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  #46  
Old 09-15-2016, 07:44 PM
GoldieRanger GoldieRanger is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

For those that still care..
Changed out the 2.3 EGR (what a JOB btw..) and took 'er for a real, good drive
So far so good. She ran great! Not saying it's fixed the pinging problem 100% or that it's the fix for everybody but it really seems to have helped A LOT
No more ping as of yet!

Will see over time.
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  #47  
Old 09-16-2016, 04:47 AM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldieRanger View Post
For those that still care..
Changed out the 2.3 EGR (what a JOB btw..) and took 'er for a real, good drive
So far so good. She ran great! Not saying it's fixed the pinging problem 100% or that it's the fix for everybody but it really seems to have helped A LOT
No more ping as of yet!

Will see over time.
What did you see in there? Was the valve full of carbon deposits? How about the port in the head where the EGR connects? Did you angle the driveline down or pull the transmission to replace it?

Certain people would be interested to know these things

Im going to be doing this same thing soon enough. However, im pulling the trans to change the clutch slave/clutch/cooling hose/egr and I still need the clutch slave line removal tool, a flywheel, the egr valve, the cooling hose, a trans jack (unless I can create an impromptu saddle for my floor jack), etc.

Let us know if the symptoms return or what happens when you drop in 87 octane
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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s
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  #48  
Old 09-16-2016, 08:15 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

GSF.. check HF for a trans jack. They had one in the $50-60 range that was operated with a 1/2" drive ratchet. Some would use an impact wrench, but I don't think it will stand the force. Slow and easy... I used it for a A4LD in an 4.0 Aerostar, and it worked pretty well. I did have to 'lean' the transmission to even out the load on the scissors. If I had used the impact, I would not have known one side was binding, FWIW.
I have used floor jacks, but you need two things: 1)reach and 2)extra hands to hold the trans onto the support.
tom
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  #49  
Old 09-16-2016, 08:19 AM
Tyler46 Tyler46 is offline
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Default

This ^

I got a decent HF trans Jack for 100 bucks and have used it on like 10 transmission installs. Best 100 dollars I've ever spent. It was better and more expensive than the cheaper one but the added strength helps when it comes to HF, lol
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  #50  
Old 09-16-2016, 06:51 PM
GoldieRanger GoldieRanger is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Valve was carboned up as it naturally will be. I managed to angle my phone to get some shots of the head ports and they are black inside - again, they just will be, we're dealing with exhaust. There were no lumps or flakes or built up carbon deposits in the head ports, just a sooty black coating and short of removing the head and rebuilding/cleaning it there's not much one can do about it. It won'thurt it.
No I did not have to remove or lower any of the driveline. I did however have to remove the firewall insulation (why Ford thought in all their engineering to put it there I'll never understand - some of us actually want to hear the engine) and the intake manifold among other things to get my scrawny arms behind there and it took a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 10 mm shorty socket. ...and a lot of blind feel and patience.
...and that's about it...
That's it in a nut shell. It's tedious and time consuming but nothing worth having is easy.

I do not plan on running 87. For the extra few bucks per tank it's worth it to burn cleaner fuel.
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  #51  
Old 09-17-2016, 06:47 AM
tomw0 tomw0 is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Burning 89 or 93 will not add anything to the way the engine operates, and will not be 'cleaner'. The fuel actually has less tendency to ignite, can stand a bit more 'compression' generated temperature rise before auto-ignition. It is the 'self-igniting' fuels that knock. The lower octane ratings will self-ignite before the higher, so the higher are less likely to burn, more or less.
If you do not have pinging on 87, it is burning excess $C to use higher octane fuel. If you had a turbo then the higher might pay off. Older Mustangs had a switch and so did some imported vehicles, that indicated a lower octane was in the tank, and the timing and boost would be dialed back a bit, producing less hp/torque than the max it could.
Your choice.
tom
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  #52  
Old 09-17-2016, 07:03 AM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw0 View Post
Burning 89 or 93 will not add anything to the way the engine operates, and will not be 'cleaner'. The fuel actually has less tendency to ignite, can stand a bit more 'compression' generated temperature rise before auto-ignition. It is the 'self-igniting' fuels that knock. The lower octane ratings will self-ignite before the higher, so the higher are less likely to burn, more or less.
If you do not have pinging on 87, it is burning excess $C to use higher octane fuel. If you had a turbo then the higher might pay off. Older Mustangs had a switch and so did some imported vehicles, that indicated a lower octane was in the tank, and the timing and boost would be dialed back a bit, producing less hp/torque than the max it could.
Your choice.
tom
For the record GoldieRanger, I 100% concur with tom here- 87 isnt any more dirty or weak or bad- its just easier to make go boom and so less resistant to ping. You might consider trying a half-tank to see..

