Engine stutter and Radiator emptying into overflow

97Ranger-78Vette · #1 03-20-2010, 07:04 PM

First post in many years, I couldn't remember my log-in, so I'm a newbie homer once again.
I changed oil and filter 300 miles ago and the problems started immediately after that. I did overfill my oil by 3/4 quart, but drained that excess out after about 20 miles.
My Ranger's symptoms...
Started to stutter and miss...so I changed plugs and wires
Didn't help
Still stuttering and now radiator is emptying into overflow...
New thermostat...no good...new Rad cap...no good...
Negative pressure is building in the cooling system, my upper rad. hose is sucked in(lack of better word), and I almost have to pry off the rad cap because of the pressure. So now I'm thinking head gasket after seeing some water out of tailpipe at higher rpms in driveway.
Used Bar's Head Gasket Fix $30 bottle. Still getting the water... and the engine miss is still there.
Catatalitic Converter? I wouldn't know how too check.
Went to shop to get codes:
p1443 MFG con aux emission control
p0133 O2 sensor bank 1
p0155 heater circuit bank 2 sensor 1
p0402 egr flow excessive
p0171 system too lean bank 1
p0174 system too lean bank 2

This is what I know, and that's also the problem, because I need help...

1997 Ranger STX XLT 4.0 V6 155,555 miles. GR Michigan

97Ranger-78Vette · #2 03-30-2010, 11:15 AM

Living in Michigan, I haven't been under the same emission standards as some of you. My cel has been on for 7 years. Originally the code was for O2 sensors. I changed them all and the cel light stayed on for the same reason. I dismissed it, and learned to live with the light on. I actually thought the bulb would have burned out by now.

I've changed the EGR valve 3 times. The current (1 year old) egr valve from NAPA is showing signs of deteriation, but I've checked it for air leaks...nothing...

Cleaned throttle body and sensor... ran good at idle for about 3 minutes then started stuttering again.

Bought another rad cap. and replaced the thermostat again.

Still pushing water out of muffler at higher RPM's while in driveway. Not alot, but more than what i'd noticed before.

Still pushing Rad fluid into overflow and not bringing it back when engine cools down.

I continually refill the rad by syphoning from overflow. I'm not really losing alot of fluid, but I can smell some burning on the engine while stopped at stop lights.

Last night, I was not getting heat into the cab, until after about 5 miles and after messing with all settings (DEF,HEAT,VENT...etc), it finally started to blow heat.

My temp range has never been above mid range during this ordeal...I have not overheated my engine yet as far as the thermostat has indicated.

Does this sound like a blown head gasket or warped head?

Any advice would be appreciated...
Thanks

rangerak · #3 03-30-2010, 02:37 PM

Have you when engine is hot cracked open the cap briefly and let it blow off some steam/trapped air? Have you tried to "burp" the heater hose to do the same? Something I always do after anything is done to the coolant system. What is the level in the radiator when you check it when cold? Is there an oil sheen in radiator fluid? Is there a milky looking substance under the oil fill cap? Try leaving your radiator cap in the half on position for awhile to help both work the air out and retrieve the fluid a little easier. A little water out the exhaust is not unusual it is just condensation. Even though you live where the emission laws are lax doesn't mean those codes don't matter. Your truck will run better when the system is working the way it is supposed to. Original cat?

cloud9 · #4 05-10-2010, 10:43 AM

2000 Ranger XLT 4x4 is leaking coolant @ head. Thermostat is slow to engage, but runs normally when engine has been running 5 minutes or so. Gauge has never gone above mid-range on thermostat, but the leak has gotten much worse... seemingly overnight. Leak gets started when system heats up and pressurizes, and continues well after engine is turned off and car is sitting. I am able to top off coolant and drive short distances, keeping RPM low, but want to get it fixed ASAP. What is is the process/cost/ reality of fixing this @ home? and does anyone know the standard rate for this kind of job?

At this point i am thinking blown head gasket, but would welcome any other suggestions as to what might be the problem... thanks for the help!