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  #61  
Old 08-30-2012, 09:44 AM
goosehunta goosehunta is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone

It's a stock 2000 intake. Handful of 98-00 4.0l came with no EGRs
Mine is a 99 and has no egr. Glad too.
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  #62  
Old 08-30-2012, 11:14 AM
JGiddy JGiddy is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
Nope
Good. I don't want to have to take that fucker apart ever again. Removing and reinstalling the crank pulley was such a PITA.

Quote:
Originally Posted by misterb-fx4 View Post
We're actually lucky, 98's are the easiest to convert. Especially if you find a 96/97 Explorer/Mountaineer.

I'm sure you've read this but just incase - http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...er_ranger.html
Yeah I've seen that. But I have a manual, and IIRC you have to go with an auto. Which means I'd also have to get a new carpet and steering column and junk. And I'm 2wd so I'd have no choice but to find one of the uber-rare 2wd 5.0 Mountaineers for the donor vehicle. lol

Last edited by JGiddy; 08-30-2012 at 11:20 AM.
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  #63  
Old 08-31-2012, 09:38 AM
lcplschooley lcplschooley is offline
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Someone's probably asked you already but why spend extra on jba headers if the old manifolds were shitty.... Why not get new manifolds lol.... Unless you have an aftermarket exhaust( didn't notice if you said you did my bad) cause I know summit sells manifolds for like $50 a piece. Either way great job man looks great

99 4.0 4x4 XLT 5 in suspension lift, 3 in body lift 33 in BFG ats,Mickey Thompson classic 2s, spectre cai custom duals w/ fm 40 edlebrock throttle body and spacer screaming demon coil pack autocraft +2 iridiums SS valves jba headers ken wood head unit 4 6x8 Rockford fosgates plus more
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  #64  
Old 09-03-2012, 07:37 AM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

Quote:
Originally Posted by JGiddy View Post
Yeah I've seen that. But I have a manual, and IIRC you have to go with an auto. Which means I'd also have to get a new carpet and steering column and junk. And I'm 2wd so I'd have no choice but to find one of the uber-rare 2wd 5.0 Mountaineers for the donor vehicle. lol
You can run a manual a couple guys have done this. you need an R2 trans which puts the shifter in the stock location. then you would need to computer reflashed for manual 2wd. it can be done



Quote:
Originally Posted by lcplschooley View Post
Someone's probably asked you already but why spend extra on jba headers if the old manifolds were shitty.... Why not get new manifolds lol.... Unless you have an aftermarket exhaust( didn't notice if you said you did my bad) cause I know summit sells manifolds for like $50 a piece. Either way great job man looks great
I have Dual magnaflow exhaust
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #65  
Old 09-04-2012, 04:03 AM
lcplschooley lcplschooley is offline
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Oh I apologize then. How does it sound with those headers?

99 4.0 4x4 XLT 5 in suspension lift, 3 in body lift 33 in BFG ats,Mickey Thompson classic 2s, spectre cai custom duals w/ fm 40 edlebrock throttle body and spacer screaming demon coil pack autocraft +2 iridiums SS valves jba headers ken wood head unit 4 6x8 Rockford fosgates plus more
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  #66  
Old 09-04-2012, 05:20 AM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

About the same actually
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #67  
Old 09-04-2012, 06:18 AM
goosehunta goosehunta is offline
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How does the power feel and have noticed any mpg difference.
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  #68  
Old 09-04-2012, 12:52 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

Better mpg. And yes better power
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #69  
Old 09-04-2012, 02:00 PM
goosehunta goosehunta is offline
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Do you have any experiance or know anyone that has used the 410 camshaft?
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  #70  
Old 09-04-2012, 03:39 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

I do not.
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2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #71  
Old 01-23-2013, 05:58 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

Figured I would do an update if anyone is using this thread to help them rebuild their truck.

at time of rebuild the truck was 153,xxx, I now have 173,000 on the truck.

*First off the truck is running great still no push rod clicking like it used to have so that is an improvement still. and no burning oil.

*After re-sealing the top end of the engine so well, the rear main seal sprung a leak, replaced that, now the oil pan is leaking. Not surprised really with the truck having 173,000 on it.

*I think I posted this already but just encase. USE THE MOTORCRAFT 1 PIECE gasket on the lower intake I had to replace the felpro one with the motorcraft after about a month or something like that because it is total garbage

*Split lock header bolts are crap and dont do what they advertise at all they will still loosen up.

*Seal-4-good header gaskets are crap dont waste your time. so far the best way I have found is use manifold gasket and the spray cooper gasket on them has worked pretty good so far.

*had a bad O2 sensor and fouled out the spark plugs. dont think this had anything to do with the rebuild but more a bad header gasket.
__________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods

Last edited by Redneckstone; 01-23-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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  #72  
Old 04-15-2013, 09:03 PM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

So far oil pan gasket is getting worse. Loosing around .5qt every oil Change on my garage floor. It's getting ridiculous, I am going to have to do Something about it. I would rather rebuild the damn engine again then deal with an engine pan gasket. This should be fun.

Other then that engine is still running good. Just clocked 19-21mpg average on my last highway run. Granted I had the speedo locked on 68-69mph. But not bad for 33x13.5 tires
__________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods

Last edited by Redneckstone; 06-04-2013 at 04:59 AM.
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  #73  
Old 06-02-2013, 09:43 PM
JR2013 JR2013 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 1
Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

great post. You said the plug will tell the story. I have been having chronic misfires in cylinder 3 and the plug always looks white like running lean or perhaps water. If that what you experienced? I am thinking I will be doing this soon. The sad thing is I just replaced the lower intake manifold gasket thinking I may have had a issue with that.
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  #74  
Old 06-03-2013, 05:10 AM
Redneckstone Redneckstone is offline
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Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

Yes that's how mine looked.
__________________
2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 Offroad, 4.0L ext cab, Converted to Manual M5OD-R1HD.
_____________
33x13.50 Toyo M/T, 15x10, Body Lift, Rebuilt OHV, JBA headers, Hurst shifter, Warn VR10000-s, Class 1 bars, Belltech Shackles, Mustang GT rear disc, Level II hooks, Modded rear hitch, Custom front hitch, Level II Blue seats and black console, Explorer IRS rear cover, Extang fulltilt, Leer Cap Yakima Roof Rack, Cobra 29 with firestik stake mount, Scangauge II
Few mods
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  #75  
Old 06-03-2013, 08:49 AM
Saves Saves is offline
huh?
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 510
Default Re: Project Thread - Rebuilding 4.0L OHV

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redneckstone View Post
Now marinate your steaks.... no wait I mean NEW hydraulic roller lifters over night in oil. aka $420 worth of tinny little made in Germany Hitler hell
That made me lol, looks like a job well done. hopefully the new build lasts as long as the original did. looks a little odd though, that the top end can be in such disarray (worn pushrods) yet other parts are still in great working shape like your cylinder walls and what not. hopefully all the clearances in your bottom end are still good.
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