**EDIT** Missed these two responses:
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomw0 View Post
GSF.. check HF for a trans jack. They had one in the $50-60 range that was operated with a 1/2" drive ratchet. Some would use an impact wrench, but I don't think it will stand the force. Slow and easy... I used it for a A4LD in an 4.0 Aerostar, and it worked pretty well. I did have to 'lean' the transmission to even out the load on the scissors. If I had used the impact, I would not have known one side was binding, FWIW.
I have used floor jacks, but you need two things: 1)reach and 2)extra hands to hold the trans onto the support.
tom
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler46 View Post
This ^

I got a decent HF trans Jack for 100 bucks and have used it on like 10 transmission installs. Best 100 dollars I've ever spent. It was better and more expensive than the cheaper one but the added strength helps when it comes to HF, lol
Thanks guys- I had plans to make a saddle but Ill go check out Harbor Freight. Ive had mixed luck with tools there, but my floor jack is from there and has been great.
__________________
2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

Last edited by GSF1200S; 09-17-2016 at 08:04 AM.
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  #53  
Old 05-03-2018, 01:15 PM
GSF1200S GSF1200S is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Wow how time flies. This thread is about 2 years old and it recently came to mind.

All of the things prior did not eliminate the ping and for a solid year I ran premium Recently pushing in my clutch pedal I got a clicking noise- throwout bearing bad. I think the previous owner must of rode the clutch because I am always off the clutch between shifts and I leave it in neutral at lights.

Anyways, it was about time I changed the slave and master cylinder as the concentrically mounted slave likes to take a crap at 80-130k miles anyways. Decided that while I had the transmission out, I would change the EGR valve and its gasket, and as well that I would *finally* drop the $120 for a Motorcraft MAP sensor (which is primarily how the ECM knows to control the EGR valve). If you do this job, please also change the stupid cooling hose with the plastic hose tee- mine broke as I removed it!

The EGR I removed seemed fine- a very thin carbon film that was well within the realm of normal. The head appeared fine as well. Used a new metal gasket and Motorcraft EGR valve anyways.

After finishing the job and after running my tank to E, I put a half tank of 87 octane in the truck. No pinging. I've since run that tank out and put 87 in a number of times- no ping that I can hear. I think the MAP sensor was the cause- it had crap on it that could not be cleaned off- but either way this problem seems solved for now. We'll see as we get into the dead of summer and such whether it returns.
__________________
2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s
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  #54  
Old 07-01-2018, 10:22 PM
Tyler46 Tyler46 is offline
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Posts: 7,008
Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Nice! I dont check in often but this is good to read!
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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

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Originally Posted by guell View Post
People like him make me believe that birth control needs to be put in the public water supply
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  #55  
Old 10-09-2018, 03:33 PM
dissturbbed dissturbbed is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by GSF1200S View Post
Yesterday I decided to turn my radio off and have a listen. Im ashamed to say I havent done this in a few weeks, so hopefully I havent done any permanent damage. Truck is off the road now until I find out the cause.

Windows up radio off blower fan off, I can hear the engine ping whenever sudden changes in throttle position occur, or when climbing hills. Currently running 87 octane, but the duratec shouldnt require a higher octane. This only occurs when its warmed up- it runs perfect cold. No CEL light, no codes, and no pending codes. It is pretty subtle.

