Loud Pinging/rattleing noise when under heavy acceleration, hills... - Page 3

FireRanger · #31 05-14-2011, 05:38 AM

I'm thinking before tearing the whole engine down (which it may come down to anyway), he should start with things that are outside and easier first. 'Course that said, he's already done a lot of that already but it would be wise to give everything outside the block a good once over before you start ripping the whole thing apart and being out of service for a long time.

- Pull all the plugs and wires. Check each one for spark (ground the side against the block and have someone start the engine, you'll see it spark). Check each one for gap and condition. Check each wire for continuity and resistance. This problem screams ignition/timing so hit that with a fine tooth comb. Molest the whole system until you're sure there is nothing wrong.

- Check the fuel pressure with the engine running. It should be 35psi on your year ranger (they went to 65 PSI in later years, but I don't remember what that year was). If it is low, then there's your problem.

- Crankshaft Position Sensor? If this thing was f'd up, it would clearly make your timing go to shit. I know absolutely nothing about what is involved with replacing this thing so for all I know, you have to saw the engine in half to get to it. Anyone?

- Knock sensor? Seems unlikely but I suppose if this thing was fubar, it could make the computer alter the timing when not needed.

rcjwp · #32 05-14-2011, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

I'm thinking before tearing the whole engine down (which it may come down to anyway), he should start with things that are outside and easier first. 'Course that said, he's already done a lot of that already but it would be wise to give everything outside the block a good once over before you start ripping the whole thing apart and being out of service for a long time.

- Pull all the plugs and wires. Check each one for spark (ground the side against the block and have someone start the engine, you'll see it spark). Check each one for gap and condition. Check each wire for continuity and resistance. This problem screams ignition/timing so hit that with a fine tooth comb. Molest the whole system until you're sure there is nothing wrong.

- Check the fuel pressure with the engine running. It should be 35psi on your year ranger (they went to 65 PSI in later years, but I don't remember what that year was). If it is low, then there's your problem.

- Crankshaft Position Sensor? If this thing was f'd up, it would clearly make your timing go to shit. I know absolutely nothing about what is involved with replacing this thing so for all I know, you have to saw the engine in half to get to it. Anyone?

- Knock sensor? Seems unlikely but I suppose if this thing was fubar, it could make the computer alter the timing when not needed.

Great things too check. Thanks!

A little update on this... I went and bought the best of the best Chevron fuel system cleaner, and poured in TWO bottles into the tank before I filled up with PREMEUM 92 gas. On the 55 mile journey today after that fill up in the morning it seems as though it is starting to help. About a month ago I did the same thing but only used 1 bottle. It says to use with 12 gallons or less but I had 15 gallons in tank. So when I did that I think I deluted it too much. That could be why the first time that stuff didnt work for me.

BUT, it hasnt completely eraced symptoms. Ill give it a week and report back.

About the FUEL PRESSURE, I was getting 27PSI and so I thought my fuel pump was going. I bought a new fuel pump last saturday, and instaled it. Now im getting 32PSI. Is this still not sufficent enough? How can you bump that up???

FireRanger · #33 05-15-2011, 04:53 AM

32 is fine. Anyone familiar with the fuel pressure regulator on these things?

Don't put "premium" gas in it. That will actually make things worse. There's rarely anything premium about most "premium" fuels and the higher octane rating will hurt if anything at all.

What you're describing is way to severe for a bottle or two of techron to fix. I'll eat my words if it magically fix itself, but I don't foresee that happening. Something is physically wrong.

Badmotorfinger1 · #34 05-15-2011, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

Don't put "premium" gas in it. That will actually make things worse. There's rarely anything premium about most "premium" fuels and the higher octane rating will hurt if anything at all.

FireRanger,I don't wish to highjack this thread, but I'd really like to know why you think running a higher octane gas is harmful. In some circumstances it can be a waste of the extra cost, but harmful? How?

rcjwp, It doesn't surprise me that you're reporting improved results, but I believe this is a band aid on your issue. I suggest you really need to run some tests on your ignition system.

