yah i seen the prices as well, advanced has em for bout 299. there not too bad to change , my father helped me change one on the 99 ranger i used to have. but now lately it has been starting right up, so we'll see

Maybe yours fixed itself!?! Probably no such luck, but I am glad to hear it is starting. Mine does too, just have to hit the key a few times.

I don't want to take it into the dealer at this point. Since there are no issues according to the computer, it would likely cost a pile of money and possibly go nowhere.

I work with a guy who owns a new Challenger. Hemi and all. He was driving down the road a few days ago and suddenly the car lost power. It just seemed to have lost about 40% of its juice.

No check engine light, no codes. A trip to the dealer at first resulted in nothing. They were baffled with no info from the ECM. Finally, a mechanic that had heard of the problem on another vehicle suggested changing a sensor related to the transmission (his is a stick, not an automatic) and it fixed the problem. Replaced the sensor, all the power was back.

It's that kind of unusual stuff that makes me leary of taking it into the dealer at this time, but I may if the starting issue gets worse.

Just seems like someone on the forum would have a better answer. Here's hoping!

New to the forum here and looking for info on this topic. Found this recent thread. Not sure if there has been any further developments from you guys, but I've been having the same problem with my 2002 4.0. Mine cranks strong but is slow to fire. I've also tried waiting a few seconds after turning the key on to let the pump do its thing, but it makes no difference. Mine does it most of the time with the occasional normal start. Engine temp does not seem to matter. No codes No lights either.

This just started happening around the same time my check engine light came for something else. It threw codes for lean mix on both engine banks and I managed to find a cracked elbow fitting on a vacuum line, which cleared the fault. Prior to that though I changed my fuel filter to see if that was causing the problem (165k miles on the original unit). That wasn't the problem. Problem now is I can remember if the slow starting started before or after I changed the filter, so I suspect that as a possible culprit. Seems unlikely though.

I've been reading about a whole bunch of things that could cause this problem, including the MAF sensor, which I had also inspected and cleaned when diagnosing the lean condition. I used the glorified & overly expensive contact cleaner that re-name as MAF cleaner spray. Looked spotless but I cleaned it anyway. Maybe I shouldn't.

Anyway should I have my fuel pressure tested and eliminate the pump or should I tear back into the connections on everything (MAF, IAC, etc.) I had apart looking for the vacuum leak and make sure I'm not having just a bad connection.

Thanks. Great forum.

I've also tried waiting a few seconds after turning the key on to let the pump do its thing, You need to turn the key on -off-on -off as the pump only runs for 2 seconds at a time if it does not receive as signal from the computer that the engine is running. It a few times to get enough pressure, 50-70 psi. I had the same problem on my 01 edge. Changing the pump is easiest if you remove the bed ,only 6 bolts and tail light wire connecter. I got my pump at autozone.$185.00.

turn key on, wait 8-10 seconds for sensors to do their job and provide feedback to cpu, then it should start right up.

Glad to see there are still responses coming in on this thread. I spotted yet another new starting issue post which sounds way to similiar to be coincidence.

I have found that the 3 or 4 clicks to "on" for a few seconds seems to work the best. Truck always starts, but this is really annoying.

I may bite the bullet and go for the fuel pump change. If so, I will post and let everyone know if that did the trick. Just don't know if I want to tackle that myself (removing the bed seems like a pain). ALLDATADIY shows that a special tool is needed for pump removal. Some kind of a locking ring setup and shows about a 2 hour estimate, but I don't know if that includes taking the bed off.

Seems like putting it off will just cause more wear on the starter.

If any of you have done the "remove the bed" thing, do you need to take it completely off or just move it back some to clear access to the fuel pump?

It also seems like this is a pretty common problem.

Does it only act up if it has set overnight or all day while you are at work, or does it act up every time you try and start it?

I'm not really familiar with the 4.0, but on other engines a faulty fuel pressure regulator can cause issues like you described. They are usually on the fuel rail. Just a thought.

__________________
2000 XLT Extended cab 4x2 3.0
No real mods, just some bodywork and paint so far

Hey dads truck!

This happens when the truck has sat for a little while. For sure if it has sat all day at work or overnight, but it seems like if it has sat for over 20 to 30 minutes, it does the same thing.

If it go into a store say, and come back out relatively quickly, it fires right up first time.

Like I said, Kind of Weird, but any thoughts are welcome!

