Hey guys,


I know it must seem pretty obvious, it must have not been installed correctly, but I do not notice any coolant coming from the hoses.
I do see some coolant platter on the coolant temp sensor, or at least what I think is the Integrated Housing Thermostat

See link below.


http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=428&jpid=0


So I might need a new one, what do you think?

I do see a tiny puddle of coolant on a ridge that belongs to the radiator.


Could it be that the new hoses are providing more pressure and the radiator is giving out.
Photo provided. Look for the red HERE

IMAG0009.jpg

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2001 Mazda Stick shift B2300 SX 2.3 2.3L Duratec I4---More horsepower than the 2.5L hehehe------

2002 Ranger SuperCab V6 4.0

I am assuming the coolant hoses have not been changed, has 110K

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2001 Mazda Stick shift B2300 SX 2.3 2.3L Duratec I4---More horsepower than the 2.5L hehehe------

2002 Ranger SuperCab V6 4.0

Is it me or is there no damn clamp on the lower hose??

Perhaps that is why it's leaking?

New hoses will not create more pressure. Double check to make sure you have a uniform seal around the hose and that there is no rolled lips or edges or debris that is not making a complete seal around whatever the hose is around..

-Nigel

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2001 Ranger XLT 2.3L Auto: Bunch of misc mods.
Little lift: 4" Spindle Lift w/ 2" shackles and 2" oem blocks.OEM Ranger Sport Wheels: Tires=245x75x16

~NSG~

Also looks like there's some fluid spatter at the top of that image. Try wiping everything down really well to see where the leak is coming from. If it's dried then there's no telling where it came from.

Also just food for thought - I have all my original, yes... Factory radiator hoses and they look like they're brand new, no cracking or leaks.

155,000 miles.

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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

Yes there is a hose clamp but it's not factory original.

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Well I found that the coolant is leaking from two places, on the lower hose, the side that connects to the engine and from the back of rthis housing

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=427&jpid=1

There is a clamp on the radiator side but not on the engine side, so I gotta get that done. I called the friend that did it for me and he said we are gonna have to remove the power steering to really get it on tight.

I just hope no coolant is leaking within the engine block.

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2001 Mazda Stick shift B2300 SX 2.3 2.3L Duratec I4---More horsepower than the 2.5L hehehe------

2002 Ranger SuperCab V6 4.0

It's possible that the plastic side tanks on the radiator might have cracked. That's what happened on mine, and it resulted in having to install a brand new radiator (aluminum core was FINE, it was just the stupid plastic that went out).

That tube you just linked is solid metal, so it's very unlikely that it's the source of any trouble. Look specifically for the parts that have plastic in them. Those are the most likely failure points. Check the coolant tank for any sign of cracks near the threads below the cap. That's a not-common-but-also-not-unheard-of issue with this system. Hairline cracks form at the top of the bottle, and coolant starts bubbling out after long-enough drives.

Another thing to check is the bypass assembly. On the driver's side of the engine, there is a plastic tee that branches off to the EGR valve on the back. It's on the hose that plugs into the thermostat. That's the part that I just had to replace on mine. It sucks.

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT
2.3L I4 Duratec DOHC, 5R44E 5-speed auto, RWD, 7.5" Open w/ 4.10 Ratio, Gibson split-rear catback
Sonic Blue Pearl with dark gray trim

Well I just checked and the original housing is plastic, so I hope installing the new one helps a ton.

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2001 Mazda Stick shift B2300 SX 2.3 2.3L Duratec I4---More horsepower than the 2.5L hehehe------

2002 Ranger SuperCab V6 4.0