CEL, codes, high idle, ABS light

KyBucks10 · #1 06-30-2015, 07:31 PM

Any help or remedy for my situations?

I know the intake has a leak in it. At least that's what the shop tells me. I replaced the intake gaskets, but that didn't do the trick. This is the only known issue I have.

For some reason, my ultra gauge is being a whiny little bitch and I can't get it to connect to my truck anymore, so I couldn't get trouble codes for the ABS light. But the local parts store read the CEL codes and they are as follows:
P1537
P0171
P0301

I did a little research on the P1537 code, and came up with this gem.

I haven't had a chance to play around and try to fix that, but once I do, I'll check back and let yall know if I fix it. As far as the other two codes (which I assume are coming from the leaky intake), could they cause the high idle? What my truck is doing is whenever I go to shift gears, I press in the clutch around 2800-3000 rpm, and my tach will jump nearly 500 rpm on every gear shift. Also, say I'm cruising in 5th (or any gear depending on my speed), I used to be able to pop it out of gear without touching the clutch as soon as I left off the accelerator when slowing down, but now I either have to yank on the shifter (which makes me nervous that I'm going to break some linkage) or push the clutch in. Once I finally get it out of gear, it usually revs up to 2000-3000 rpm depending on how fast I'm going, and then drops down to my normal stopped idle once I come to a complete stop. One last idle problem is it's fairly rough when stopped, but I'm not exactly surprised about that since the intake leaks. It jumps around from 700-1100 rpms when I'm sitting idle. I'm stumped on what's going on. Granted, it could be an easy fix, but I haven't done a ton of research on my issues yet.

Any tips on what I should do first? Ps, I'm talking about red ranger in my signature

riscorpian · #2 06-30-2015, 07:47 PM

P1537: Inspect both vacuum hoses on the control valve. One is probably loose or rotted out. Replace both regardless for piece of mind. If problem persists, you're not going to have any fun.

P0171: This very well could be a result of the above-mentioned vacuum hoses. Check for leaks wherever you can, and replace anything that even looks suspicious. Vacuum lines and accessories are not expensive, and they don't last forever. A lean condition on this motor is almost always caused by a vacuum leak. Another suspect area is the very front of the manifold behind the power steering pump. The cap that holds the runner valves in place is known to blow off and cause a major leak.

P0301: Either bad plugs or a dying coil pack. What're the ages on the plugs, wires, and coil pack? If any are more than 100,000 miles, replace immediately. P0301 is a misfire on cylinder 1. So if you suspect the plug or the wire is the problem, try swapping the plug with another cylinder. If the code follows, it's the plug. If not, it's the wire or coil. More likely the coil. Seriously, that coil pack does not last as long as you might think. And when it goes out, you know it.

KyBucks10 · #3 06-30-2015, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by riscorpian

Another suspect area is the very front of the manifold behind the power steering pump. The cap that holds the runner valves in place is known to blow off and cause a major leak

It's really funny and interesting that you say that. The shop told me that wherever the leak is, it's in the front of the intake. Is there any way you can get me a picture or diagram on where that sucker is? I'd almost be willing to bet this could be the culprit.

riscorpian · #4 06-30-2015, 09:32 PM

No pictures ready to post, unfortunately. But it's pretty easy to find. Just shine a light right in between the power steering pump and the intake manifold. The valves are positioned on the manifold immediately before the actual intake runners on the engine head.

GSF1200S · #5 07-01-2015, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by riscorpian

No pictures ready to post, unfortunately. But it's pretty easy to find. Just shine a light right in between the power steering pump and the intake manifold. The valves are positioned on the manifold immediately before the actual intake runners on the engine head.

+1

I have seen a few massive intake leaks in this subforum caused by that cap. Your issues sound definitely vacuum related. Thats the first place I would look.

