3 new starters don't work.

[astoda]

I have a 2002 2.3L 2WD ranger. This starter has been acting up for the last couple of months. I have a rubber mallet that I hit it with when it just clicks instead of starting. I've tried to replace the starter several times. First, a friend of a friend got me a starter and it didn't work. I assumed the starter was not right for the truck because I took it in to O'Reilly's and it tested good. Then, this guy got me another one and it also didn't work. Yesterday, I bought a rebuilt from O'Reilly's and it also doesn't work. Keep in mind that each time, I put the old starter back on and it works. The Hanes manual is very vague on the whole thing. What am I doing wrong?

[smokinAMD]

Clearly you have another issue. Need to inspect all your wiring going to the starter. Need to inspect your battery cables and terminals, etc.

[RagerTom]

Originally Posted by astoda

Keep in mind that each time, I put the old starter back on and it works.

hmmm.

[astoda]

If the wiring was bad, why would the old starter still work?

[GSF1200S]

If the old starter works and the new ones dont, then the new ones are bad. I guess id suggest buying a NEW one from rockauto. A lot of remanufactured stuff like alternators and starters are junk, and most stuff you get from "buddies" or parts houses are remanufactured.

Of the ones I see on rockauto, I would get the Remy. I have a remy alternator and it works great, and the brand has a pretty good reputation. I would avoid the TYC one for sure.

You could get a motorcraft, but be prepared to pay $$$. I would double triple check your cables and the +/- battery terminals for corrosion; a baking soda/water paste and toothbrush is/are great at cleaning of acidic corrosion (since baking soda is a base).

[astoda]

All three starters are bad? I must have some pretty crappy luck. I'll buy yet another one if I have to but I seriously think something else is going on here.

[tomw0]

Take the 'new' starter, and lay it on the floor of your work area. Get jumper cables, and connect the black from the '-' post of the battery to the bolt area of the starter, connect the '+' to the battery, and touch it to the large post on the starter.
BE READY FOR THE STARTER TO JUMP AND ROTATE, cuz it will. If you are not standing on it, it will move like it is alive.
If the starter does nothing, your starter is bum. If if works, then it should work in the truck. The black fat wire from the battery should connect to the engine block, the red from the battery to the relay and/or starter solenoid.
You should be able to jumper the relay on the fender if you have one, touching the small connector to the large + connector on the battery side. The relay should close, and power the starter.
tom

[astoda]

All the new starters are test good and I can hear the click, just nothing else.

[epicelite]

Get a new battery.

[tomw0]

Jumper past the starter relay using large cables, and see if the 'new' starter works. It could be a bad relay.
The old starter has much less friction. The brushes are WORN, and don't bear on the armature nearly as much, so it is easier to turn. The new starters are tight because of bearings, and the brushes bearing on the armature.
You are feeding the new starters less amps than they want, so they just click. When you test at home, did you use the same battery that you have in the truck? Either way, once the starter is put in the truck, it will need more amps to turn the flywheel than with no load.
tom

[RayInStl]

We had a similar problem with my brother's Jeep. The main power wire to the starter had gotten some cuts in it and corroded pretty bad. It was still able to randomly start the Jeep, but a lot of the time, it would turn like the battery was nearly dead. A mechanic friend said the corrosion was causing resistance and not letting the current flow. We could start it with jumper cables off the same battery.