I am at the point of replacing the intake manifold on my 2003 2.3L to solve an engine roughness issue just off idle, under light load. The problem is documented in this thread: 2003, 2.3L Misfire Under Certain Conditions. Before proceeding, I decided to remove the manifold runner butterfly valves to see what, if any, effect this would have. The short answer is it did not have much of an effect at all which is what member riscorpian has reported in earlier threads. The engine roughness still occurs at specific engine speeds depending on load. The motor may be making less torque below 2000 rpm but I have no way to measure that.

Here is the process I used to remove the butterflies.

1. Remove the manifold from the head. Be sure all of the harness connections are detached from the manifold. Also, there is semi-visible clamp for the EGR tube at the rear, top of the manifold accessible from the driver's side of the engine. The clamp is secured by a bolt with an 8mm head.
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2. With the manifold on the bench, remove the vacuum actuator. It is secured by three Torx screws.
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3. Remove the white, plastic lever that connects the actuator to the square runner shaft. When this piece is removed, the end of the runner shaft is visible.
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4. Remove the runner shaft. I just pulled it completely out of the manifold with a pair of pliers.
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5. Gently remove the butterfly valve carriers from each port with a small screw driver or similar tool.

6. This is the tricky part. Separate the butterfly valves from each carrier, without breaking the carrier if possible. My carriers are pretty brittle and I broke three of the four. This is not critical as the two pieces of a broken carrier will fit back into the manifold fine. The only reason to put them back in the manifold is to properly locate the seals.

7. With the carries reinstalled in the manifold, install new manifold seals (gasket).

8. Reinstall the white, plastic lever and the vacuum actuator.

9. Install the manifold.

Here's a couple of pictures of the butterfly valves removed from the intake.
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I think part of the problem with the intake manifold runner as implemented on the early Duratec Rangers is the butterfly carriers wear where the butterfly valve pivots. This causes the valves to be loose and rattle around in the manifold. It sounds like a loud tick. I am not sure how this affects the way the engine runs but at the least, suspect that loose, leaky butterfly valves defeat the purpose of having them in the first place. Here are some pictures of my worn carriers.

Edit: My suspicion is not original. riscorpian reported that the loud tick is indicative of worn butterfly valves and drew similar conclusions in earlier posts.

Attached Images

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wil 2.3 head fit 2.5 motor?

Please start your own thread.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I have the intake manifold off of my 2003 B2300 right now and I am tring to decide what I need to do. In 2012 I replaced the intake manifold because the plug near #1 on the intake manifold had popped out and was causing a lean condition. I the intake manifold recently to replace the valve cover gasket. I removed the rod and flapper assemblies and everything seems to be in good shape so I was just planning to put it all back in. However from videos I have seen, there are typically bushings between #4 and #3 and also between #1 and #2. However mine only had one between #1 and #2.




So I was hoping you could let me know:

1. did yours have the bushings in 2 places or just the one place like mine?

2. It sounds like you just removed the flappers and the rod, but put everything else back in. So the end where the actuator is located is sealed like it always is, and you left the holes (where the rod formerly passed) unsealed between each runner. Is that right? Did you notice any power or fuel mileage issues possibly due to leaving the holes between the runners? I have heard of some people using epoxy to seal those holes, but I'd rather not do that.

Thanks.

I don't specifically recall whether the bushings were present in both locations. Did you replace your manifold with an OEM part? I bought a Dorman and wonder if the the less expensive aftermarket manifolds only had bushings between one and two.

I didn't notice any difference in engine power or mileage between the original manifold with loose, leaky butterflies and the original manifold with the butterflies removed. I only drove the truck for a week with the butterfly valves removed before installing a new manifold. Leaving the openings for the rod between runners is probably not ideal. Maybe the reason I didn't notice any difference is because I had leaks between runners with the rod and butterflies installed (with the original manifold).

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Rich Hanning

2003 XLT (2.3L Duratec)

I purchased a new manifold in 2012 directly from the local Ford dealer. I'm am surprised that mine only had the one bushing. I'm not really sure what to do. I think it is perfectly fine to remove the flaps, but just not sure what to do about the holes. I'm not sure they make the Dorman manifold anymore. Now I am wondering if I should just get a new manifold.

Thanks.

I thought of a way to plug the holes between the runners. The holes appear to be about 7/16 in diameter. So I was thinking of getting a piece of 7/16 aluminum rod and fitting it in there. Hopefully it is slightly larger and since aluminum is easy to work with, I think it would be possible to take a few thousandths off to make it a snug fit. Then the flapper holders that are re-inserted would prevent any chance of the aluminum rods coming out.

Just a followup to the IMRC delete. I used 7/16 aluminum rod for the holes. It was nearly a perfect fit but on the longer middle one I had to make it about 0.010" smaller (I put it in my drill press and held a file against the side as it turned) to get it to fit. On the other two I had to hammer on the opposing sides to make a section of the rod slightly oval to make it fit. I could have used 1/2" rod and turned that down to 0.445", but I didn't have 1/2" rod and it would have taken more effort to take off over 0.055". I have put the intake back and so far I haven't notice any difference.

Want to say thanks for this old thread and offer up my 2 bits. First for google purposes only: 2001 2002 2003 2004 Ford Ranger 2.3l IMRC delete.
Current news on the manifold: My Ford parts guy said they were on back order and not discontinued. If you still want a manifold, good luck.
On the delete: I removed the rod, bushings and flaps. I filled all the holes with JB Weld using their new syringe which you can buy mixing cones for. I mounted the manifold straight up/down in my vice, cleaned the holes with brake cleaner and a bore brush. (Figured roughing up the plastic wouldn’t hurt either.) I used gorilla tape to seal the bottom of the holes to hold the JB in until it kicked. I broke one retainer and couldn’t bring myself to put it in. I used one from a Focus. It had a slightly different profile, but fit the manifold grooves perfectly. You CAN buy IMRC repair parts in the UK from EBay, but I didn’t have the time to experiment to verify the interchange. I strongly suspect they fit though given the Focus part fit.
I did this delete while also changing the coolant bypass hose (yeah that one), the motor mounts, and the delete of the POS electric thermostat. Prior to my Ranger getting sick, it got a consistent 27.5 mpg. It had fallen to 24 before I had enough. I filled up after the repair (only half tank) and got 25mpg. My second full tank 26.5mpg. Working my third tank, the low fuel light didn’t come on until 387 miles were on the trip odometer. Got 27 flat. So yeah, go ahead and delete it if you are good with only losing .5mpg.

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The longer your parts are apart, the farther apart your parts get. Restoration Law #1.

2002 Ranger 2.3l 5sp
IMRC Delete
Electric Thermostat Delete
DJM 2-3 Lowering Kit