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  #31  
Old 11-19-2009, 09:07 AM
big green big green is offline
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did the airbox mod and tightened the throttle cable
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1999 ranger 4x4 supercab, 4.0L
-3 inch PA body lift
-16 inch pro comp alloys
-33x11.50 BFG all terrain
-Go Rihno roll bar with 4 KC Daylighter lights
-weston bull bar
-dual exhaust,
-air box mod, tightend throttle cable.
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  #32  
Old 11-19-2009, 11:43 PM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big green View Post
just wondered if there was any way to get some more power out of my 4.0L, driving the other day and my buddies 1980-somthing caravan smoked me could not catch him, till i got a run at him, And i never heard the end of it...
250 shot.
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Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
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  #33  
Old 11-20-2009, 08:27 PM
oldfordisbetter oldfordisbetter is offline
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v8 swap = racer truck stomping any minivan is sight
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1994 ford ranger supercab 4.0 4wd 5spd
Rebuilt 4.0 ohv
Airbox mod w/k&n filter
Pacesetter headers
Magna flow cat
2.25" exaust
Flowmaster 40 dumped
Hurst shifter
Ford racing floormats, steering wheel cover
Pioneer deh2900mp HU
Kenwood 6 by 8's
Visionik 10" sub 300 watt amp
Thumb tacks to hold up headliner
Painted bumpers, grille, wipers, tailgate & door handles Matte black
Painted flag wheels gloss black
235/45/15 BFG rugged trails
Lebra soft roll up tounno cover
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  #34  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:12 PM
Jp7 Jp7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loganthegreat1 View Post
my first suggestion is a K&N cold air intake, it'll improve your gas mileage and give you a few more horsepower.....
No and No..
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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

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Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
I'm dying to see this at night. Someone go tell the sun to give up already.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beef08 View Post
Your the man, you bring our dreams to a reality within the lighting spectrum
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Originally Posted by BCobe View Post
Jp7 you always do AMAZING work! Hats off to you sir
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People so often confuse "hating" with "knowing better".
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  #35  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:13 PM
Jp7 Jp7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cazgt04 View Post
Bigger gear ratios dont make your trucks more powerful, just makes them work harder to be a little faster... There are cheaper ways to get that extra zazz. Throttle body spacer, CAI, headers, exhaust, low volume methanol injection kits. All but exhaust are under $300.

I bet you have an aftermarket muffler-bearing too? I've got a bridge for sale, it will make your truck faster!
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Looking for a professional retrofitter to add HIDs or LEDs to your Ranger? PM me if your looking to have work done, and have cash to spend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
I'm dying to see this at night. Someone go tell the sun to give up already.
Quote:
Originally Posted by beef08 View Post
Your the man, you bring our dreams to a reality within the lighting spectrum
Quote:
Originally Posted by BCobe View Post
Jp7 you always do AMAZING work! Hats off to you sir
Quote:
Originally Posted by FireRanger View Post
People so often confuse "hating" with "knowing better".
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  #36  
Old 12-20-2009, 08:32 PM
SmokeyMcPot420 SmokeyMcPot420 is offline
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yeah and a after market kaniphalin pin. dont forget to hingle jam your johnson rod
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1998 Ford Ranger

147,000 on chassis, 50,000 on engine.
3.0 v6 5 speed 4x4...4x4 don't work lol

What I hope to do- Paint wheels, new head unit, exhaust, fix four wheel drive.
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  #37  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:36 PM
Turn&Burn Turn&Burn is offline
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i am with jp7 cold air intakes are for looks not performance. your stock intake already gets cold air.

