2002 Ford Ranger 2.3L with 5 speed manual. I just bought this truck from a 70-year old lady that was the original owner. I intend to use it for Home Depot runs only, so it's not my daily driver. The truck has 130K on it.

Anyway, in an effort to do some maintenance on the truck, I gave it a tune up a few weeks ago (plugs, wires, coil, PCV valve, air filter, and oil change). Yesterday, I finally got around to putting a new fuel filter on the truck, which took me about 10 minutes and everything went effortlessly. The truck started right up and I drove it about 15 miles to Home Depot, parked, went in and shopped, then jumped in the truck to head home. Before getting home, I stopped at my local grocery store, parked, went in, shopped, then came back out to leave, and the truck wouldn't start. It cranks, but doesn't seem like it's getting gas. In fact, when I turn the key on, I can't hear the fuel pump buzzing like I normally hear in any other car.

I checked the inertia switch, that was fine. I tried swapping the fuel pump relay with other relays, still no luck. Here's one other thing I noticed...I still had 2 keys on my keyring for the truck from when I bought it. The main key makes the THEFT light perform like it should (the light shuts off after 3 seconds when I engage the ignition). However, the other key causes the THEFT left to blink rapidly, so it seems like that key isn't programmed properly. Is it possible that since I had both keys on my keyring that I confused the PCM? Maybe the PCM thinks I'm trying to steal the truck? I tried pulling that key off my ring and putting it in the house, but the truck still won't start with the one good functional key. Right now, I have the battery disconnected with the hopes that I can maybe clear everything out of the PCM - I'm not even sure if that works.

So, what's next? Do you think it's the fuel pump? PATS issue? Anything else? I'm not getting any OBDII codes to come out of it.

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT. Standard Cab. Shortbox, flareside. 2.3L 4 cyl, 5-speed manual transmission.

Im having the same issue with my 2000 2.5. Ran fine, fuel pump quit. Replaced that and the relay and it ran fine until i shut it off at the gas station. Refused to start. Replaced the faulty battery ground, purged the fuel line, ran fine. Went to start it today, fuel pump isnt kicking on. And its my daily, so im screwed.

I have the same truck. Sounds to me like the fuel pump, its harness, or the inertia switch. Since you ruled out the latter, I would check the harness and prepare to replace the fuel pump.

At 130k, i would not be surprised if the fuel pump quit. The life of a fuel pump depends heavily on how often the fuel filter has been replaced. Id suggest changing it every 30k miles or so.

I dont think its PATS. As long as the theft light indicates as it should, it should be fine. Memory serves correctly the PATS module is around the key in the ignition- no outside source (including a bad key) should cause trouble.

**PROTIP** Get a Motorcraft pump or prepare to have trouble. Rockauto has them SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than the Ford dealer.

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

It sounds like the PATS system went into theft mode and the only thing to do is pay the stealership to reprogram the PATS. I had to have them do that 2 weeks ago because I lost the only key I had to my truck and they charged me $50 for a 1 minute job.
You might be able to have a good lock smith do it, but it'll still be expensive.

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2004 black Ranger XLT- Sold
2004 Vista blue 2WD(custom paint job)Ranger XLT 4-door ext. cab with the 3.slow and auto trans black and blue FX4 Level II bucket seats with shorty console
2004 DSG FX4 with a 5R55E auto trans and 4:10 gears-Sold
2010 Redfire Metallic 2WD Ranger XLT,4-door ext. cab, 4.0 SOHC with auto trans, SLA front sus. traction control, Sirius Satellite radio and 3:55 gears
2003 red Ranger Edge 4X4, 4-door ext. cab -4.0 SOHC with a 5R55E auto trans

I had the same exact problem with my 1997 Mazda B2300 2.3L and I am telling you I went through hell replacing every single fuel associated thing and then it ended up turning into replacing every no spark associated thing including coil packs...you name it I changed it and finally after my mechanic whom mind you has only ever owned Ford Rangers and only works on them types of vehicles so he knows them inside and out..finally we were about to call it quits and just scrap it out for parts he happen to come across the Ignition Control Module and the only one he happened to be able to find was brand new located in Hawaii and they wanted a ridiculous price for it (300.00) and an additional 100.00 shipping insurance to ship it to Michigan and just by pure luck cuz I wasn't paying that for one thing after all the money I dropped into it already and it was actually given to me by my aunt as a gift. Anyways he happened to buy his friends whole Ford Ranger for $10 one day and it just so happen to be the correct fit that I needed and ever since then I have drove the crap out of this truck and mind you it's really not in the best condition but trust me just try that before you start going through all these parts that I have already tried brand new. I hope this helps as I see alot of people seem to be having the same issues and it wasn't too long ago that I was one of you frustrated folks. Have a nice day!

The PATS will disable the starter motor, from what I know. The keys are responsive to an electrical 'field', and when close to the sensor on the steering column, will radiate a number or code the sensor can read, and either accept or deny.
If you separate the keys, one of which is likely 'foreign' to the PATS, and use the key that does not cause the PATS light to blink fast, it should start or at least crank.
The fuel pump should run when you turn the key to ON. Open the door, and defeat the buzzer with a foot, and turn the key to on. Listen closely for a ~5 second run.
If not, check the relay, wiring, and finally the ECM. I don't have access to late model diagrams nor 'logic' to know who does what to whom in the process, but it's spozta run to pressurize the fuel rail. Once the engine starts, the computer then provides 'run' power to the pump.
If your system has a 'fuel pump driver module' on the tank near the sender assembly, it can die, and the pump won't run at all. It provides a pulsed power to the pump to regulate pressure under direction of the computer. It can fail 'open' and you'll get no juice to the pump. If you have to gain access, try unbolting the bed and lifting it off rather than the tank. Few electricals, brake, tail, and license lights, and just the filler neck to disconnect.
tom

I would guess that it is your fuel pump. If the theft system were engaged, the key would turn, but the engine would not crank.