I have a 2001 2.3 4 cylinder that steadily leaks coolant. I recently replaced the radiator and the problem persists. When I turn off the truck I can smell a burning smell and in the morning there's leaked coolant under the truck, and occasionally, thin white smoke coming from the passenger side under the hood while the engine remains at normal temperature. What's the issue?

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2001 2.3 liter manual 4 cylinder regular cab stock

Had the same problem recently. It was my heater control valve. It is a plastic part with two heater hoses going in and two coming out going to the heater core (at the fire wall) and a small vacuum line. Get a flashlight and look up at it from underneath the passenger side.

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1996 Black Splash 2x4, 2.3, 4sp./od, 133x, new front shocks and brake pads, new timing belt and water pump, new fuel fill and hoses, 8 new plugs and wires.

You'd better hope to God it's not the "coolant recovery tank hose". Ford wanted to charge me $671 in labor alone to replace the hose. There is a plastic "T", to which the hoses are molded. The heater control valve is easy to visibly inspect and confirm (Google for pictures to get an idea). Check the recovery hose plastic tee by carefully wiggling it after the engine is warm. Wear gloves, or else... Also, the plastic coolant reservoirs get brittle and crack over time.

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2002 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4cyl

Hi, new to the forum, and could sure use some extra thoughts, i am facing the dreaded broken "Tee" on the coolant recovery hose line, anyone have any change out experiance replacing this one piece hose assembly, "great design"LOL.
$600.00+ in labor at the ford store WTF!!!
i see where the rh side mount brkts are under the exaust manifold and i understand the placement routing, but what i would like to know is what the best plan of attack might be, from the looks of things an AC comp will have to be moved and ECT ECT.
so as to not dissconnect or remove anything i don't need to,
i would like to hear about the horror stories you might have,
i don't have the luxury of a lift, so jackstands and the shade tree will have to do for now.
any and all advice is much appreciated.
ps: its the wifes rig, so you know....... happy wife, happy life
Thanks! CB

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2002 FORD Ranger,
XLT Standard cab, 2.3 eng,
Man, trans

Replacing the coolant recovery hose is a job, not for the faint of heart.
The dealership wanted to charge me $800 after everything. I bought the motorcraft part on ebay for $70 and gave my shady tree mechanic $300 for labor. He said he would rather rebuild the transmission than have to replace that part again. Next time, he suggested getting a metal tee and some hose clamps to rig it up. Depending on the age and condition of the hoses, I would opt for that route...

There are a few generic guides on replacing it the right way. Most involve removing the exhaust and dropping the tranny to get enough clearance to work.

May the force be with you, always.

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2002 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4cyl

I just changed out the coolant line. Dropped 5 speed tranny, removed alternator, un-mounted a/c conpressor from engine. But did not unhook lines. Just laid it on engine. Unhooked exhaust down by the o2 sensor. Took some time, but didn't cost me but for the part. Truck runs great.

2002 Ford Ranger XLT. 2.3L engine, 5 speed manual transmission. 175,000 miles on it. I love it, great truck, it is a shame they stopped making them.

"Semper Fi"

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[QUOTE="Perduena;2223787"]I just changed out the coolant line. Dropped 5 speed tranny, removed alternator, un-mounted a/c conpressor from engine. But did not unhook lines. Just laid it on engine. Unhooked exhaust down by the o2 sensor. Took some time, but didn't cost me but for the part. Truck runs great. 2002 Ford Ranger XLT. 2.3L engine, 5 speed manual transmission. 175,000 miles on it. I love it, great truck, it is a shame they stopped making them. ["Semper Fi"]

I got the same problem with the broken T on coolant return on my 2003 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L. I am trying to fix it in one of the two following ways. 1- if I can find the metallic T then I would replace it by breaking the molded T connector and replacing it but it will not be easy since there is no space. Second way which I think its easier is to buy the three hose assembly, cut only the two hoses , one toward the fire wall and the small one and remove the hose towards the front completely. use a simple straight connector to connect the new hosed to the two cut hoses and connect the new hose to the front of the engine. What do you guys think about this approach? has anyone done it this way?

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2003 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3L