Hmm, do you realize that K&N does not use rubber?
It is extruded thermoformed polythylene. . . . .
A hybrid of PVC and plastic. . . Not rubber. . .
Aluminum does the trick of reflecting well enough.
It is not necessary to refrigerate the air only keep it cooler/denser, the the sparsed 2-300deg, engine temps. Just keeping the air temp sub 100degrees is sufficient.

You would have to know a little about thermodynamic properties.
Redneck test, go buy a nice little bake at home pizza, preheat to recommended temp. prolly round 275deg cook recommended time then grab the foil with your hands and remove the pizza(do not touch the pizza). This mindblowing experiment will give you a small taste of thermodynamics. Even though the aluminum gets warm it does not "transfer" the heat to the air.

(end lesson)

Next Neigh Sayer???

P.S.

This is true, if the wrap is used on cast headers it can really screw up ones engine, the thick cast iron retains alot of heat but it dissipates it well enough if you tape them they are extremely prone to cracking especially at the joints and they can also cause head damage. typically Mrs. Daisy would not experience too much of a problem but someone who runs the motor hard with out "cycling" it will run into this 99% of the time, performance headers are wrapped for a couple of reasons, but those who do it know the care practices necessary formaintaining them when taped. Neigh sayers talk to your local speedshop before poor noobs screw up their only vehicle.

Merry Christmas!
Oh and not to offend the masses who I am not directly talking too, Happy "_ _ _ _ _ _" to you!

__________________
Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

Nitrous Oxide is just a chemical. Basically it converts the part of air that is not oxygen into oxygen so the 78~% of air that is wasted can be actually burned like it is oxygen (not exactly but basically). Nothing will detonate if you increase the recipe right. If you bake a cake, you need 1 pound of batter with 2 eggs. If you want to bake 5 cakes you will need 5 pounds of batter with 10 eggs. (keep the formula the same). Detonation happens because people use nitrous oxide with a stock fuel system on stock maps and things get lean. Lean means detonation. Also - timing can cause detonation, and the ignition map needs to be adjusted too. Heat can break pistons, but detonation does it much much faster. Nitrous oxide greatly increases the compression pressure, so forged pistons and bottom end goodies are recommended. I've built a few nitrous subarus and the fuel system is always the first thing concentrated on, along with alot of logging knock, AFR, Timing and EGT's: The maps need to be adjusted until they are a masterpiece.

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Why don't you test your theory and simply try both intakes and log with a live obd2 scanner. They are cheap and many of them come with a tactrix cable.

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

OEM cast manifolds are designed to keep the exhaust as hot as physically possible in order to increase catalyst efficiency. You can make any engine pass emissions easier feeding the catalyst hot exhaust. Catalysts decrease efficiency exponentially with decreasing temperature.

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Even if it provides a denser-colder charge your getting a fraction of the gain because you haven't leaned the map out or increased any timing. Why waste your money on an intake without adjusting the maps. I don't understand. If you don't believe me, ask yourself "does my truck perform noticeably different in the summer compared to winter?" There is a monstrous difference in winter/summer AIT's. (again you can log if you don't believe me).

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J7 covered the NOS portion purdy well, but the turbo is another whole demon.
Turbo C/R is very Different from N/A C/R, Noob's are silly people that hear a little bit of something that sounds cool and run with it.
If you Turbo a stock N/A motor you willlllllll have to fight Detonation all the way. Of course mapping can help a little, but if you try and run it you will decimate the motor, like all the odd glory stories you hear about. Aside from the preferred upgrades like bearings, pins, rings, connectors, and pistons, you have to make sure you get the right C/R. Have fun.

__________________
Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

Aluminum has a very high coefficient of heat transfer. That's why I swapped my stock Aluminum and Rubber intercooler pipes with stainless steel ones.

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I beg to differ - a good tune with the right fuel system makes a real difference. Take my 300+whp Rx-8 for example (stock N/A was 175whp). Stock apex seals also, which are way easier to break than any piston engine. I've put turbo's on everything with the exclusion of farm tractors for years. C/R is proportional too cylinder pressure which is a function of boost and compressor flow. Retarded timing is a must, enrichment is a must. I'm not talking about "mapping a little" - I mean a total overhaul. I increase timing/decrease fuel before boost, log, and then take it up a few more rpms. It takes me 20-30 dyno pulls sometimes to make the maps perfect so I've got a perfectly smooth torque curve without knock.

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So you are saying that you degrade your tuning to compensate for a roughly 2.5-1 ratio overcompression, without tattering the valvetrain to hell?

__________________
Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

No - retarding the timing from boost-to redline, and adding fuel. I creep as much back as I can without sacrificing knock. The boost/timing/fuel triangle is a triple edged sword, but boost/timing/fuel are MUCH easier to change than piston compression ratio. That's why I use a mustang dyno for tuning, the results are much easier to see.

Many "noobs" come to me and say "hey set up my car to run 15/20/25/30 psi man" - I then politely explain why it is a dumb idea to run say 23 psi instead of 21 psi when you only gain 3hp from doing so. Remember turbo power is about FLOW rates, not boost. A 6262 or a 3076 makes a bit different flow given the same boost. Compressor maps and laptop logs are my best friends.

Another reason why I am addicted to meth.

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

Hmm, you are running pump I presume. I have only built to run Blue and my understanding is that no matter the mapping you would get detonation running a racing fuel. I never played with the mapping other Mopar nuts custom mapped our cars(4sec0-60 on dodge Forums) but we always built our motors. It wasn't too much to mess with on my Daytona's, but we would run 30lbs of boost on the T2 motors, with no problems and my T3's usually ran 16-24lbs.(efficiency is everything on these), but they were DOHC and breathed alot better. Am I to understand that with proper tuning that my Scion Xb could be turbo'd as stock running pump fuel? (Odd I know but I love the little indestructible bugger!)

__________________
Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come

I have 14 individual mapsets for anything from 87-115, E85, C16 and Meth.

Greddy makes a kit for that exact setup.

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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

So, JP7, you gonna tune my truck for me when I get the turbo on it? I'm not looking for more than around 10psi, which from my research should be well within the abilities of the stock bottom end and 9.85 CR. Heck, on the Focuses they are running 12 psi on stock d-tech motors and laying ~260hp at the wheels. I'd be content with anywhere near that.

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I'll tune anything I have the software for. Mostly Open-ECU cars (Subaru and Mitsubishi). I don't usually work on domestics but I do the occasional AEM or Motec car.

__________________
Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

Last night I raced the same model of ford cars that the cops usually use and he kept up with me in first ger (tires were spinning) till I got into 2nd. I own a 91 Ranger rwd
BTW.. I heard you can pull a supercharger off of some older car and put it on this model. is that true? if so what car is it?