As a matter of maintenance and ensuring it lasts for another 100k miles, I have done the following within the last 10k miles:
- New coil pack (motorcraft)
- New plug wires (motorcraft)
- New spark plugs (autolite double platinum- verified gap all .044)
- New fuel pump (motorcraft)
- New fuel filter (motorcraft)
- Cleaned MAF and MAP sensors
- New upstream o2 sensor (motorcraft)
- New intake manifold (motorcraft) due to IMRC crap

Cooling system is in good shape- needle never goes above halfway. Cylinder head temperature sensor reports between 240-265 deg F, but remember this is NOT coolant temperature. I have an ultraguage, and heres some relevant info:
- LTFT (long term fuel trim) at idle is -4.7, and close to 0.0 nearly everywhere else. STFT fluctuates as it should.
- Timing advance seems fairly normal- around 8-12 degrees at idle. It might go way up at cruise, but then I read that is mostly for fuel economy.
- MAF reports seemingly accurate flowrates and ambient air temperatures.
- Reported fuel economy seems normal.

Some things I tried:
- Unplug the MAF sensor so the computer would revert to preprogrammed (and richer) fuel maps- still pings.
- Unplug the MAP sensor as im unsure what it does exactly. Engine started running goofy, but still pings.
- Unplug the TPS; I knew this wouldnt solve the ping and it didnt.
- Seafoam in the tank, and sucked some in via the brake booster line (carefully). Didnt really burn off that many carbon deposits. Still pings.
- Pulled the plugs- no sign of detonation on the plugs, and all but #4 are a perfect brown. #4 is a little lighter than perfect, but certainly not that lean. Carbon deposits are very minimal.
- Put solid pressure on the clutch peddle in case I was mistaking throwout bearing rattle for engine ping. Its a ping.
**EDIT**- Disconnected battery and turned headlight switch on for an hour (to reset fuel maps and force the PCM to relearn); still pings.

I dont know where to go from here and could really use some sage advice from you guys- im over my head. I would try to warm it up and have a friend tap the valve cover to see if the knock sensor has the computer back the timing off, but as Ive read ford doesnt seem to solve detonation this way? Im also wondering if the thermostat was replaced before I bought it and it innately is running hotter? I see a number of 208 degree thermostats mentioned on Rock Auto, so maybe one of them was put in? Where on the temp gauge does your Rangers run?

Any ideas would be really welcome
I chased this problem for over two years. I did everything you mentioned and more and still the same dreaded ping. However what saved my sanity was when my timing belt broke. After i replaced it the pinging stopped instantly. If you have a timing chain it might have jumped a few gears, if i were you i would check and make sure the marks line up. I never did and paid the price.
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  #56  
Old 10-09-2018, 04:04 PM
Dirtman Dirtman is offline
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Default Re: Duratec pinging like crazy...

I sorta skimmed through this thread and really didn't see any mention of the knock sensor. (Please correct me if I'm wrong) But if your knock sensor is functioning the engine should be impossible to ping/knock since it will just continue to retard the timing until it stops pinging. The 2.3 d-tec is 9.7:1 compression engine which is sorta high for using low octane fuel which is exactly why it has a knock sensor system. If your having ping issues first thing I would do is run a scanner with live data to see if the ignition timing is being retarded. If not the knock sensor has failed, or the noise isn't actually detonation. (As stated previously these engines are notoriously noisy and clanky especially the early ones with that garbage runner control system)

My d-tec runs happy as a clam on 86 octane but if I drive with my scanner hooked up I can see it pull a few degrees timing occasionally when I really load it because the knock sensor is doing it's job. The knock sensor can adjust instantly and you should never physically hear a knock. Usually now ill just fill up with 91 or 93 when I know ill be towing or hauling.

Last edited by Dirtman; 10-09-2018 at 04:07 PM.
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