Hello,

I am changing the slave cylinder on my 97 2.3L Ranger with 210,000 miles on it. I have read from many places to take care of the other maintenance tasks while the transmission is removed like the clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, rear main seal, transmission input seal, and inspect/resurface the flywheel.

The question I have is regarding the rear main seal. I am not sure if mine is leaking. I have read from other sources that the rear main seal is a bugger to get on correctly and the saying that "if it isn't broken, then don't fix it" applies.

The bottom of the engine is wet near the transmission (I have never noticed any drips on the driveway), which makes me believe there is a leak back there some where. There appears to be a slow leak coming from the valve cover as the back of the engine is all shiny/grimy below it. When I inspected the RMS, it looks dirty all around, but the bottom is clean, like it is washed with clean oil? Please see the picture.

I am asking to know if I should change it and what else I should change.

Thank you in advance.

Attached Images

20151018_133407.jpg (17.4 KB, 25 views)

Personally, I am of the opinion that if it works, leave it alone. You can cause more leakage by replacing the seal if it doesn't get installed to the correct depth, doesn't seal around the outer edge, or the spring gets flipped out of place while you are driving it into place.
Your crankshaft does not look leaky, and the little accumulation at the bottom of the seal area looks almost dry. If the picture is fooling me, and the area at the bottom is wet with oil, and the area is 'washed' by oil instead of accumulated with grime, then the seal may be leaking more than you will accept.
Do you ever get a drop forming on the bottom of the bell housing? On the front of the 'dust cover' that is bolted to the front edge of the bell housing? A drop here and there is acceptable, but not drooling.
The transmission front seal is generally a mechanical re-direct to a drain, but other designs have been made.
If you have good clutch, with it starting to move the truck relatively near the floor as you release the pedal, why change it? It is your labor.
If you decide to replace the clutch disk, get the flywheel resurfaced, and a new/reman pressure plate also. You can also just replace the clutch disk if the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are good. Look for 'heat checking', which I think is small rectangles of what look like cracks, and also for discoloration indicating hot spots.
Also take a look a the transmission top surface. Some have rubber plugs that disintegrate and allow the lube to leak out, which is not good for the gears and bearings. Metal plugs or the original can be installed if yours are damaged.
If the pilot bearing is sealed, leave it alone if the center moves freely and smoothly. If it is open, check the needles for rough spots, and if smooth, you can flush clean it, if necessary, and smush in some new grease, using a finger, and forcing it in between the needles in the holder. It only operates when you are in gear, pedal depressed, engine running, so it's not a real wear item unless you drive in stop & go traffic a lot and leave the transmission in gear while stopped.
tom