. I can pull it back down but it's too worn to stay in place.
If I blow air into the inlet nipple the valve sometimes blocks the fuel
inlet passage. I think the same thing happens with incoming fuel. That is,
the valve piece blocks the passage and starves the reservoir bowl and frame pump
of fuel and air gets sucked in through the leaky gasket. The engine runs
really crappy that way.

My question is this: How essential is the reservoir check-valve? If I remove
the broken check-valve from the reservoir and operate it like that, will the
fuel system still work if everything else is right? Isn't there another
check-valve in the tank-pump that serves the same purpose as the reservoir
check-valve? Has anyone tried running without the reservoir check-valve? If
so, what were the results?

New reservoirs are hard to find and expensive. The only one I found
online is $131.00 plus $4.99 shipping. Aftermarket units don't seem to be
available. Possibly I can find one in a junk-yard but there are no
junk-yards nearby. I'd like to just pull the check-valve piece and spring out and replace the bowl o-ring and try it like that. I may do it. But I'd like to hear you
guys' opinions and experience on the matter. Some of you must know this
goofy 2 fuel pump system and how it works way better than me.

I believe the part number for the single-use reservoir unit is:
FOTZ-9K044-A.

Thanks,
Herb W.

here, maybe, @$54:
http://oemfordparts.jackyjones.com/oe-ford/fotz9k044a

possibly here:

http://www.oemfordpart.com/oe-ford/fotz9k044a

I have no clue if their stock levels are above zero, just that they list the parts...

Is this the canister mounted to the frame rail with 2 lines in and 2 lines out? I have an early EFI, and it has a canister that contains the fuel filter. I am fearful of removing it to change the filter as it is un-turnable using a oil filter wrench and I don't want to crunch it as I do not know if I can find another. Same thing?
From what I read, you can more or less gut the thing and it will still work. I wonder if you will have fuel drainback problems(fuel drains from injector rail over night), where you have to cycle the key OFF-ON-wait-OFF-ON-wait-OFF-START sort of to prime the system. I do have a filter on the shelf...
tom

I have one of those in my 85 and I can't open it either. Concerned about breaking it as well

__________________
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Update. Yes, this is the black plastic reservoir pot or canister inside the frame rail behind the front/high pressure fuel pump with 4 fuel line connections on it. My 1988 reservoir does not have a filter inside it. The filter is separate, ahead of the frame fuel pump. You guys must have the earlier style reservoir with a filter.

I tried those parts supply links and some others but nobody has this item FOTZ-9KO44-A in stock. They list the part with a price around $50-60 plus shipping, but so far nobody actually has it. (I didn't try the $131 guy!) The parts guys I spoke to called it "the back order from hell" because Ford has no release date on when the part will become available again. Nor is it available as an after market item because Ford has not released the "patent" on it--so I was told. One guy said the part has not been available for over a month and had no idea when/if it will be available again. He was very familiar with the problem.

I may just replace the leaky o-ring in mine and try running it without the broken check-valve. One guy said the truck "should" still run without the check-valve. It's worth a try. I only use this Ranger on my land as a wood hauler and work truck.

I took the reservoir out of my truck and held it in a vice before trying to take the bowl off. It came off pretty easy that way. But some guys break the plastic nipples off removing the fuel lines. Mine didn't break. I got lucky.

The reservoir on mine is 'protected' behind a THICK U-shaped piece of metal bolted to the inner frame rail. It sure looks like the can from an oil filter, made of sheet metal. I don't think it is plastic. I had bought a fuel filter years ago to replace mine as normal maintenance, but returned it when I realized I had a different system. The store had no recommendation at the time for a different filter. Finally got a MC element from Rock. On the shelf, as noted. I did remove the U-shaped protective chunk, and tried a 'strap' wrench but it just turned on the canister.
Anyone have a solution that will not crunch the canister?
tom

Tomw,

I imagine you've repeatedly sprayed the connecting joint with penetrating lube. I've heard that 50/50 auto trans fluid and acetone works better than PB Blaster. I can't tell the difference so I use both.

Sounds like the earlier reservoirs were metal. What year is your Ranger?

