do u have an owners manual? b/c i found a manual but its for a 1996 but it might be the same fuse layout as yours. go to page 314 and its on the left side and it says fuel pump relay...
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/frf/manuals/1996.pdf
just pull the relay and make sure it checks out ok

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2001 XLT 4x4 V6 4.0L auto
SAS'd D44 and 8.8. dual lockers, 36" super swamper tsl radials
some other odds and ends
and for anyone who "wants" to SAS there truck, quit asking questions and read!
http://www.fordrangerforum.com/proje...axle-swap.html

Well that tends to happen when you use it driving around???? Or did it just mysteriously go from full to 1/2?

Look, regardless of whats going on, the switch you trying to find still has nothing to do with this. It is an inertia activated and manual reset on/off switch that will not produce the symptoms you've described. And based on what you've described, I don't even see a problem. You're draining the fuel lines and then wondering why there is no fuel in them the moment you start the truck next time. I don't understand where the problem here is.

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FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: Air intake, air temperature, MAF, and other fact vs fiction
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

Thanks , ill try it and hopefully that does the trick

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96' Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0L

Mechanic told me mine was directly below the second dash air vent to the left, from the passenger side, on the inner firewall.

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Cree Proverb

Free VIN Decoder: http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

~1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-Banger 206,700+++miles~

It went from almost empty to when i put gas into it , that it went to 1/2 a tank

I havent driven it since i put the gas into it , cause i cant get the truck started currently

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96' Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0L

Did your truck start up right after you completed this work and right before you disconnected the battery for 7 minutes?

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08 4.0 Sport 4x4
Stock
Current MPG via Fuelly
EPA estimated 14/17 mpg

No the truck didnt start , the battery is good , the only thing i did was take a baffle out of the air cleaner that restricts the air flow , so i origionally took it out , but then i couldnt afford any problems the day before i go to work so

I had the truck run 1 time with taking the air restricture out , but then after that like i said i put the baffle back in , and then i went to restart the computer for 7 minutes by taking off the negative cable and so far nothing has happened , it has clicked like the battery is bad but the battery is fine , only other thing i thought was maybe the starter is going bad

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96' Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0L

Ok, I'm totally lost on how we went from a fuel pressure problem to a battery problem. But whatever.

Regarding this new problem that we're on now... Either the battery is shot or the battery cables are making poor connection to the battery terminals. Considering you were screwing with the battery cables when the problem began, logic points to the battery cables not making good connection.

I know I've said this to you multiple times before and unfortunately this just continues to reinforce it so I'll say it again. Take the truck to a mechanic before you do something that destroys it or hurts someone/yourself.

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FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: Air intake, air temperature, MAF, and other fact vs fiction
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

Well all i did was kept the battery charging and unplugged and replugged in the fuel pump plug and now its working great

Thanks for everyone help , hopefully no more problems

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96' Explorer XLT 4X4 4.0L

rofl

Hey Gang

Thought I'd stop in to update on what's happening with MY particular issue.

I joined up recently and opened with a fairly long thread about FUEL PROBLEMS - where the truck would start, die right away and then not start for over an hour, and it would be that way constantly. You coud just never trust that it would or wouldn't start. I was taking my chances.

Changed the following:
1. Fuel Pump - $90.00
2. FUEL REGULATOR - $25.00
3. TIMING BELT (had 180k on it) - w/ Labor = $500 (in January)
4. COILS (2) on top of engine - $100.00
5. W. Timing Belt were the Crank Sensor and the CAM sensor ($40/ea)
6. FUEL FILTER (obviously) - $10.00

Now - seeing as how there isn't much else, save for this one last item, which seems to be more about fuel economy that anything else... I think I've hit on the whole FUEl system-

7. AIR FLOW regulator - top / back of engine, has a plug on it ($40.00)

Later on about a week ago - one guy discusses his issues with his Explorer.

And, it is about THIS thread.....

