I have a 2003 4.0 FX4 manual tranny...

I just did all the chains and guides because mine was making a noise..
pulled the motor.. Had a friend with the timing kit that ford has for this engine.. all new stuff.. then the new tension on the passenger side did not engage... we think it skipped some teeth on that side.. after we got it all back together... instead of the front making noise now it was the back after the rebuild..

is this an interference engine? Im shitting bricks here.. Then when trying to time it again the reverse threaded cam bolt on the back broke... so we pulled the cam out. the bolt was not over tightened... it shut sheared off... we were able to get the remnant of the bolt out becasue it was not torqued in there.. it just broke..

so now I have another issue.. when we pulled the cam out.. there is this little piece of the cam that fell off the back... it has grooves or something in it... its where the bolt goes in... does this go back on? do I need a new cam? do I need anew head?

are the cam bolts torque to yield? if so, I need to pull the one off the other side and replace it too...

WTF is up with this motor...

HELP..

Wait for Bob to chime in.. he is a god amongst us ranger folk.

Or John, he is another of the elite.

__________________
2001 Ford Ranger Supercab (4dr), Oxford White, 4.0 Sohc, 4x4, Manual trans (hurst equipped), 4:10's, 3" body lift.

I broke that bolt on my 04. I didn't know it was left handed threads...lol Anyway I just replaced the bolt. It didn't hurt the head or cam. I have been driving it for months now...see avatar... Anyway yes it is an interference motor and caution needs to be taken when turning it by hand. What ever piece you dropped will have to be removed one way or another. The only thing I can think of you could drop is the washer of the bolt. The reason the timing jumped is because of the tensioner. You can check out my sport trac thread for a little info and pics...

__________________
22 and counting...

No.. we started it and the cam jumped and the head moved 45 degrees apart from the block... however when we retimed it.. i still have compression in all the cylinders...

The bolt broke on the back that holds the cam in place when we were timing it again...

nothing fell off but the last inch of the cam.. (The side with the cam bolt and cam sprocket) pops out.. and it has little teeth I put it back in.

I dont know if my head is junk now... I will post pics in a moment..

----------





Are these bolts torque to yield?

I didn't know that piece came off of the cam. I don't understand what you mean by the head moved 45 degrees off the block?

__________________
22 and counting...

I'm kind of confused on this as well. Sounds almost like you're running a motor with no fasteners in it...

I'm not sure if those particular bolts are torque to yield, but I know the head bolts are, so if you do end up taking them off you'll need to replace the bolts as well.

__________________

jw whats an interfaerance motor mean?

it means if your timing chain ever breaks you are F'D! so yea its when an engine doesn't have enough space between the valve and the piston if timing was ever "off" so basically if the timing chain snaps, the engine will be completely out of sync resulting in the valves slamming into the piston on an upward motion.

__________________

ah sounds like a major headeach. thats why im rebuilding my motor this coming year

All done... back together... had 2 bent valves.. had them replaced and reseated... new head gasket, new head bolts, new cam..

now i have tapping lifters on the same side as the issue... RRRRRRRR... anybody know a good additive that will make the lifters behave?

The engine treatment RESTORE seems to work for that (at least it did in mine).

__________________

slick 50 FTW

__________________
1998 ranger extended cab, 2wd, 4.0 ohv, 5 speed, sony xploid 52 4 way watt radio, 2 pair of pioneer 240 watt speakers, Cobra 29 LX LCD CB radio pushing 100 watts, k&n air filter, 15 inch exploder wheels, dual exhaust with 4 inch stainless tips, 2 12 inch subs with a 1000 watt amp just for the hell of it!

new project: dirt track modified racing at the local saturday night track.

Not to be a pain in the ass here, but if you have a 2003 4.0, that is an OHC engine and does not have lifters. The only thing that could be making noise is the rocker arms or the valve springs.

__________________
2004 F-150 FX4 Supercab, Dark Shadow Grey, 5.4 liter Triton V8, Flowmaster Cat Back exhaust, K&N Drop-in, Intake "Gotts" Mod, Edge Programmer, 2.5" Level, Front tow hooks, 33" Falken Rocky Mountain ATS
Future mods: CB Radio, Dual band Ham Radio

The older I get the more I realize it is worthless to worry about tomorrow when you are living today. Love your family and friends, live like there is no tomorrow.

Judging by your avatar, your truck is pre 94, which means your 4.0 is of the Over-Head Valve design, which is pretty different from the Single Over-Head Cam design being discussed in this thread. I do not believe that the OHV 4.0s are interference engines.

Not to show my ignorance, but I dont think ohc engine have rocker arms either.
The Toyota 4.7 I rebuilt last year was dohc and it went cam->cap->top of valve stem.

__________________
2000 XLT 4x4, 4dr ext cab, 4.0L OHV, 4.10 LSD
265/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs
Mountaineer seats, Expo OHC
2003 EDGE front clip conversion
133rwhp/192rwtq-->6-28-11

1969 Mercury Cougar
351W, FMX, 3:1 open diff in a Ford 9"
Undergoing restoration