Keeping the cap in is a pain. You have a couple of options:

1) Get a new intake manifold. You have a 2002 like me, and they as well as the 01s and the 03s (riscorpians year) have this very poor design called "swirl dampers" or Intake Manifold Runner Control. Its a set of butterflies in the intake manifold that closes part way below like 3k rpms; its supposed to give more torque by causing turbulence at low rpms to better mix the gas/air. It works, but because the manifold, butterflies, actuator housing, and connecting arms are all plastic, they fail by about 100k miles. Do a google search for "How to ruin a 2.3l duratec". When I replaced my manifold, the actuator arm was about ready to pop off the arm from the butterflies. I suggest checking this even if you find the problem- it can RUIN your engine if it fails the wrong way. It was so bad a design that in 2004 ford removed it completely incorporating a different manifold, different cams, and a different exhaust manifold. This netted the same torque, 9 more hp, and about a 1mpg improvement.

2) Find the plug, put it back in with some sealant, and put the manifold back on. I suggest to check and home fix the actuator rods on the back of the manifold at the same time. Then, cut a piece of wood that snugly fits between the manifold cap and the power steering bracket. This will prevent the plug from coming out.

KyBucks10 · #6 07-01-2015, 11:16 AM

Just spit balling ideas here, so don't crucify me. I'm going to have to wait until this weekend before I'm able to dig around on my engine and find these problem areas, but assuming the cap is missing, and assuming the intake has never been replaced (152,xxx miles old), do you guys think it would be smart to just go ahead and replace the whole intake, or would it be a waste of money? I can get the intake on rockauto for around $140, and my local shop would put it on for $70. Would $210 be silly assuming I confirm the missing cap, and the knowledge of faulty parts on this intake?

GSF1200S · #7 07-01-2015, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyBucks10

Just spit balling ideas here, so don't crucify me. I'm going to have to wait until this weekend before I'm able to dig around on my engine and find these problem areas, but assuming the cap is missing, and assuming the intake has never been replaced (152,xxx miles old), do you guys think it would be smart to just go ahead and replace the whole intake, or would it be a waste of money? I can get the intake on rockauto for around $140, and my local shop would put it on for $70. Would $210 be silly assuming I confirm the missing cap, and the knowledge of faulty parts on this intake?

In my opinion, yes it would be a good idea. There is likely all types of buildup from the pcv system gumming up the butterflies (you CAN clean it up), the actuator rods are likely worn out, the butterflies are likely worn causing more of the "clacking" duratecs have, and I personally would be terrified they would seize shut causing a starvation of air at high rpms leading to the cylinders being washed with fuel and thus destroying the rings. I replaced mine at 84k out of paranoia.

I really dont think you need a shop to install it for you. Its pretty easy to do yourself. Disconnect the air plenum from the throttle body, remove the power steering reservoir, take the serpentine belt off, loosen up and move the power steering pump, disconnect MAP, throttle body (great time to clean the throttle body too), IAC valve, vacuum lines, imrc vacuum line, disconnect imrc electrical, take out intake manifold bolts, and remove. Then just reinstall. Its more time consuming than hard. Up to you though...

riscorpian · #8 07-01-2015, 01:19 PM

You used to have to pay about $200 to get that manifold new on eBay, so $210 for a new Dorman unit and installation is a pretty good deal. It's worth it to just go ahead and replace it. As an added bonus, you get all new intake gaskets to go along with it!

Also, to anybody who is wondering, the Dorman manifold being referenced here is listed for only fitting the 2001 and 2002 2.3L motors. However, it is the same manifold used in the '03. It just won't show up on any product listings for it. That manifold is still the correct one though.

KyBucks10 · #9 07-02-2015, 10:30 AM

Just keeping everyone in the loop with my situation. Work is requiring me to drive to another branch for the foreseeable future, so my commute of 3 miles one way to work will now be 75 starting Monday. At any rate, with that long of a commute, and my problems with my truck, I went ahead and purchased the new intake. It should be here by the end of next week, and installation happening neek weekend. I'm hoping and praying that this will be the remedy to most of my problems. Oh, and I plan on doing plugs and wires this weekend assuming the rain holds off. This truck is realitivly new to me (I bought it at the beginning of March this year) so plugs and wires were something I was planning on doing this summer anyway. I'll try to check back next weekend (or sooner) with an update.

