I did my first oil change on my 2011 XLT 4x4 today using 5 quarts of Motorcraft 5w30 synthetic blend oil and an ACDelco PF1250 filter I ordered from Rock Auto. I picked up the oil from Auto Zone so I got a free filter. It was the Motorcraft FL820s. This filter is also listed on several automotive parts sites for this motor and truck model. I also had to pick up a new oil filter socket because none that I had would fit the original filter. The socket fit perfectly around the original filter but it won’t fit on the Motorcraft filter because it not manufactured to fit onto the socket. The ACDelco filter fits on it perfectly but the filter is about an inch shorter than the original one. Not that the inch is going to make a huge deal so I used it. I would rather use a filter I can remove without having to buy some special removal tool to remove it.

So I guess I don’t understand why a filter is suggested to be used on a motor where removing it would be difficult and require some special tool to do so.

__________________
Don't crash into a tree just to avoid a skunk!
2011 XLT 4x4 with RKE Keypad.

Pretty much depends on how much you tighten it. If it's super tight you'll need the tool, obviously the companies want it to be super tight for warranty reasons(?). I usually hand tighten mine, never had any problems and dont need any tools

I always hand tighten mine too but, taking it back off is another thing.

__________________
Don't crash into a tree just to avoid a skunk!
2011 XLT 4x4 with RKE Keypad.

Why not just use a standard oil filter wrench? Works on everything from 1900-present, cheap too. Always use Motorcraft where you can, those are the parts the truck's designed around.

__________________
(SOLD)The Cleanest 98 in the World - Project Log
Ranger Photo Contest #138 Winner - Patriotic Truck
----------------------------
2009 F150 FX4, lifted and stuff

I don't know what engine you've been working on but, I don't see how that will ever fit on my tuck engine, there's no room to turn it let alone install it around the filter.

__________________
Don't crash into a tree just to avoid a skunk!
2011 XLT 4x4 with RKE Keypad.

Works on just about every car I've ever worked on, minus the 2.0 split ports. You can't get a full turn, you get about 20* per crank. Takes all of 10 seconds after hand tightening it.Been doing oil changes since I was 14, never had a problem with them.

Mine's a 4.0 too.

__________________
(SOLD)The Cleanest 98 in the World - Project Log
Ranger Photo Contest #138 Winner - Patriotic Truck
----------------------------
2009 F150 FX4, lifted and stuff

that special tool is your hand and arm. tighten it by hand as tight as you can get it, and you wont have an issue taking it off by hand. Ive never had one slip or even leak.

This is the filter wrench I use, it works on every filter Ive changed.



BTW, these SOHC's are sensitive to the filter you use, I suggest sticking with the Motorcraft filter.

__________________

What do you mean "sensitive" to the filter you use?

__________________
George

2011 Ranger Sport 4 door SuperCab 4X4 Oxford White, 4.0 Auto Mods: XLT Carpet, Pin Stripes, Clear Corners, Extang Revolution Tonno, LineX, Pre Key mod, tailgate lightbar, cab lights, Muth heated signal mirrors
2008 Ranger Reg Cab 4X2 Redfire Vulcan Auto Mods:FX4 body color grille, Sport aluminum wheels, Extang Revolutioin Tonno, color matched bed liner, tailgate lightbar TRADED

The anti drain back valve in the filters is very important and no one else really does that as well as Motorcraft and Ive also had good luck with the mobil1 filters too. If I use any filter besides MC or Mobil1 the engine will rattle loudly at cold start for a second or so. The anti drain back valve keeps the oil from draining from the top of the engine to keep the valvetrain lubricated at cold starts.

__________________

Are you sure? I don't see how a filter mounted on these engines could drain.

Filters mount in such a way that lets oil drain from them usually incorporate an anti-drainback valve to hold oil in the filter after the engine (or other lubrication system) is shut down. This is done to avoid a delay in oil pressure buildup once the system is restarted; without an anti-drainback valve, pressurized oil would have to fill the filter before travelling onward to the engine's working parts. This situation can cause premature wear of moving parts due to initial lack of oil.

__________________
Don't crash into a tree just to avoid a skunk!
2011 XLT 4x4 with RKE Keypad.

Yes Im sure, read up on it. The filters for these have an anti drain back valve in them.

__________________

The first image shows the difference between the two flters and why the socket doesn't fit. The second image shows the tools that I use to do the oil change, and the last image show the location of the filter on my tuck. I don't see how a standard oild filter wrench could possible work.

Attached Images

	filtersplit.jpg (87.6 KB, 30 views)
	tools.jpg (95.6 KB, 32 views)
	oilfilterlocation.jpg (85.8 KB, 35 views)

__________________
Don't crash into a tree just to avoid a skunk!
2011 XLT 4x4 with RKE Keypad.

Please provide the source of your information. I'm not finding it.

__________________
Don't crash into a tree just to avoid a skunk!
2011 XLT 4x4 with RKE Keypad.

I have the same engine, oil filter is in the same location and Ive used a strap filter wrench on it no problem. It was a little tight but it worked. The tool I posted above works better though.

----------

I got it straight from the mouth of the Ford tech when I asked why my truck rattled at startup. He asked what filter I was using which was fram at the time and told me to try a MC filter, the start up rattle went away completely. Over the years Ive read several threads on a few different forums about the same topic, Im not the only one that had issues with other filters. The info is out there, I dont have links to them at this time, you need to do some searching on your own.

__________________