When I was testing my motor with a fuel pressure gauge on it, it would hold fuel pressure at the rail for days even with a bad check valve in the reservoir. That gives me hope that the motor will start and run okay without the faulty check valve. It's worth a try.

It may be that the check valves are a 'leftover' for the time when a filter cartridge was installed. When you go to change the filter, the check valve would stop the fuel lines from draining back and emptying out. What else would it be installed for given the regulator has a check valve and maybe the in-tank pump also?
I do not know where the 'canister' separates from the body, and did not try any penetrating oil. I have read of the 50/50 ATF:acetone mix and have recommended it to others.
I think the canister may be holding water droplets that seemed to show up after visiting one station that were helped by a yellow plastic bottle of Heet. Runs fine, then chugga-chugga-chugga as if running on two of four, with power way reduced. If I could remove the canister, I could drain all the water.
tom

I'm also thinking the check valve might not be essential. Worth a try without it.

On my plastic reservoir the joint is about 1/4 inch below the top of the canister part of the unit. Measured another way, the joint is 6/10th inch below the center of the bottom fuel line. On mine there is a small gap between the canister and the top even when together. Maybe you can find the joint with a knife blade.

You might try finding and cleaning the joint, spraying it wih penetrating fluid, and then gently hammering on the joint so the penetrant can seep in. Do that several times. It might finally come loose without breaking it.

The chugga chugga thing you describe is similar to how mine acts too, but maybe the cause is different.

I was chasing this a bit, looking for a reservoir that had a place for a filter...

The word is that you don't want to eliminate the canister thing. It holds, under light pressure, a blob of fuel that feeds the HP pump. If the HP pump should send all the fuel to the engine, say after you goose it good and hard, the lift, LP pump in the tank might not catch up to the demand for a bit. That would/could leave the HP pump with nothing to send, nothing to pump, and AND RUN DRY. The pump can cook. Literally, if run dry.
I do not know how long it takes... but the reservoir is good to keep.

Read more:

http://broncozone.com/topic/21964-fuel-system-help/

read read read.... worth a few minutes.

here ya go... 48 bucks:

http://www.tascaparts.com/index.php?..._str=fotz9k044

I wonder what is what is what. BUt think the above has no filter inside.

NOTE: F OH TZ, not F ZERO TZ ... somewho messed up back when, methinks, as FoMoCo parts were ALPHA-NUMBER alpha alpha
C5AZ prefix was for 1965 sourced parts... was no OH involved, but who knows...
tom


added: see the pics with a google for FOTZ9K044
tom

more: see http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/670260
from a google for e6tz-9365a images


Dang, this is so confusing.

And more fuel for the fire:

FTE sponsor: horizonpartsguy.com (formerly y2kfordparts.com & partsguyed.com) = HORIZON FORD TRUCK CENTER in Seattle (Tukwila) WA


from a MoPar dealer FOTZ 9k044a ... $47.62 cain't beet that...

However, there is an OH instead of a ZERO ... cannot people learn to differentiate numbers from letters... Pretty sure that's what you want. Has no filter inside... beats the beans from the ebay price ... and Amazon, too, I think.
tom

To confuse things more, go here and look at NumberDummy's picture post for small truck filter/filter reservoirs/etc:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/85...-canister.html

Image here:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/at...8&d=1459025183

I found mine!! ha ha... (simpsons voice)

E6TZ-9K044-A reservoir including installed filter

R/B or R-B stands for Ranger Bronco

NumberDummy also lists a parts source A/O 3/26/16 for $68.80, with ford-trucks discount of some sort...

MSRP: $125.31 / horizonpartsguy.com online price: $68.80.
FTE sponsor: horizonpartsguy.com (formerly y2kfordparts.com & partsguyed.com) = HORIZON FORD TRUCK CENTER in Seattle (Tukwila) WA


Dunno if it fits 88, but maybe if you ask NumberDummy nice...

As previous, this is rather confusing. To me, anyway.
tom

Thanks for the links. I read them all. I also called tascaparts.com and some other online dealers who listed my reservoir IN STOCK, but none actually had it. There's probably one out there somewhere, but right now I'm curious if the old one will work without the inlet check valve. Yesterday I took out the broken valve and put the bowl back on with a new o-ring. The o-ring is skinny--not like the original thick one. But that's the low pressure side only 6.5 psi Max. I'll put it in and try it any day now.

