99 ranger 2.5 with codes P1451,0135,0141,1409

westly7 · #1 01-07-2016, 01:30 PM

99 ford ranger 2.5 5speed 2wd my MPG is getting worse and also i can smell gas from inside cabin and on high rpm the truck doesnt accelerate like it used to,light for Check Engine is busted and i plug in my diagnose tool and came up with code
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit
P1409

I thought im having misfiring but turned out something else
Do you think i need to replace both o2 sensors? I just want to make sure before i spend money bc they are not cheap

Also 2month ago timing belt broke and i replaced it, im pretty sure i got it right but could these codes because im missing a tooth on timing belt?

Any input really appreciated thanks

Ranger Danger 1998 · #2 01-07-2016, 01:54 PM

Your poor fuel economy is probably coming from your o2 sensors. You will need to look at the the wires and look for shortages or opens that need to be replaced/repaired.

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p1409 is a EVR control circuit malfunction

westly7 · #3 01-07-2016, 04:40 PM

Does anybody know how to test o2 sensors with multimeter? I did search but came up nothing

sheltonfilms · #4 01-07-2016, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westly7

99 ford ranger 2.5 5speed 2wd my MPG is getting worse and also i can smell gas from inside cabin and on high rpm the truck doesnt accelerate like it used to,light for Check Engine is busted and i plug in my diagnose tool and came up with code
P1451 EVAP Control System Canister Vent Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
P0141 O2 sensor heater circuit
P1409

I thought im having misfiring but turned out something else
Do you think i need to replace both o2 sensors? I just want to make sure before i spend money bc they are not cheap

Also 2month ago timing belt broke and i replaced it, im pretty sure i got it right but could these codes because im missing a tooth on timing belt?

Any input really appreciated thanks

EVAP solenoid, EGR vacuum, and both o2 sensors heater circuits feed off fuse 13 in the engine fuse box. It will be 15 amps. I bet its blown.

tomw0 · #5 01-08-2016, 07:26 AM

And .... the reason it's blown is ....????

Look for smushed wires. Crimped or cut wires flailing about can touch ground and pop a fuse faster than you can say BroKen. Pfft.
If you smell fuel, look also for the fuel pressure regulator to be kaput. It is mounted to the fuel rail where the injectors are connected, and has a vacuum line attached. The manifold vacuum diddles with the diaphragm, changing the fuel pressure. If the diaphragm has a perforation, it will feed fuel to the engine, unknown to the rest of the world, and the computer. Instant whammo to gas mileage. About in half if the regulator is not working at all. They are not expensive unless you have a 4.0 in which case, drag out a Benjamin(at least that was the near cost in 03?). Made in Germany, and the boat was slow AND expensive.
The canister solenoid(valve) is in-line with the tube leading to the intake manifold. The canisters are located based on year. Older has them next to the drivers side of the radiator. Check the solenoid for shorts and cut wires. The O2 sensors are before and after the catalytic converter. Follow the wires up into their 'loom' checking for cuts and chafed spots. Other than that, look for places where squirrels can find stuff to chew on. They DO like the caps on the charcoal canisters. BTW, the canister can be a source of gasoline fumes as that is what they are supposed to store and release on command.
tom

westly7 · #6 01-08-2016, 08:19 AM

Yes fuse toasted,replace it and toasted after 2 second again

sheltonfilms · #7 01-08-2016, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westly7

Yes fuse toasted,replace it and toasted after 2 second again

Get your voltmeter out, set it for resistance, and place both leads in the fuse holder. Better to do this than to keep checking with fuses.

First visually inspect wires related to these components.

1st O2 sensor is in the cast iron exhaust manifold.

2nd O2 is past the cat near where the trans cross brace goes across the truck.

EGR solenoid is to the left of your coil packs and kinda under/to the right of your intake pipe.

EVAp solenoid is on the driver side fender near the ABS module and in front of the Master cylinder. The EGR and EVAP solenoid look very much alike.

Wires look ok start or the short doesn't go away when moving the wires, disconnecting these components and see if the short on the voltmeter goes away.

westly7 · #8 01-08-2016, 05:53 PM

Do u think with replace the o2 sensors both of them it will fix the problem? When i bought the car (4years ago) the CEL already on bc of o2 sensor (wasnt sure which one) then CEL went off i thought o2 sensor fixed by itself but turned out the CEL bulb busted

sheltonfilms · #9 01-08-2016, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westly7

Do u think with replace the o2 sensors both of them it will fix the problem? When i bought the car (4years ago) the CEL already on bc of o2 sensor (wasnt sure which one) then CEL went off i thought o2 sensor fixed by itself but turned out the CEL bulb busted

Don't replace anything unless you have to. You need to find the short first.

westly7 · #10 01-08-2016, 09:15 PM

I read about ECM and PCM sometimes got shorts,what PCM / ECM stand for?

sheltonfilms · #11 01-08-2016, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westly7

I read about ECM and PCM sometimes got shorts,what PCM / ECM stand for?

Engine control module / powertrain control module

This case would not be a short. The Pcm is on the ground side of all these components. The PCM cannot cause this fuse to blow.

westly7 · #12 01-09-2016, 10:30 PM

Shelton thanks for all the helps so far,do u know where ecm or pcm located?

sheltonfilms · #13 01-09-2016, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westly7

Shelton thanks for all the helps so far,do u know where ecm or pcm located?

Passenger side firewall. Big harness literally bolted to it.

jacksmobilemechanics · #14 07-26-2021, 11:24 PM

Bump. (I will also post a new thread)

I have a 2000 Ranger 2wd automatic 2.5L with 270k.

I am having the same issue. Codes for egr circut, O2 circuits, Eve circuits.

Vehicle idles in park and revs fine. Put into drive and it seems to have a hard misfire and barely revs.

I have changed the spark plugs, wires, egr control, fuel filter, air filter.

I found that the fuse 13 was blown for the egr, and both O2 heater circuits. Replaced fuse and tested for power at the egr control valve connector.

Found to have 0.5V instead of battery voltage like it should.

Removed the engine harness connector and tested for power to the harness and it was good. Checked continuity from the harness to the plug and it was open. Put dielectric grease and reconnected. Tested for power at the egr plug and now it is at 3.5V.

When I was replacing the spark plugs cylinder 2 exhaust side was really bad at the wire to plug connector and it appeared to have burnt threw the wiring harness. Cut open the harness above cylinder 2 and found some melted wires but they were not the egr wiring.

Sorry if this isn’t typed out correctly. Spent 6 hours scratching my head and I’m feeling defeated.