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  #1  
Old 06-17-2011, 01:07 PM
02BlueRanger 02BlueRanger is offline
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Default Another Odd Starting issue.

So when I go to start the ranger if i try to turn it over right when i get it it takes 10-20 seconds of it shaking the whole truck to start, however (this is the weird part) If i get in, turn the key to run 3-4 times then turn it all the way it starts right up. Its done this the entire life of the truck and ive had the fuel filter replaced everything is hooked up fine etc...
/
fuel pump maybe? any way of checking?
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  #2  
Old 06-19-2011, 03:05 PM
lvbluesboy lvbluesboy is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

Hmmmmm, kind of wondering if my truck would do the same thing. I'll think I will try out your trick and see if it works on mine. I have the Starting Issue, Kind of Weird thread.

I am still wondering if this is coil related. Did you try the trick with the MAF sensor? It should be right in the tunnel of your air inlet. Unplug it as fordranger4X4 said to do and see if your truck starts right up. Might be the MAF in your case or not. Interesting. Are you getting the check engine light? If so, any codes? I suspect not.

If I figure something out on mine, maybe it will be useful for you also. I already know that if I take it into the dealer and it is not showing any engine codes, they will likely be lost. Can't seem to do much without the diagnostic computer.

Hopefully, we will both end up with answers.
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:07 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

sounds like the check valve is going bad...a bad check valve will allow the fuel pressure to bleed off when the truck is parked which will casue the extended cranking time...by cycling the key you are building the fuel pressure up...my car did the exact same thing
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:19 PM
lvbluesboy lvbluesboy is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

Hey djfillmn,

You may have something there. I just came in from the garage where I tried out the turn the key to "run" test.

It worked! I also found that if I turned the key to "run", let it stay there for just a few seconds, the truck starts right up. Of course turning it to "run" several times in a row did the same thing.

Please explain the check valve if you would. Fuel check valve?

Maybe this will help 02BlueRanger, me and anyone else with this issue.
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:32 PM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

its a fuel pressure check valve...it keeps fuel pressure built up so you dont have to crank it for an extended period of time to start it...but if its bad/going bad it will let the pressure bleed off and then there isnt enough pressure for the truck to start right away
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traded-2007 F150 XLT Supercab 5.4
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Quote:
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These threads make me feel better about myself....
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Welcome to the internet, if this is your first visit to it I suggest you stock up on a lot of preparation h cause you gonna be butt hurt a lot
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:50 PM
lvbluesboy lvbluesboy is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

Thanks. I get that.

I don't see any listing for a fuel pressure check valve in the parts diagrams on my local Ford dealer site nor a listing by that name on the local auto parts stores sites.

Is it called something else? For instance, Ford doesn't call the idle air control sensor an idle air control sensor. Weird I know, but what else is new.

Looked in my Chilton's too. No help there.

So, did a search on the web and it seems that the check valve is probably attached to and is part of the fuel pump assembly. It does make sense and if that is the case, replacement of the fuel pump would be required. Don't know if I want to do that just yet. The whole lack of fuel pressure seems to make sense however.

Last edited by lvbluesboy; 06-19-2011 at 04:02 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 06-26-2011, 05:25 PM
02BlueRanger 02BlueRanger is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

can you replace this by yourself or should i just run it to my mechanic
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Painted Interior | Painted exterior trim and black chrome
Black Leather Racing Seats | Black Carpet
Dual Headunit | Pioneer Speakers 180 W ea.
ATX 16x8 wheels on 30" BFG | 5% rear tint 20% front | Headlight Mod | 8K HIDS
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Old 06-27-2011, 04:10 AM
djfllmn djfllmn is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

i think the check valve is part of the fuel pump...and to replace that you have to either drop thje tank or pull the bed off
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2016 F150 Supercrew XLT 5.0
1968 Ford Thunderbird Tudor 429 Thunderjet V8

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traded-2007 F150 XLT Supercab 5.4
Sold:03 Sonic Blue FX4 Steppie 4.0SOHC 5spd
ranger free since 6/15/2012

Quote:
Originally Posted by Logan03CO View Post
These threads make me feel better about myself....
Quote:
Originally Posted by guell View Post
Welcome to the internet, if this is your first visit to it I suggest you stock up on a lot of preparation h cause you gonna be butt hurt a lot
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  #9  
Old 06-27-2011, 09:34 AM
02BlueRanger 02BlueRanger is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

Yeah I did some research and that's what it looks like, which would be easier? The pull of the bed or stop the tank?
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2002 Wedgwood Blue 4x4 |CAI, Dual Gibson Exhaust, Re-tuned | Exterior/Interior LED
Painted Interior | Painted exterior trim and black chrome
Black Leather Racing Seats | Black Carpet
Dual Headunit | Pioneer Speakers 180 W ea.
ATX 16x8 wheels on 30" BFG | 5% rear tint 20% front | Headlight Mod | 8K HIDS
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  #10  
Old 06-27-2011, 10:04 AM
modelageek modelageek is offline
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Default Re: Another Odd Starting issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlueRanger View Post
Yeah I did some research and that's what it looks like, which would be easier? The pull of the bed or stop the tank?
the check valve is part of the fuel pump assembly. I would pull the bed if you were swapping the pump. for a DIYer it is the best. I strongly suggest you try some Techron in the fuel tank first. Do you or did you by any chance use Shell gas? I will post a write up.........and what do you mean it has done this it's entire life? it could not have done it since it was new?.....

----------

In many cases Removing the Bed Helps in the aiding of repairs. ie. Fuel pump replacement, hanger and shackle replacement, etc

1)the fuel cap filler is held on with 3 bolts 7mm?

2)there is an electrical disconnect at the bumper for the taillights.

3)The bed is held on with 6 torx 55 bolts. 2 of the bolts closest to the cab are longer than the other 4. I recommend buying 2 torx 55 sockets in case one breaks. 4 or 5 of the bolts can be accessed from underneath and should be hit with a rust penetrator. I recommend at least one of the following, impact wrench, 1/2 ratchet with a pipe or a 1/2 breaker bar. it takes some muscle to remove the bolts.

4)The bed can be slid down for a fuel pump replacement or removed by 2 Men or one man and a cherry picker.

5) In the event you are removing the bed for a fuel pump replacement. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE NEG BATTERY TERMINAL.

6) You should change your fuel filter while the bed is off. A special tool is required. 5/16 FF performance tool W83130 or equivalent. hit the lines with pb blaster first.

7) I replaced my bolts with regular hex bolts. Ford wanted $16 a bolt. I ordered my online at the the boltdepot.com for less than $3 each. the 2 cloest to the cab are 12m x 1.75 x 120mm and the other 4 are 12m x 1.75 x 100mm. I got the storngest grade they had 10.9=for automotive use

8) I changed the rear hangers and shackles on my rear leaf springs. I used Dorman 722-010 and 722-001. all 4 pieces were less than $100. They come in a kit with everything you need, bolts etc. I used a grinder to grind the heads of the bolts off. this only took about 10 minutes a hanger. I had a dewault grinder and bought 2 metal grinding wheels at the home depot. I only used 1 they were about $3. I had a hard time getting the bushing out of the eye of the spring. I finally decided to use my drill and a good 1/4 bit. I drilled the rubber out that was in the middle of the bushing. the rest just slide out. I greased up the new bushing and temporarily put the bolt in and hammered it in the eye. You don't want to torque the bolts that attach the spring to the shackle until the truck is on the ground.
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