I have a 2001 4.0 Ranger. Runs rough. All the plugs are getting spark,
the coil pack is producing spark but I have a po305 misfire code

when I pull out the plug wire from the coil pack the engine changes on all but number 5. the sound of the engine stays the same

the truck seems to run great around town and on the highway

my question is can a coil pack put out enough power to spark the plug but not enough to combust?

when I hold the plug wires above the coil pack I can see spark going across gap on all ports on coil park

any help would be great

would the coil pack issue caus a rattle of the engine

If there is no change when number 5 is unplugged, then Number 5 is bad. Yes a coil can be lazy (not enough spark). Try checking the other end of the wire, maybe the wire is bad.

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2001 Ford Ranger with the flare sides. 4x4 with a 4.0 engine. The only thing I did so far is: F/R Brakes, rotors, drums, F/R shocks, tires, bed cap, cone filter, hanger/shackles, F/P wheel bearing, upper control arm, lower ball joint, filler neck, fuel filter and DPFE sensor, muffler, sway bar links and spark plugs!

Right after I changed the plugs, I checked for spark on the wires. I think they are good. I changed the coil, still the same issue. I am going to pull the plug again and check. If the plug and the wires are ok. Would a bad fuel injector cause this same problem or could it be more of an issue? The engine makes a low ticking sound like when you type on a iPad or iPhone.

Do a compression test on all the cylinders and post the numbers before you do anything else.

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

I have a compression tester on they way. Good deal amazon long wait. Check the plugs again all good. Pulled number 5 plug disconnected the coil pack had my son turn key. Placed hand over plug hole (did not block hole) did not feel any mist of gas at all. I think it would be the number 5 injector. I hope that is it and not something to do with compression. I am going to have someone do the injector how much should this run?

On my Subaru vehicle, I unplug the injectors instead of the plugs to see a change in the engine's performance. So yes, a bad injector is a possibility.

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2001 Ford Ranger with the flare sides. 4x4 with a 4.0 engine. The only thing I did so far is: F/R Brakes, rotors, drums, F/R shocks, tires, bed cap, cone filter, hanger/shackles, F/P wheel bearing, upper control arm, lower ball joint, filler neck, fuel filter and DPFE sensor, muffler, sway bar links and spark plugs!

Is it possible to remove and replace injector #5 with out removing the manifold? In my research I saw a video of one being done on a four cyl ranger. thanks or any help

When you removed #5 plug and it didn't effect the engine RPM you have a compression issue, that's why I suggested a compression check to confirm.
When you disconnect the injector or the plug wire and there's no change, that cylinder is just free wheeling and not doing anything, like removing the sparkplug and running the engine like that....

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

The ranger is at a friends house, I will have him do a compression check first and than try the injector. Would it be safe to say that if you pull the plug and disconnect the coil pack that you would be able to test the fuel injector by cranking the engine and with you hand above number 5 spark plug hole you should be able to feel a mist of gas. If the fuel injector is working. Thanks again, I am learning more ever day.

Rangerman49,
He said the plug wire was pulled out, not the plug.

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2001 Ford Ranger with the flare sides. 4x4 with a 4.0 engine. The only thing I did so far is: F/R Brakes, rotors, drums, F/R shocks, tires, bed cap, cone filter, hanger/shackles, F/P wheel bearing, upper control arm, lower ball joint, filler neck, fuel filter and DPFE sensor, muffler, sway bar links and spark plugs!

I understood, What I was saying is if you pull the plug wire and there's no noticeable change in RPMs then you have a dead cylinder, it's call a cylinder balance test, he mentioned that he pulled the other wire and did get a change, I'm thinking a valve issue since he did not mention that was burning oil.
I think that the injector for #5 is fine....

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

What is a dead cylinder? Would my first plan of action be

A compression test

What should I do next?

I have also read a number of post that said the engine has not overheated.

This ranger was involved in a front end hit. The body shop that picked it up drove it for about four miles without any antifreeze in it. Could that have caused the problem.

I am looking to make this a keeper, but I can not afford to pay someone to check all these things out. So I am trying to do this myself.

A dead cylinder is one with little or no compression...

1) do a compression test, all cylinders should be within at least 15% of the highest reading ,I prefer 10% but that's just me.
If #5 is much lower than the rest, then I would a leak down test.
Watch video on leak down testing, it's long but this guy knows his stuff,

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

I forgot to add, running the engine for 4mi. without water or coolant may have caused the issue your now dealing with, just a wild guess though....

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2011 Ranger XLT 2x4,4.0 SOHC, 5 Speed Auto, 3.55 Rear. Oxford White.

Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.

Torque it down till it breaks off, then back it off 1/4 turn.

I recall watching this video, very nice I might try this my self. I have a compressor and Auto Zone will rent out a compression tester for $40 and return the $40 when you return the part. Not sure if I can do this Monday and the next chance that I will have to do it will be the following Monday.
I will let you know. Thank You for the video. I have watched a number of his video's and they a very good. What is the correct compression for A 4.0 SOHC FORD?