Both my wifes expo and my truck have shown every symptom that yours has. I ended up getting a PM from a member on here, (whom I cannot remember as I deleted the PM), but he told me that I more than likely had a very small piece of something in one or more injectors that was causing it to leak enough gas into the cylinder to reduce the fuel rail pressure enough to cause the delay in starting.

If priming the fuel pump allows you to start the truck like it should start, just do that 2 or 3 times before you start it if it has sat for a while until you can get some fuel injector cleaner thru it again. But don't just run 1 can of cleaner thru the tank, put a minimum of 2 or 3 containers of cleaner in the tank at once and as you run that thru the truck you should see an improvement.

Run thru the tank with the injector cleaner in it and put another container or 2 of FI cleaner in with the next tank also just for good measure also.

The fuel injector cleaner is a hell of a lot cheaper that replacing the fuel pump, as you already know.

Hope this helps ya....

Try replacing the fuel pump relay before you go on to the more expensive items - located in the underhood power distribution box.

I had an intermittent "no start" situation that in many respects was similar to what you guys are experiencing.

Replacing that relay was a quick and relatively cheap fix - try that first, nothing to lose by it.

Hope you find a resolution.

__________________
2003 Supercab Flareside
4 liter V6
4x4 FX4 Level I
5 speed Auto
4.10 LS Rear

Thanks for the replies everyone. I am going to run some more injector cleaner through it as suggested. It certainly couldn't hurt and will also replace that relay.

Hey, if this experimentation works out, so much the better for all of us. The thing that bugs me the most was how this just seemed to start overnight, but if the computer can compensate for small variations until a certain point is reached, that would make sense.

Anyway, I will do the Techron thing and get a new relay and let everyone know what happens. You never know.

If I do look at replacing the pump, I have a little more wiring to unplug since my truck has the trailering option with the hitch and all.

Seems like there are quite a few of us with this issue. Just doesn't seem like it should be the pump on so many vehicles.

The "key on for several seconds before starting" works for me as well. I've not been doing that though so I can tell when it is acting up. It gave me problems when cold this morning and then again at lunch after it sat for about 3 hours. 1 hour at lunch and it started right up, so the fuel pressure leaking down does seem to make some sense. I guess the thing to do would be measure the pressure first thing in the morning and see if it is within spec.

I don't think it is the pump. Mine's too coincidental with other stuff and I'm associating the start of this problem for me with either the replacement of my fuel filter or the rooting around and disconnecting of stuff to find the vacuum leak on my pcv line. The clogged injector would make some sense if a bit of crud got into the line during the filter change out. I'm assuming there is nothing between the filter and the injector at that point? If it is a bit of something in there like a rusty bit I'm wondering if cleaner would have any affect at all. I'm guessing no.

As timing would have it I had just run a bottle of cleaner through the tank before changing the filter. 160k and 1st time I've ever used it. I suppose it's worth a shot again because this is annoying. My starter is also only a couple months old and it's aging quickly.

Finally, something a buddy told me today is that maybe I have changed the fuel delivery pattern with all the other work lately (and all the batt disconnects/reconnects). He suggested it may correct itself or it not may need to be rest via a code reader. He has OBD2 reader and will do this next week and a pressure test if I'm still having issues. I don't think it's going to fix itself. I will report back.

Well, I see the tale continues.

Seems like it might be a good idea to change the fuel filter even though it has only been about 10,000 miles. Changed it almost two years ago. I always use good gas and the motor is smooth as glass when it's running but who knows.

I don't have any codes showing on the scanner so the ECM doesn't think anything is haywire at this point, but the whole thing is kind of irritating.

So anyway, I am going to change out the filter and see what happens. Cheap enough and probably should be done anyway.

The older guy at the local auto parts emporium suggested that this type of problem was usually related to the fuel pressure regulator, but it seems the 4.0l Ranger doesn't have one. Back to the pump?

Too much fun!

Replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel filter yesterday. I will let everyone know if that makes any difference. Still running the Techron through it.

Also found out for sure that the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds when the key is put in the "run" position. It shuts off if motor start isn't initiated. So, the turn the key to the run position about 4 times will probably build up enough fuel pressure to bypass the low pressure issue and allow the motor to start and run.

BTW - there is a fuel pressure regulator/check valve. It is part of the pump assembly. So it goes.