I have a '94 ranger, 4 cyl, 2.3 L., stx
It's a 5 speed manual.
I have replaced the flywheel once already, and I suspect it has been replaced at least once before that.
It has had trouble starting since I've bought it, leading me to believe that it's got something wrong mechanically.
Basically, when we got it, it ran fine for couple weeks, and then it stopped one day a little bit from the house. I didn't downshift in time (still learning feel of truck) from 3rd to 2nd, and it stalled while going up a gentle slope.
We pushed/towed it home and it sounded/smelled like a flooded engine, so we waited until it had time to settle and it still didn't start.
Replaced starter, nothing.
Replaced flywheel!
At one point also replaced battery!
Worked for a few months!
Then it got into a small wreck, wouldn't start, cleaned battery cables, started like usual for a few weeks.
Also changed out fuel pressure sensor, and cleaned carb. chamber.
Month or two ago, pulled into a gas station, didn't downshift fast enough, stalled and quit. Towed home, let sit for a few hours, cranked, then it wouldn't anymore.
Replaced starter (2nd time!).
Replaced ignition switch, and both positive/negative cables.
Started for all of a minute, made HORRIBLE grinding/clunking noise (flywheel being ground up?).
Took starter off to test, 5 teeth came out with it.

As far as I know, there are no shims, but I'm guessing there might need to be?

Also, for a '94 with 160-170k miles, would it be better to scrap and buy a newer model, or get it into a shop to have it professionally fixed?

Sorry for the big block of text, I'm just frustrated and wanna know if anyone knows what's going on.
Also, sorry if this is in the wrong section!

Thanks in advance!

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

Most trucks never need a flywheel replacement. Where did you get the replacement? Are you sure it is the correct flywheel? Is the starter the correct starter? You start loosing teeth when things do not mesh properly, such as the wrong parts.
I would bet a nickel you have fuel injection given that it is a 94 model year. If not, ignore this. The engine does not need you to step on the gas pedal to start, cold or hot. It should regulate the idle speed and start w/o pedal pressing. It should start quickly if things are working correctly, and there should be no smell of fuel.
If it is flooded, you may have a stuck injector that is dripping gas into the intake manifold. You can check for leaky injector or leaky check valve in the lines to the tank using a pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail(behind upper intake) where the injectors connect. If the pressure drops quickly after the pump stops, the fuel is going somewhere.
tom

Thanks for the idea to check fuel injector. I will do that when I get home.
Also, I will check the part numbers for the flywheel and starter.
Flywheel is from O'Reilly, starter from Advance Auto... Could that cause problems? I also wonder if there is a different starter for manual? If there is, that could be the problem...

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

Starter may not match flywheel.
Edit: your starter might of had shims to compensate.

How so is your engine now dead? Pistons or rods crash from lugging the engine?...perhaps next get a trans with a torque converter.
Interesting article also lots of words:
http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/12752/why-does-an-engine-stall-manual-transmission[/url]

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2008 FX4 Ranger. Black/ Black
Undid the full size Mod.
Kept the power rear window
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=82y5AyI5eEY

May be unrelated, I had a similar issue. problem was the Starter I had picked up as a replacement (reman) was for an Automatic NOT a manual trans on my 93. Apparently the guy at Autistic zone didnt think to ask or that it mattered (o.O) !

The Automatic starter has a larger snout and although it does fit with the manual Flywheel, it can either grind constantly or not at all as it may be engaged full time upon starting instances due to the slightly larger gear that mates to the flywheel, at least this rains true on my 4.0L OHV.

The manual is a smaller snout and fits the way it should with the clearances needed. I was both feeling stupid in my own right for not checking this prior to my swapping the part. I was also angry at the parts store for not properly qualifying my needs.

Two starters later plus the need to swap back the original at night, on a trail, in the dark with a ratchet & socket, wire crimpers, and a pencil flashlight while on both sides of me two separate packs of coyotes were tearing up rabbits or ducks..

Lets just say under pressure I can change a starter on my 4.0L in under 11 minutes in the dirt, dark, and minimal tools by myself !!

Just check the part numbers between the two and see if thats not your issue.

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The starter problem sounds like what I thought it was...

I reckon I'll go check part numbers, and also fuel pump and such.

Sadly (or not), it's gonna be retired for a bit as more of a project, as I'm getting a "new" car ('93 Jeep Cherokee) to be my daily driver. Still wanna try to keep my Ranger around, or fix it up and sell it so someone else can enjoy it.

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

I've replaced the flywheel again, as well as starter... But here's the new problem!

It won't start, starter tests fine, flywheel has no missing teeth. Going to get battery tested, but any idea of what else could be going wrong?

Starter also has a black deposit on the end that meshes with flywheel... Looks like black dust?


Thanks in advance

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

When you say "It won't start".. is that as in it attempts but still doesn't or as if the battery is dead, just clicks, etc?

The black dust is deposits from the old clutch.. [I hope]

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It attempts but still doesn't start. Starter is engaging, you can hear it spinning. Almost sounds like it's grinding.

Do you think the clutch needs replacing as well? I've only been replacing flywheel (and starter), not the whole clutch.

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

I have to ask why you went as far replacing the flywheel without the clutch too..

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First time we had to replace flywheel, the clutch looked good/fine. Second or third time, my dad and I honestly didn't think to replace it..

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

Ahhhh...

So if you take it out of gear and someone pushes in the clutch can you take a small prybar through the inspection grommet and turn the flywheel by hand?

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BTW..

Did we verify whether the Starter you last put in was for an Auto or a Manual ??

The only thing else I can think of and I dont know if its possible to do with our transmissions but it was possible to make the mistake on a 95 Ford Escort. Are you SURE you put the clutch back with the proper side facing the flywheel?

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Looked at flywheel this morning after taking starter off to be tested.

No, we didn't. Also I am not sure but I do know we used the proper alignment flywheel/clutch tool and such... How hard would it be to accidentally put it in backwards, anyway?

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Red 1994 XLT, 2.3L, 4Cyl, Manual, Single Cab

With the the slave cylinder being internal I am unsure but like I said, Once when I had my 95 Escort it was easy to confuse the direction of the clutch plate inside the pressure plate but one side is dedicated to being the pressure plate side and the opposite towards the flywheel. It still allowed me to assemble it as if it was correct, a simple but time consuming mistake.

When recently replacing my clutch in the Ranger I did notice that they took the time to stamp in the metal "Flywheel Side" so..

Can you turn the flywheel manually with a large screwdriver or a pry tool?

.

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You need a well charged battery or you may get grinding and such. The starter 'solenoid' is built-in or sits atop the starter, depending on vintage. The older ones had a 'bump' on the starter which you could remove to inspect the solenoid 'shoe' that was pulled into the windings and shoved the gear/Bendix drive out to mesh with the flywheel teeth, and then moved a 'bar' to close the BIG-BOY contacts sending full power to the windings & brushes.
The newer have external solenoid like old GM style, (plus lotsa Japan style).
If that solenoid dies, the motor may spin, but not engage the teeth of the flywheel. If they both sit long enough, they may get gummy as lubes oxidize, and need to be cleaned & freed up to work properly.
tom