ok ranger runners, I know this is a very popular topic, but I didnt seem the get the right answers when I first started having this issue, so I thought I would add my two cents. I started having a little issue with idle a few days ago which became worse today. I was on the highway when I could no longer get the engine to come down from idle. I tried several things but ended up on the side of the road with the motor cut off. Luckily, I have some sort of idle control that will not let the motor run up past 3000 rpm when the tranny is not engaged, so I dont blow the motor when stuff like this breaks. Anyway, I limped home and scoured this forum. Most of what I found led me to believe that the IAC is a good place to start. $50 bux later I had a new one in my hand. as soon as I got mine open I knew what was wrong. there was a small leaf jammed in the valve and it could not close. I am not sure if this is whats happening to everyone, but it sure seems easy enough to mess this little valve up. I know most guys say that they change the IAC and the problem is fixed but then returns, which got me thinking. I am sure that i bumped the leaf into the system last weekend, therefore, I will not be suprised if this comes back. In which case, I will just clean out the valve again and keep going. I am worried that some guys get frustrated that this issue reappears and start looking for new solutions when the real answer might be just just open it again and clean it out. Maybe not, but its worth a try. I posted a video on youtube which I will link ASAP. got some picks too i will add. If this helps even one person to go back and look at the IAC twice, I will be happy. Im sure this is not the end of the issue for me.



2006 Ford Ranger 2.3l XL
62,000 Miles
Base model nothing Gucci.

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If you cant MOD it, why buy it? Seriously, I want to know.

I've had this issue for a while now and have let it go on for too long. Seeing any project on video just makes it that much easier when you do it yourself. I will check it out for sure.

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| 2005 XLT 4x4 | 2 Door Xcab | 4.0 SOHC | 4.10 Gear Ratio | 28 Spline Open Diff | 5 Speed Manual | A Few Mods

The only thing that concerns me is... how did the leaf get into the IAC valve?? Any air coming into the engine should need to pass through the air filter. Id be worried if youre getting a leaf in there you might be thrashing your valves/rings with all sorts of crap.

Do you have a massive vacuum leak somewhere? Are you sure??

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

Mines been the maf

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1996 Ford Ranger Standard 5 speed 2.3 4 cylinder Red
Mustang Rims
Bucket Seat Mod ,Air box Mod Dual ,Hand made Center
,Console Hand made Tool Carrier ,Lowered a inch in rear end ,Color matched grille

Filter was changed recently. Only thing I can think is that it fell on top the filter when I was closing the box. Tight fit in mine.

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Ok. Follow up solution. Have a video I will post soon. But I found some good as hell info.
After the leaf was discovered I installed a new part from O'Malleys. Total fix!! No more uncontrolled revving. And no more burnt clutch ... Or was it. Days later I started to notice the truck stayed revving during shifts. And stayed revving high upon initial startup. Something I have hear many people on this forum complain about. So I started troubleshooting, I looked at all the valves again, I checked for vacuum leaks, I revved it during shifts, I did just about everything I could think of to make it either go away or exacerbate the issue. After 3 weeks I decided because I still have the original I ac, that I was just going to put the old one back in. So I took it out to the bench and cleaned it up and fill the valve for binding or any issues, and then pulled the replacement off the truck and put the OEM part back on. Gentleman I am Telling You the problem is gone. I am convinced that the aftermarket part had a different type of valve spring that did not close as quickly as the om part. The original has only been on for a day now but I've had no problems with idling or shifting or uncontrolled revving.

uploadfromtaptalk1440394750687.jpg

This is the part that caused the high idle during shifts. Use the fmc part if u can

What do you mean "staying high upon initial startup?" What rpm are we talking about approximately?

I have a borg warner and it performed exactly the same as the oem one I replaced, only without the whistle the oem one was developing. Im just curious what rpm it started up at.

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

To help out a little, my truck starts up around 1500, then slowly goes down to idling speed after about 30 seconds.

And I've heard countless stories of the aftermarket IAC valves and coil packs, etc that are absolute horse shit, and are no where near as good as the original.

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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

Tyler is about right. I start at 1500 ish. But its supposed to drop after a min or so. The idea is to spread oil early. But when I had the aftermarket IAC I would stay high for three or four min. Or until I put it in gear. The difference is slight. But wrong none the less

Yeah I wouldn't say 20 seconds, I would say about a minute it would drop down to normal, but 3 minutes is a long time.

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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

This is exactly what mine does, sort of

When I crank it completely cold, the engine goes up to 2100rpm or so, but immediately drops to 1500rpm. And afterwords it takes about a minute to get down to normal idle. My OEM motorcraft did the same thing, so I can only assume thats how the PCM is programmed.

I dont like it. As I understand its for emissions- to heat up the cat. But 2100 as soon as it turns over? Is this the experience you have?

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s

Yeah I wouldn't say 20 seconds, I would say about a minute it would drop down to normal idle. But 3 minutes is way too long for it to go back down.

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2007 Regular Cab - 2.3 DOHC - 5 Speed Auto - 4.10 Gears - Maxtrac 7" Lift - Fiberwerx 3" Fenders - Bilstein 5100 Series - 15x10 Ultra 164's - 35x12.50x15 Red Letters - Custom dents

I saw that post I wasnt being clear- I was asking about the initial 2100rpm deal. It doesnt stay there even a second, but it does hit that before it immediately settles to 1500rpm, then drops down like you said in about a minute (or less). Anyways, not to derail the OPs thread...

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2002 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab, 2.3L Duratec I4, 5-speed manual, 4.10 gears, ~100,000 miles
Power nothing with air conditioning; crank windows for life!
Throttle cable mod, retained accessory power mod, 2006 thermostat w/resistor mod
Headlight relay harness, Philips xtreme-vision bulbs
P235/75R15 Michelin LTX M/S2s