is it really necessary to replace the camshaft sensor synchronizer shaft along with the sensor? seems like a lot of work....

On the 3.0 YES. They are known for bad bearings which can lead to the oil pump stopping as it is driven by the synchro. If it wobbles enough to ruin the sensor then its time. Its not a bad swap but if left unnatended for a long time it can ruin your motor which is much more work lol.

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New DD-2009 Mustang GT/CS candy apple red

(For Sale)2003 XLT 5speed swap, Hurst Shifter, STX valance SLP drop coils, thunderbolt hood scoop,Screamin demon coil, Flo-pro super v, 1.8:1 Morana rockers, Roush sway bars, SCT tuned by Fred at Rogue, Taurus E-fan, 15x8 Torque thrust wheels gunmetal on chrome, Led 06 tails and smoked HID projectors, mud flap delete, painted drums/calipers, Rear flip kit.

its easy to do if its a 4 u will need a 18 socket short extensions and a swivel remove bolt and bar make sure your timing is at tdc 0
then oull sync but be care full remove top cover i think the bolts are 7/32 if i'm correct remove cap then after area cleared remove sync to put in is easy align then bolt down with bar and bolt then put cap on then wire and tighten bolts and done it will take u at least a good hr to do pretty much easy our 4 cyls are easy to work on if u know what your doing?

That depends on what type of camshaft position sensor he has, if it's from before 95 it is similar to what the 3.0 has and operates off a distributor gear, but if it's 95 or later it is all electronic and operates of magnetic pulse received from the auxiliary gear which is driven by the timing belt. It is just bolts to the side of the block next to the power steering pump and takes about fifteen minutes to change when you find it.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

Yeah, it's a '94 2.3l. I can see the sensor on what used to be the distributer shaft. I'll do them both.

Do the crank i'll be honest with u but hold up before u do anything u said 94 with cali emissions hold up

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I have the same ranger do u have a module on the driver side of the intake with 2 wires coming out of it i'll send u a pic of what it looks like

its not any of those parts the module on your truck has died i had that happen a while back before i did the rebuild

California emissions requirement for the sensor is for 95 or newer but doesn't effect engine operations. 94 all 2.3 had it because it is required to make the engine run.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

My module is on the drivers side, right under the #1 spark plug and the ICM module. there is a plug with 3 wires coming out. it's mounted to the dummy shaft where the distributor shaft used to be. I just wanted to see if I can save the effort of replacing the shaft and aligning it since i have to tear down that whole side of the engine to get to it. But these posts are showing me that it is necessary.

I wouldn't go that route yet I think you should get the ignition control module tested first.

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2014 F150 xl 3.7 6 speed auto.

I did test it. it's good.

wow that was my first guess icm but changed cam and crank go from there as coils do go bad as well

I,ve had 2 94,s that we raced and we never even ran the cam sensor,never was any different with it hooked up or not.I know it does throw a code with it unhooked but no difference in performance or starting.The shaft does get worn and i think the reason they suggest to replace is that it also runs the oil pump.Make sure you have a good ground in the upper left corner screw in the gray box on the intake,even a bod ground will give you a no start