So I want to use a switch like the one in the pic to control the electric fan when I install it and was curious where the best place would be to mount it. Should I mount it in the water outlet or is there a better place to put it?

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1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.

It will need to go somewhere between the thermostat housing and the radiator. Somewhere you can drill a hole and mount that.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

That seems a tad overpriced for what you get. Its also missing AC override, that is absolutely needed if you want the ac to work at a stop. I have something like this on my truck.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16759/

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99 x-cab 4x4 4.0l auto
mods, cranked t-bars, silencer delete, k&n drop in, Trans Go stage 3 shift kit,3200stall Fuddle Racing Torque Converter,
VANIR 63mm TB, Roush split rear exit exhuast, E-Fan, JBA headers
Auto up/down both windows, OHC, EATC

03 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

Where's the best place to tap in for 12V accessory?

__________________
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.

Way to non specific. Try again.

< Sent using the FRF Android app. So you can hate me when I'm mobile too >

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

The battery.

__________________
99 x-cab 4x4 4.0l auto
mods, cranked t-bars, silencer delete, k&n drop in, Trans Go stage 3 shift kit,3200stall Fuddle Racing Torque Converter,
VANIR 63mm TB, Roush split rear exit exhuast, E-Fan, JBA headers
Auto up/down both windows, OHC, EATC

03 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

Ill be getting the combatant 12v for the relay from there but I also need a source of power that's only hot when the key is on.

__________________
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.

I have my truck wired so that the fan will come on when ever the radiator is hot. The coolant still circulates throughout the engine even off. Its personal preference.

Otherwise if you have an aftermarket head unit that is a good spot.

__________________
99 x-cab 4x4 4.0l auto
mods, cranked t-bars, silencer delete, k&n drop in, Trans Go stage 3 shift kit,3200stall Fuddle Racing Torque Converter,
VANIR 63mm TB, Roush split rear exit exhuast, E-Fan, JBA headers
Auto up/down both windows, OHC, EATC

03 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

Gotcha so your fan will actually keep running when you shut the truck off if the engine is still hot right? Possible that could drain your battery but I'd imagine the truck would get cool before it had a chance.

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1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.

Running the fan with the engine is off is completely unnecessary and a very bad idea. It will ruin your battery very quickly.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

Which is why I'm gonna run mine through a relay, which is why I was asking about a good wire that's only hot when the key is on.

__________________
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.

Do you wear tin hats too?

On the hottest of days the fan will cycle 4 or 5 times for 2 or 3 minutes in a half hour after the truck is shut off. Also it will not ruin the battery, if anything keeping the under-hood temps from baking the battery possibly extending its life.

Unnecessary maybe, like I said it is personal preference.



Buy a controller kit they come with relays, that thermo switch you link is way overpriced compared to other options like the one I linked that is ready to go.

__________________
99 x-cab 4x4 4.0l auto
mods, cranked t-bars, silencer delete, k&n drop in, Trans Go stage 3 shift kit,3200stall Fuddle Racing Torque Converter,
VANIR 63mm TB, Roush split rear exit exhuast, E-Fan, JBA headers
Auto up/down both windows, OHC, EATC

03 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

Speaking of battery temp, at work I sell and install batteries on a daily basis and I've come to the conclusion that those battery wraps that some cars have from the factory do more harm than good. They may keep the battery warm in the winter but they cook them in the summer.

I recently picked one up actually and already have a pair of fans (I believe from a dodge caravan). Just wanted to find out where other were getting their "key on" power for the relay.

__________________
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.

<sigh>

Umm, this makes no sense in the context of this discussion. And it makes even less sense, if that's even possible, since what you're saying is totally wrong.


Which is completely unnecessary. No vehicle does this from the factory. And no vehicle properly modified for an electric fan aftermarket does this when installed properly. Can you do multiplication? That's running the fan for on battery for 15 minutes without the engine running.


Reference above math. Operating the fan on battery for 10-15 after shutting the engine off over and over and over WILL 110% guaranteed ruin your battery. Automotive starting batteries are not designed for that kind of use. Doing it once is bad for it. Doing it over and over every time you use the truck is exponentially bad for it.

This is not a dome light. Those things draw on average 15-20 amps.


Bullshit. That is not an issue and they're designed for that kind of environment. The other 4,999,999,999 vehicles on the road that have properly operating fans only when the engine is running demonstrate this.


And it is the OP's personal preference to do it the right way or the wrong way. I wonder who he'll trust...


The only thing you've said that I agree with.




For key-on power...
There are a number of fuses in the fuse panel in the cab that are on ignition only circuits. Use one of those nifty ad-a-fuse taps available at any auto parts store to safely and properly tap into the circuit and keep it protected. Get a 2.5 or 5 amp fuse for this add-on circuit.





And I do recommend a controller like he showed in his link. It has it's own relay and all the temp sensing and overrides built in. You will need to tap into the purple wire behind the HVAC panel for the AC override wire on the controller also.

__________________
(Formerly)
FireRanger
2003 Edge 4.0 4wd

How to: Aux light wiring, relays, & fuses
Info: 300+ intake threads here on FRF
Info: HID Projectors
How To: NO HEAT Troubleshooting Guide

[QUOTE="FireRanger"
And I do recommend a controller like he showed in his link. It has it's own relay and all the temp sensing and overrides built in. You will need to tap into the purple wire behind the HVAC panel for the AC override wire on the controller also.[/QUOTE]

Nope AC doesn't work (at least not currently) in fact I don't even have it in the belt drive anymore. Not sure if I'm gonna remove it or fix it next summer.

__________________
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 4.0
Runs like crap and gets crappy gas mileage.... But for $600 I'm not complaining.