GSF1200S · #10 07-02-2015, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyBucks10

Just keeping everyone in the loop with my situation. Work is requiring me to drive to another branch for the foreseeable future, so my commute of 3 miles one way to work will now be 75 starting Monday. At any rate, with that long of a commute, and my problems with my truck, I went ahead and purchased the new intake. It should be here by the end of next week, and installation happening neek weekend. I'm hoping and praying that this will be the remedy to most of my problems. Oh, and I plan on doing plugs and wires this weekend assuming the rain holds off. This truck is realitivly new to me (I bought it at the beginning of March this year) so plugs and wires were something I was planning on doing this summer anyway. I'll try to check back next weekend (or sooner) with an update.

I were you, I personally wouldnt drive it 150 miles every day for 5 days with this problem. Please take your other truck and park this one until the manifold is changed and everything is fixed. Lean is bad. You have a cylinder misfire code, an intake manifold runner control stuck open code, AND a system lean code. Lean means hot. All kinds of damage may or may not occur running it like this. The valves will run hotter, the piston will run hotter, you will have more frictional loses at the rings, etc etc. The catalytic converter in lean conditions can get VERY hot causing the catalyst to melt inside rendering the cat bad. Not to mention the wear from sucking unfiltered air in at the source of the vacuum leak.

Please consider this advice. I think your approach for repair is the best one, so good on you there. I think you will fix your imrc code and you will either fix or find the cause of the lean code. The misfire code is more tricky- we'll have to see.

150 x 5 days = 750 miles. I dont like 750 miles with these issues at all.

**EDIT** I notice your RIP thread... do you have another vehicle?? Dude I feel for you if you dont- really I do- but can you get a ride or take the bus or something?

What does everyone else think? Would you drive it? Am I just being paranoid here?

KyBucks10 · #11 07-02-2015, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GSF1200S

I were you, I personally wouldnt drive it 150 miles every day for 5 days with this problem. Please take your other truck and park this one until the manifold is changed and everything is fixed. Lean is bad. You have a cylinder misfire code, an intake manifold runner control stuck open code, AND a system lean code. Lean means hot. All kinds of damage may or may not occur running it like this. The valves will run hotter, the piston will run hotter, you will have more frictional loses at the rings, etc etc. The catalytic converter in lean conditions can get VERY hot causing the catalyst to melt inside rendering the cat bad. Not to mention the wear from sucking unfiltered air in at the source of the vacuum leak.

Please consider this advice. I think your approach for repair is the best one, so good on you there. I think you will fix your imrc code and you will either fix or find the cause of the lean code. The misfire code is more tricky- we'll have to see.

150 x 5 days = 750 miles. I dont like 750 miles with these issues at all.

**EDIT** I notice your RIP thread... do you have another vehicle?? Dude I feel for you if you dont- really I do- but can you get a ride or take the bus or something?

What does everyone else think? Would you drive it? Am I just being paranoid here?

Trust me, bud. I bitched and moaned to my manager and boss for a good hour today about getting a company vehicle for this commute, but I lost that battle through and through. It actually pissed me off so bad that I nearly refused to do it if they wouldn't provide me with another vehicle. The only reason I let it go is I made this drive all last week, and it didn't seem to bother red ranger too bad. I guess the only good thing about it is I'm able to fix my truck at no charge to me since I'll be using the money from my reimbursement to pay for everything.

GSF1200S · #12 07-02-2015, 11:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyBucks10

Trust me, bud. I bitched and moaned to my manager and boss for a good hour today about getting a company vehicle for this commute, but I lost that battle through and through. It actually pissed me off so bad that I nearly refused to do it if they wouldn't provide me with another vehicle. The only reason I let it go is I made this drive all last week, and it didn't seem to bother red ranger too bad. I guess the only good thing about it is I'm able to fix my truck at no charge to me since I'll be using the money from my reimbursement to pay for everything.

People in this world dont give a f*** about anyone else's problems. Dog eat dog.