now on performance would any one know if a very low detonation nos be good for the engine to help keep it cool cause i know a friend who did this to his conquest and it did a lot for it. but he is also running a turbo. also can you put a turbo or a super charger on the 3.0L and it be safe with stock pistons or would you burn it up???
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  #38  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:41 PM
Turn&Burn Turn&Burn is offline
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also you want your cat, it helps the engine. you need back pressure (to a degree).
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  #39  
Old 12-20-2009, 10:16 PM
smakes smakes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn&Burn View Post
i am with jp7 cold air intakes are for looks not performance. your stock intake already gets cold air.
if you think about, these "cold air intakes" are actually worse than the stock airbox, sure that shiney tube and cone filter look cool. but the stock airbox pulls air from the fenderwell, those cone filters pull air from all around, including hot air coming off the engine. if you want a truly cold air intake, do a ram air scoop below your bumper lol
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  #40  
Old 12-20-2009, 11:01 PM
Turn&Burn Turn&Burn is offline
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also those metal tubes heat up under the hood. the best in my opinion is to do a raised hood then to pull it from the windshield area that is where a lot of true dead cold air sits
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not always the brightest tool in the box. but will always look for help when need be....
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  #41  
Old 12-21-2009, 12:56 AM
02'4.04x4 02'4.04x4 is offline
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Umm, seems the cold air things is still hit or miss for some. I'll just say the aluminum does not conduct or transfer as much heat as rubber. Another things is the reduced velocity designed to reduce noise in the system and stabilize air flow for a more controlled enviroment isn't a bad thing to get away from with the stock rubber.

And for the love of God is some smart @$$ tells me he does not understand what I mean by rubber, let him know he should have been a stain. ha ha
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Current Mods
White gauges and Temp Cntrl, OHCw/Buggman LED mod,
Bosch +4, Accel Coil Pack, MSD6AL, Walbro, HiFlo Fuel filter,
Custom Ram Air, K&N, Ported / Matched intake, JBA 9mm wires,
Tweeked FPR, EBC 6k's, DynoMax-S CatBack, Jet-Chip, Reflex shocks,
New Anvil Mounts, Timbren's, Optima Yellow, DB 220A Alt. w/4g. jumper,
Western snow plow, More2Come
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  #42  
Old 12-21-2009, 07:59 AM
Turn&Burn Turn&Burn is offline
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you do realize that the "rubber" k&N air intake is high temp resistant and is better than the aluminum. it is a heat resistant polymer. also aluminum likes to heat up and they are good at it.
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  #43  
Old 12-21-2009, 08:58 AM
richarddhoward richarddhoward is offline
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The K&N kits use a dam to block heat from your engine so that they are pulling cold air from the same spot your restrictive stock intake is. And the aluminum is horrible, get the plastic one. But heat is inevitable. You really want to get rid of heat then cover your exhaust in header wrap so it holds heat in better and makes your cat run better.
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97 Ranger - 4.0 V6 auto, 4wd, 31x10.5x15s Wild Country XTX Sport All Terrains, Warn locking hubs, Pioneer deck with iPod attachment, Snugtop Topper, K&N filter, scan gauge II, Hella 500 Lights, More parts coming, waiting for the paycheck to get bigger!

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  #44  
Old 12-21-2009, 09:17 AM
Johnbaum13 Johnbaum13 is offline
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^^^using header wrap on a street driven motor will cause the headers to get too hot and crack. This is especially true with stock cast iron manifolds.
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  #45  
Old 12-21-2009, 09:18 AM
richarddhoward richarddhoward is offline
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Never had problems on the other cars I did it on. I haven't done it to my Ranger. I'm just given my experience.
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97 Ranger - 4.0 V6 auto, 4wd, 31x10.5x15s Wild Country XTX Sport All Terrains, Warn locking hubs, Pioneer deck with iPod attachment, Snugtop Topper, K&N filter, scan gauge II, Hella 500 Lights, More parts coming, waiting for the paycheck to get bigger!

Truck built in loving memory of Norm Howard
Outcast Racing
PNW Crew!!!
Afterhours Clan!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaron_ariens View Post
I think Henry just shit himself
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radness View Post
Its kind of like that carnival game "Whack A Mole" but with guns! Haha
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