Did you actually find and buy one for yours?

Did you try here: horizonpartsguy.com

This was ~3 months ago, and they had the part then...

I have not tried. I will remove the thing and put in a vise, and try to loosen the can with a filter wrench. I have a filter on the shelf awaiting ...
If I mess it up, I may just investigate local boneyards before trying to buy a new one.
I understand from searching the units are the same in general, but the one marked 'do not remove' on the canister has no filter inside.
tom

Update: 1988 Ranger fixed. See Post #1 for original problem/question.

As mentioned, I proceeded to remove the check-valve from the plastic fuel reservoir (Part #FOTZ-9K044-A). I just broke off the worn valve head with a needle-nose and left the stem and spring in place. Put a new o-ring in the reservoir bowl and re-assembled. Cleaned fuel line nipples and lightly oiled them. Then installed reservoir unit back into truck and reconnected fuel lines with used hairpin clips (I have new ones). Leaving the reservoir unbolted until last makes it easier to attach lines and clips.

When it was back together I tried key "on" 4 times. Fuel psi only went up to 3-4 psi. (Remember: fuel reservoir was empty at this point). Jumpered fuel pumps off test connection: within 10 seconds fuel pressure up to 39 psi (previously this took 1-2 minutes).

Started engine--three short tries--then it caught. Instantly seemed to run PERFECT. Fuel pressure dropped to 32 psi and held steady. (Previously the fuel pressure went up and down until motor stalled). Now it idled nice without any throttle when cold. Did NOT stall or idle rough at all. Ran smoothly. No visible gas leak or smell around reservoir under truck.

Let truck sit for 2 days. Fuel pressure dropped to 20 psi and held there. Turned key to "on" one time and pressure went up to 39 psi. Started engine on second short crank. Fast idle 1500 rpm. Dropped to 1200 rpm. Blipped gas. Seems to operate okay. Put into gear. No stalling or hesitation or loss of power as previously. Seemed normal. Took down road a mile and then back. Idle 1050 rpm. Took down road and back a second time. Seems fine. Running perfectly it seems. Next day psi down to 20 psi. "On" right up to 39 psi. Starts good.

I think this truck is finally fixed after 2 years of replacing various parts-- both fuel pumps and some ignition parts. The problem was a worn-out check valve in the fuel reservoir that blocked entry of gas. (Possibly front fuel pump was also shot--rear one probably good.)

In conclusion, taking out the check-valve does NOT seem to affect anything important--although it must be there for some reason. When replacement fuel reservoirs become available again, I may or may not replace mine. For the time being I'll run the thing as is. It's mainly a wood hauling work truck around my place in the woods.

Learn from my experience and if your truck starts poorly (will only start with Starting Fluid and then runs like crap, no power, stalls, etc.), do a fuel pressure test RIGHT AWAY. I would have done it sooner, but Ford buried the Schrader valve so deep and hidden I couldn't find it. But when I did putting the tester on wasn't that bad. Also, look at the blue translucent fuel lines with the pumps running. I was able to see air bubbles in mine. That told me something in that area was amiss once I knew the fuel pressure wasn't right.

Coming from carburetor vehicles, I didn't know how critical how fuel pressure is with EFI. Now I get it. Also a book on fuel injection and engine management is useful to learn how the system works. I have the Probst book and it's good. That's what finally clued me in. Hopefully the truck really is fixed. I think so.

Update update.

I've been driving this '88 Ranger like crazy lately with the fuel reservoir check valve removed and it starts and runs flawlessly. I forgot how great this little truck is. Couldn't use it for like two or three years. It's my woods work truck and a big rolling toolbox. I see they're still charging some $80 bucks for a new fuel res. At that price they can keep it. Don't need it!

I saw the item with embedded filter for ~$60 shipping included and am/was tempted to purchase as it is NLA from dealers. Manufacturer discontinued. At least the E6TZ-9K044-A version, which is supposed to house a filter, is listed as NLA by several dealerships.
I am on the horns of a dilemma. Get a new one, or try the strap wrench (tried already) or two strap wrenches at the same time... or just leave it and hope for the best.
I just don't want to mess up what I have that is working, for the most part.