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  #1  
Old 02-21-2012, 01:07 PM
Ford Pickup
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 105
Default Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

I have 2 seperate, but related questions:

1. How do I change my fuel filter for my ranger? Is there is DIY anywhere?

2. My gas gauge doesnt work (well it does sometimes randomly), I assume this is due to a bad fuel sending unit. I am to understand you need to take the bed off to get to it? Any DIY's out there? Any other EASY way to fix my gas gauge not working?

Thanks!
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1993 Ford Ranger EXT cab, v6, 5 spd, 4x4
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  #2  
Old 02-21-2012, 01:27 PM
Infidel
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 1,771
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Not sure on the 93, but there's a how-to for 2001 and up.

Had to replace the fuel pump on my 02, and we took the bed off. Not too bad to do, and beats dropping the tank.
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02 Ranger XLT 4x4 Off Road, 4.0L SOHC, Automatic, 8.8 4.10 LS, Super-Cab, 3" Body Lift, 33x12.5x15 BFG All Terrains on 15x8 M/T Classic IIs, 5K 55w Heads, 5K 35w fogs, custom front skid plate, various other goodies.
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  #3  
Old 02-21-2012, 03:48 PM
Traacer
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 186
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Sending unit is going for sure if your gauge is reading sporatically. Taking the bed off is the easiest way to do it. It's a T55 for the bed bolts and a 55 gal drum of pb to break them loose. fuel filter is right under the frame rail by the driver's door. 1 bolt and the whole thing comes out. has 2 push in type plastic clamps, just use a regular head to pop them out put the new filter in and your all set to go.
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  #4  
Old 02-21-2012, 04:23 PM
Ford Ranger Owner
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 58
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Take the bed off, and if your you live in location were road salt is prominate you might as well as order some new bed bolts and c-nuts, or some 1/2" or 5/8" and a couple of washers and nuts.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2012, 05:47 AM
Ford Pickup
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 105
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Quote:
Originally Posted by traacer View Post
Sending unit is going for sure if your gauge is reading sporatically. Taking the bed off is the easiest way to do it. It's a T55 for the bed bolts and a 55 gal drum of pb to break them loose. fuel filter is right under the frame rail by the driver's door. 1 bolt and the whole thing comes out. has 2 push in type plastic clamps, just use a regular head to pop them out put the new filter in and your all set to go.
are there any websites that break down the parts with part numbers and a diagram?

I know there is a great website for my car (realoem.com) but trying to find something similiar for ford's. Just so I kind of know whats going on there before I start ripping things apart... I wouldn't considier myself a mechanic by any means, but have mechanical skills and a lot of common sense.
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2012, 04:42 PM
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 11
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

I just pulled my bed today (94 xlt 2wd 2.3) I will try and post some pics tommorow. The main reason I pulled the bed is to check my fuel sending unit, im hoping its just a bad connection since the cheapest I can get them around here is about $100.00. Anyway my filler neck is cracked and will need to be replaced as well. So wish me luck and I will try and post some pics of my adventure tommorow.
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2012, 03:08 PM
Learning to use the forums
 
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Posts: 11
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Ok got a little bit of work done on the ranger today and I got a few pics for everyone. The only specialized tool I needed was a T55 socket to remove the bolts from the bed of the truck. If you hit all the bolts with PB Blaster, Deep Creep or any other penetrant a few days before and a few times a day you will make this a lot easier. First thing is to unplug the taillights under the bumper before you pull the bed. This is just a quick disconnect that you need to pull apart.

There are 2 ways to work with the bed, either still on or completly off (self explanatory) to do this with the bed still on, you will leave the 2 bolts by the bumper still in, but as loose as possible without them coming out. Then grab a floor jack and jack up the front of the bed from underneath till you have enough room to work (dont forget to support the bed so that it wont fall on you). I chose to remove the bed, they are very light and me and my 17yr old son were able to lift it with very little difficulty. We did prop the front of the bed on the rear bumper so I could get a good look under it and hose it down real well.


Ok this is what we ended up with and as you can see with the bed off you can get a real good look at everything under there and check for any problems or things that can turn into problems down the road.