FireRanger · #35 05-15-2011, 10:58 AM

Because it's only for use in engines designed or modified to properly ignite and burn it (ie, higher compression). Putting it in an engine designed for 87 is going just make it ignite and burn improperly, in an engine that is already burning and igniting improperly to begin with.

rcjwp · #36 05-15-2011, 01:30 PM

I understand that what Im doing is probably just like using a band-aid, but I figured It wouldnt hurt and give it one last shot before I most likely have to tear the engine down...

Now a quick question on the gas, I bought the Shell gasoline which they advertise as being NITROGEN enriched. Which is better that or Chevron with TECHRON? Or are they about the same?

I did use the 92 octane gas, will 89 octane still be too high? Or just stick with 87 gas?

By friday or saturday I will have run Ignition tests on my truck, but untill then I will be busy.

Badmotorfinger1 · #37 05-15-2011, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FireRanger

Because it's only for use in engines designed or modified to properly ignite and burn it (ie, higher compression). Putting it in an engine designed for 87 is going just make it ignite and burn improperly, in an engine that is already burning and igniting improperly to begin with.

Not necessarily. Our engines are designed for a minimum of 87 octane, not a maximum. Running less than 87, you run the risk of improper detonation (knocking) due to volatility. Running higher octane rating will not increase performance, but certainly won't impede it as it has nothing to do with the energy content of fuel. Very simply stated, here's why:
The octane rating of fuel is simply a measure of it's tendency to burn in a controlled manner. The higher the rating, the more controlled burn.
If what you stated was true about running higher octane being harmful, wouldn't you think Ford would have a warning in the Owner's Manual? They don't. However, they do have a warning about running a fuel with less than 87 octane.

As for why our friend has seen some positive results in running 92 octane gas with Chevron's additive, I suspect either the higher octane is temporarily masking an ignition issue or the upper cylinder lubricant contained in the Chevron cleaner is masking a mechanical issue from the improper installation of the cylinder heads and related parts.

FireRanger · #38 05-15-2011, 05:26 PM

Sorry, when I said harm, I meant harm performance, not harm like physical damage.

Badmotorfinger1 · #39 05-15-2011, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcjwp

Now a quick question on the gas, I bought the Shell gasoline which they advertise as being NITROGEN enriched. Which is better that or Chevron with TECHRON? Or are they about the same?

Now a days, gas refined by Chevron, Exxon, etc are all virtually the same quality. Buying your gas from a station that does a good volume of sales is more important as that helps with freshness.

Incidentally, until Exxon developed their own fuel additives, they used to buy Techron from Chevron and add it to their fuels.

FireRanger · #40 05-15-2011, 07:54 PM

I always laughed at the Shell nitrogen enriched commercials. What a joke. It's a detergent, which basically all gas contains. Their marketing of it cleaning a gunked up engine is quite comical.

brinker88 · #41 05-15-2011, 07:57 PM

Im thinking maybe pushrods/rockers...they seem to go out quite frequently on high mile engines. I know mine needs them

rcjwp · #42 05-15-2011, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brinker88

Im thinking maybe pushrods/rockers...they seem to go out quite frequently on high mile engines. I know mine needs them

Ive got 154,000 miles on it...

Badmotorfinger1 · #43 05-16-2011, 11:54 AM

In the case of my engine, you could hear the valve train racket more at idle than under load. The sound difference with the new valve train was amazing after I did a complete top end job.

If you changed out the cylinder heads, you really should have changed out the valve train and pushrods while in the engine. However, I understand if cost was a factor.

brinker88 · #44 05-16-2011, 01:46 PM

Mine has 135000 on it and it needs them

rcjwp · #45 05-16-2011, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badmotorfinger1

In the case of my engine, you could hear the valve train racket more at idle than under load. The sound difference with the new valve train was amazing after I did a complete top end job.

If you changed out the cylinder heads, you really should have changed out the valve train and pushrods while in the engine. However, I understand if cost was a factor.

Cost wasnt really a factor, but I did check the pushrods, and they were fine. I probably should have changed them though...