I know how this is, but i consider what I see to be dangerous to the engine and basically an emergency in this case. Imagine if thursday it burns a valve and you have no vehicle at all. System lean means the fuel injection system cannot compensate for the lean condition- and you dont know how bad the a/f ratio is off! I suggest you at least try to temporarily find and fix the vacuum leak this weekend before work next week. Pull the belt, take the airbox hose loose from the throttle body, move the power steering pump, and check for that hole at the front of the manifold. If you find it, get a cap or something to seal the hole (maybe use some sealant with the plug as well), then cut a block of wood to stuff between the power steering bracket and the plug. If that is not your only vacuum leak, carefully use carb cleaner with the truck idling and spray all around the vacuum hoses, connections and intake manifold to head mounting surfaces. An increase in idle speed will indicate a leak where youre spraying. Try to fix it.

Lets hope the misfire code is due to the lean condition and will be remedied by fixing the vacuum leak temporarily. Based on the IMRC code, I think you will be ok. IMRC stuck shut is dangerous since higher RPM can wash the cylinder with fuel and ruin the rings. Stuck open? Im honestly unsure. I would think the fuel injection could compensate and you would only suffer some power loss with no adverse wear. However, greater airflow since the butterflies are open means the fuel injection must inject more fuel, and hopefully it can compensate enough.

Might I suggest leaving for work an hour early and taking it real easy no matter what you do? Keep RPM low and speeds at 55mph. Take back roads if you have to- use the slow lane. Lean is not something to play with! Again, i totally get your trouble- been there myself before and it sucks. But really unless 5 members jump in here saying that im worrying too much, I would treat this as an emergency.

riscorpian · #13 07-03-2015, 07:48 AM

The lean condition isn't too bad. It puts some extra stress on the engine, but she's a lot tougher than she looks. That engine can take it. What concerns me the most is that misfire. It doesn't matter how amazingly strong your engine is, a misfire will shave a lot of time off of the engine's expected life every time it happens. I wouldn't drive it in that condition. It sounds like it just feels worse than it actually is though.

Definitely try any band-aid fixes you can think of for now. If there's anything that makes it run even marginally better without obvious long-term consequences, do it. If it is indeed that cap blowing off on the front of the manifold, the odds are pretty good that it's still there somewhere. Mine, as well as many others', just popped out and got stuck between the manifold and power steering pump. You might be able to wiggle it back in there without removing the pump, provided you have enough patience and creativity. Try coating it with red RTV or something, jamming it in place, and then shoving the block of wood in there as suggested above (nice idea there, I hadn't thought of that!).

If you find any other vacuum leaks… Hell, you could put an actual Band-Aid on 'em if you want. Believe it or not, that would probably help. Just take pictures if you do. That would be hilarious.

KyBucks10 · #14 07-04-2015, 04:21 PM

Update:

I changed the plugs and wires today. Fired it up and it idled fairly rough at first and there was a weird knock. The knock almost sounded like flicking an empty water bottle but it was sporadic. There wasn't a consistent "beat" if you will with that noise. Maybe 3-5 seconds between each flick. I made a video of it and will upload it to YouTube so I can post it here if yall are interested or think it could be a major problem. Well that lasted for maybe 45 seconds and the idle cleared up and the knock went away. I'm guessing the computer was adjusting to the new and improved spark? Any explanations on that? At any rate, I stood under the hood to listen and watch for maybe five minutes while she ran and it sounded good. The idle was smooth and it seemed to be doing really well. So I grab a Mt. Dew and a can of dip and drove her around for a little while. I can honestly say that I don't think I have ever felt such a significant improvement after something so minor. She ran smooth, shifted normal, didn't rev up real high between shift changes, nothing. It purred like a kitten. So I ended back up at the parts store and had them check the codes. Btw, the CEL was off, but I just attested that to me undoing the negative battery cable while doing the plugs. They hook up the scanner and the only code showing was P1537. I wanted to double check that, so I ran to another parts store (this time I went to the original store who gave me the codes the other day) and had them test it. Again, the only CEL code was the P1537, but it did show the P1000 where I unhooked the battery. I just need to drive it around some more to confirm the other two codes are gone.

It definitely gives me hope that the P0301 code is gone based on how much better it drove. I'm not exaggerating when I say it was one of the most significant improvements I've ever seen for such a simple operation. Do you guys think I have a good chance of not seeing the P0301 code again once I drive it around a while?

riscorpian · #15 07-04-2015, 07:12 PM

Was your A/C on? That click was probably just the compressor clutch kicking in.