You are correct - it is on the passenger side under the dash, almost against the right side panel bulkhead - mine doesn't have an orange cap where you push in to reset -- it's all black and the mounting screws are offsite, just like what you see in the Manual>

Advance Auto only carries the generic one-size-fits-all part: $85.00
Apparently, If I can find it at the Dealer, it's twice as much.
The problem with the generic version is you have to cut wires and custom mount the replacement type Advance Auto sells. If I can, I will see if the Dealer has the real thing, for a few bucks more.

Here's the thing - this does sound like how my problems have been behaving. Sometimes I can hear the fuel pump whirring and other times, no deal. So, it's hit or miss, on whether it will pressure up to get the engine started. I do know that once it has started, it has only died on me twice thru the couple dozen times I've had this issue...

So - overall - it could be that, much like computers, simply unplugging the fuel cutoff switch and re-plugging it back in, could be a part of what makes the problem go away. I'm testing this premise today - it's along weekend, I got nuthin else to do.............

So, I put the truck all back together and in doing so, made sure to double check the wiring harness that goes to the Fuel Pump, itself... everything seems good. We'll find out.

Oh - I did check at the Dealer about replacing my fuel fill hose....it costs in the hundreds, but I got a printout and will look online elsewhere - told FORD what they could do about driving customers away.

From the description on how this little device works - to me it's a fuel collision switch -- but they can call it whatever... At least now, I know I've checked everything --- only thing left would be the truck computer... and I'll just go buy another Ranger from someone and move on at that point.

Thanks

PDF Manual? talk about finding a gold brick, wow. Anyplace to find others around?

__________________
Cree Proverb

Free VIN Decoder: http://www.compnine.com/vid.php

~1994 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4-Banger 206,700+++miles~

PDF Manuals.....if thats what you where asking are here:

Ford Ranger Owners Manuals

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More Good News.....

I started having more of the same old problems. Truck wouldn't start, then it would. Then, it wouldn't. Crazy, frustrating to point of wishing hand grenades were an option at Menards.
Finally, got to talking to someone and found his little sub-compact was having the same issues. Only he was taking his car back to the Dealer all the time for the repair process...costing him a lot more than I've been investing. He finally found out that his Fuel Injector "wiring harness" was shorting out, and his Dealer basically replaced the item at cost, with no labor charges since they hadn't bothered previously to check into it. Like myself, he's done throwing money at such nonsense.

HOT NOTE - always have someone check the Injector-wiring-harness....
(this seems to be a growing issue on all cars)
2nd NOTE - make sure they check the wiring harness to the fuel pump, as well.

So, anyway.. it ended up being found that my injector-wiring-harness was bad and 2 of the injectors were shot, with another being suspect. Those items are about $80/ea. Along with that, the Mechanic thinks the fuel pump is suspect. As stated previously, my new fuel pump was purchased just a little over a year ago. Got it at Advance Auto, and luckily, the Store Manager said to have the Mechanic just bring it in and he would go ahead and honor the warranty... shuffle some paperwork, for me. <sweet>

That was all last Friday... should know something early this next week.

My problem is the truck is so old, there's no blue book value left on it, hardly at all. So, it the repair costs are too great, I'll probably just sign the title over to pay the bill. It's been a good truck until this nonsense with the wiring started giving me fits.

Hope this helps others... when it comes to having ignition issues.

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"There's Always Room for 1 more PackerFan!"
1996 SuperCab Ranger / 210,000mi
2.3 4.0 cyl engine / 5 speed
Black w/ Grey Interior / MIke's Car Wash Only
Would like to re-paint it

Thanks for the heads up and hope you don't have to sign it away. It's a shame to see a truck like that go away. I had that experience and it hurts badly. So, but good luck with your problem and hope everything is well. Take care.

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FrostBite
2002 Ford Ranger Edge Flex Fuel 2wd
LED Crazy!
Complete Pioneer Audio setup
6000k HID Headlights and Fogs
Super Turbo Dynomax Exhaust
Mustang Dome Light Mod - Fog Light Mod
Goodyear 255/45/20 with chrome "BIGG" rims