So go grab your garden hose or your shopvac and clean all the dirt and crap off the top of your fuel tank and the sending unit (Be careful not to get water in your tank if your fuel filler hose is cracked) you dont want any of the dirt falling into the tank when you pull the fuel sending unit. While your at it give everything else a quick clean while you have the bed off, especially spots you cant hit with the bed on. This is what you should be looking at now.


Now is a good time to check your filler hose to see if it is cracked. I pulled mine and covered the opening with a plastic lunchbag and a rubberband till the new one arrives in the mail.


There are 2 hoses and 1 electrical connection you will need to disconnect (remove the negetive cable from your battery first).
The hoses have clips that are easy to remove by pinching them a little and pushing them out of the connector (the new sending unit should come with new clips). The electrical connector has 3 tabs you will need to lift so you can lift it up out of its socket. Once the hoses and wire connector are out of the way, you can tap the white ring counter clockwise with a screwdriver and small hammer to remove it.


Here is the sending unit out, notice the darkspot on the float, that is fuel leaking out of it. Floats dont work well with holes in them
Good time to grab a flashlight and see if there is any dirt or gunk in your tank. (This works better with an almost empty tank)


New unit installed, battery hooked up and everything works. (notice bag over hole for fill tube so no debris or water get in) New units install in the same position as the old one, there is a tab on the bottom that fits into the notch on the inner lip and dont forget the rubbber o-ring gasket.


So now you can either put the bed back on or do a little PM while it is off. I changed my shocks, cleaned up the frame and threw a coat of paint on it. Checked the brake lines and put a little oil on the emergency brake cable connections and cable where it slides into its tubing. Going to clean up some sloppy electrical work over the weekend since it will be raining tommorow. I will throw a quick pick up when i put the bed back on.

Need to fix this, Emergency brake cable rubbing on shock


Fixxed


Some electrical that need to be cleaned up I dont like squeeze coonectors, I will solder and shrinktube these.


So for now it sits in the drivway with the bed off till the weekend or till the fill tube arrives.
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1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3, 2wd
1991 Ford F150 5.8 2wd
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  #8  
Old 02-24-2012, 08:31 AM
Ford Pickup
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 105
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Wow, awesome writeup!! Thanks for that. Someone on here needs to make your post a sticky on changing the sending unit and how to remove the bed.

were you leaking gas at all from the cracked filler hose?

I more than likely will do exactly what you did as far as changing those items and cleaning things up...

what type of paint did you use on the frame? Did you wirebrush or anything or did you just paint over a clean surface?

What suspension type damage should I be looking for? My rear end seems a little "loose" sometimes going over bumps.
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  #9  
Old 02-24-2012, 12:16 PM
Learning to use the forums
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 11
Default Re: Fuel filter and fuel sending unit?

Thank you

To answer your first question, yes but only when I filled up. The hard part was knowing how much gas was in the tank since the sending unit was bad, so I was only putting 10 or 15 dollars in at a time and keeping track of the mileage.

The 2 reasons I will change the line is 1. its dangerous in a big way. (someone could flick a cigarette butt under your truck while your in picking up groceries, or whatever) 2. in the state of NJ when you get your vehicle inspected they pressurize your tank for some reason, not sure if it is to check for leaks of if it is venting fumes.(maybe someone on the forum knows).

As to your second question I did use a hand held wirebrush over the frame but since there wasnt much in rust it went pretty quick. After a good cleaning I went and looked everything over, checked electrical for any areas it could be rubbing or get pinched. Checked my brake lines for any issues rubbing, pinched or cracked. Looked over the diferental housing for any leaks or anything else that didnt look right.






After looking everything over I used a rust converter on the frame ( can be found at any automotive or home center) and after that set up I used a under coating paint to finish it off.

As to your rear being loose there are 2 main things to look at, shocks and shackle bushings. I would suggest taking it to a mechanic for the best answer tho. Im not a mechanic, just very mechanicly inclined and I also do as much research into what im going to do as possible.

Hope this helps
Don
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1997 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0 AWD
1994 Ford Ranger XLT 2.3, 2wd
1991 Ford F150 5.8 2wd

Last edited by dmaxnj; 02-24-2012 at 12:25 PM.
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